Camaro to Corvette Compatibility

[Wingnut87]

So thanks to you guys, I have identified my problems as a bad rod bearing. :frown: I plan on pulling the engine this weekend and taking it apart. I did manage to find a guy selling an engine close to me. I had a 2000 camaro SS engine and T-56 with computer and harness. This is just an engine with no harness or computer. I plan on using the camaro electronics and computer. Is there anything I should know before I do this? Do I need a reflash? What is the cam learn procedure?


thanks,

Tom

P.S. He says he bought it as a 2002 corvette engine, but when he looked up the block casting number it came up 1999. There is NO EGR in the intake.

[SSpdDmon]

I'd find out for sure which model the motor came out of because it will have different fueling and timing tables due to different head and cam designs, different sized injectors, etc.

[TAQuickness]

need the year too.

You will need to do the case relearn. From the scan tool, Bi-Directional -> CKP Learn, then follow the help file. Shouldn't take more than a few seconds.

[joecar]

Tom,

That was bad news... :bawl:

Any ideas as to what caused it...?
Was there much metal in the pan...?

Joe

[Wingnut87]

Well, I located the knocking cylinder by pulling spark plug wires. I just changed the oil about 2 miles ago and it is dark again with metal dust floating around. I was talking to a machinist and he thought it would be $2500 or so to go throught the block. He seemed to think I could not have done enough damage in the short time it was running, so I assume I got a junk engine. Perhaps the engine was running upside down when it was wreaked? Anyway I found another engine locally. I could be running again soon! Man, this has really become the never ending project.

thanks for your help guys,
Tom

[TAQuickness]

no junk. organ donor

[joecar]

Tom, best of luck with it, let us know how it goes.

[Wingnut87]

Me at 8pm last night.

[Bruce Melton]

There are significant upgrades as in rod bolts and pistons that came in 01-02.
If the engine is a 99 it should have center bolt valve covers.
Just my oppinion but having "lost" a 22k 00 LS1 I would find a newer engine. An LS6 would be nice. Actually I have seen almost new LS2s for ~$2500.
Try Corvetteforum or LS1Tech.
I really dont see an issue running a later engine with an earlier PCM. I am doing it.

[joecar]

Me at 8pm last night.Tom,

Would you rather be anywhere else (you even took time to snap a pic :cheers:).... :D
Love your shop, very nice, wish I had one.... :cheers:

Edit: question, so it wouldn't come out under the car...?

Cheers
Joe
:beer:

[TAQuickness]

Actually, (Fbods) 98's had the perimeter bolts. 99+ went to centerbolt

[Bruce Melton]

Actually, (Fbods) 98's had the perimeter bolts. 99+ went to centerbolt My bad you are right. Perimeters in 97 and 98.

[eboggs_jkvl]

If the engine is a 99 it should have perimeter bolt valve covers.

Confused, am I? I thought the 98s had the perimeter valve covers and the 99+ had the centerbolt covers?

Elmer

[Wingnut87]

I live in a condo and don't have a garage, but I'm fortunate to have a full machine shop at work and a parking lot with tons of space. I started as a machinist in highschool so I'm really the only engineer here who can run all the manual and CNC machines as well as the welders. Too bad I'm not setup to machine this block!

I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, I wasn't planning on having to fix my engine internally. I could get an engine for $1500 or have a machine shop fix mine for $2500. I could also try to find takeoffs from upgrades on ebay. I've seen cranks going for $200 or so. I don't really have money for any of these options and could possibly end up in the same place if I take the cheap road.

[TAQuickness]

you can also get a fully built short block of various displacement for $2500-$3000. Imagine an aluminum 408 in that RX7

[Bruce Melton]

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565603

[Wingnut87]

Sorry, but I can't get that link to work.

[Bruce Melton]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-LS2-Motor-Longblock-Engine-LS1-LS6-LS7_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ011QQitem Z320021230200QQrdZ1QQtcZphoto

[Wingnut87]

http://www.badassperformance.com/misc-vid/

Well, here are all the pics. I just finished cleaning up (can't have everyone come to work with my mess in the shop). I unbolted the cover and first two rods. I diagnosed the first rod as the bad one by pulling plug wires. I guess that method works well. I'm trying to get running again for as little as possible. Perhaps I can get away with a cut crank, new bearings and a new rod? Is there a seal kit available? I know the rear main was leaking. I suppose I should replace the structural bolts I removed as well.

Sorry if I'm getting off topic for the forum. I just thought I'd let everyone know what happened since I started the diagnoses with help from here.

[joecar]

The pic "Staples in oil pickup" is blurred, whatis/wherefrom/howgot that staple in the screen/oil...?

[joecar]

Tom

you have the heater ports capped off on the water pump...
would this be better than joining them (recirculating)...?

Thanks,
Joe

[kbracing96]

Tom, that doesnt look to bad, crank should clean up nicely with a .010 grind. You can have the rods re-sized and put some new bearing in them and a new oil pump and gaskets. You can get all those parts from here www.sdpc2000.com. I'd guess if you put it together, you could have the bottom end rebuilt for less the 6-700 bucks depending on how much parts are. Machine work last I had some done, it was about $100-125 to grind a crank and I think about 8 or 10 buck apiece to re-size rod. I hope that helps.

[Wingnut87]

"Staples in the oil pickup" is refering to some metal the size of a staple gun staple in the pickup screen. Also, my machinist said if the first rod goes, it is due to something in the oil. If it was starvation, the rods would go back to front. I'm going to take the whole engine apart this weekend. I also have a few hours of ebay packing to do (trying to finance this by selling old car parts). I'm still lost on why this happened. I am hoping it was just bad luck, but the metal in the pickup had to come from somewhere. I thought it was a piece of bearing. I guess I'll inspect the valve train and cam bearings while I have the engine out. I don't think it is a needle bearing from the rockers. I really don't want to be in this situation again in a hundred miles.

About the heater water pump outlets. I get mixed info. I heard from others who did my swap that they had to restrict the heater core, because they got too much flow and it bypassed the radiator causing the car to run hot. I've seen those ports blocked on dyno engines. Napa sells "caps" which rot and burst in about a month. I also have an electric pump I'm going to put on later. It looks to me like those ports just bypass the thermostat. The pump comes with the ports plugged. Let me know if you think this is not the case.

thanks again,
Tom

[Wingnut87]

BTW, my plan is to disassemble the engine and have the crank ground. I will then put all new seals, bolts and bearings. I estimate around $700 assuming I don't need a cam bearing and the valvetrain is ok. GM bolts instead of ARP this time around.

[TAQuickness]

Since you're tearing into the engine and have to go thru the labor anyway, you may consider forged internals and/or a stroker. Then again, I have no idea what your budget is either.

[joecar]

About the heater water pump outlets. I get mixed info. I heard from others who did my swap that they had to restrict the heater core, because they got too much flow and it bypassed the radiator causing the car to run hot. I've seen those ports blocked on dyno engines. Napa sells "caps" which rot and burst in about a month. I also have an electric pump I'm going to put on later. It looks to me like those ports just bypass the thermostat. The pump comes with the ports plugged. Let me know if you think this is not the case.Tom,

I don't know which is best (capped or recirculating)... I'm trying to figure this out and learn something.

Joe
:cheers: