Long post by Noobie (who has a clue), but needs advice and assistance.

[markchap]

I have a 2000 Camaro, Z28 with a stock auto tranny. The car is also stock. I wanted to start playing around with tuninig, and while I have no plans to race the car, I do hope to understand this better and maybe point people in the EFILive direction if they want to tune. So far I have been impressed with the software and it's logging abilities, and now I take the next step. :muahaha: Aside from what I say I have changed, the tune there is still stock. The PCM's OS # is: 09381344.
Note: Words in quotes are my guidelines so far, as taken from this forum and various links...
*************************************
"Lean out the PE mode AFR {B3618} a bit to start."
My stock was 11.7 and I changed it to 12.2

"You will also gain some power by adjusting the spark advance. Fuel Mixture Spark correction table {B5908} (for heavy throttle)"
Stock B5980 table is flat - all Zeroes. Is this correct?

This brings up a user EFILive question: (Yes I have read the manuals and the tutorials a while ago, but I forget...) I see other bins that have different data for similar applications - is there a way to compare my table and another table (of the same B5913) that shows the changes only - or even better a list of the differences so I can enter them manually? This could let me "play around" and also still know where I was.

"Under Fuel_Control->Open_&_Closed_Loop there's a little section called LTFT Boundries. The RPM button has 3 settings, which cut up the RPM/MAP histogram used for VE tuning into logical clusters called the Fuel Trim Cells. On some cars, the GM settings are so asinine that they put the second and third value completely beyond the rev limit, making them useless. I like to use them to put the FTC's into logical pieces/clusters: idle, light cruise, passing, WOT. So if your idle is let's say 900rpm, you tool around town under 2500rpm , then i set them to 1200/2500/4000. This way the computer is using a very logically laid out FTC, facilitating quicker and more precise learning. This will make the car behave better in general."
First this is wrong, it's B3809, Engine Calibration/Fuel/Trim/RPM Boundaries for LTFT Cells. And yes my were as assinine as you could get:
Was 2500.6502.6503, and I changed them to 1500,3000.4500.

"Undo the GM marketing department's lame attempts to keep the LS1 from a F-body lower output than the Corvette. Setting the Power Enrichment table universally to 1.15 results in a much more sane (than the overprotective stock) 12.7:1 air-fuel ratio."
My ratio was 11.7. (I use A/F ratio) This one must be a typo - as above it;s now 12.2

"Timing tables. 01-02 cars are _notorious_ for this. They run about 19 degrees of timing at WOT, while 98-00 cars do 29. If you have no problems (read: knock) with the tables from the earlier cars, please flash your tables with them. If you do have problems with knock, or your car just doesn't benefit from the increased timing, go with a stock Z06 timing table. It should gain some power, but at the same time its not wild enough to induce knock."
I presume this means the B5913 and B5914 High and Low Spark Octane Tables? I moved a couple of obvious errors to smooth the graphs (Low 800/.12 changed to 34.0 and High 800/.12v changed to 27, 400/.28-.48 smoothed manually, 600/.28-.36 smoothed manually) but again, I didn't shift anything.

Question: Just shifting the table up 2 or 3 degrees? If it goes too high, the Knock Sensors will correct it, right? In the old days one "tuned for knock" fom max power - it's s till correct today, right?

Question: Why would a Z06 table work - it's a different manifold, heads, etc, or is there this much tolerance in these motors? I presume only the High Octane table, correct?

"Turn the fans on earlier"
{G0901} Fan #1 Turn-on Temp, changed from "226" to "215".
{G0902} Fan #1 Turn-off Temp, changed from "219" to "200".

"First start with reading your stock 02 sensors, and doing some baseline 1/4mi passes or dyno pulls. Aim at .87-.91 all the way through the 1/4."
I didn't do 1/4 miles but at WOT I get averages of .870 and .866.

FYI my LTFT average is from -3.5 to -5.5, my KR never gets above 3.5 (rarely) and I always use 91-93 Octane Sunoco.

"Zero out your IAT RETARD table. This will make a big difference."
My table goes as far as -3.0 at the lower right end. That's not much, and isn't this to prevent hotengine detonation - or (again) will the KS take care of that? :)

"Move your rev limiter up. Tagging the limiter will ruin your pass. I set LS1's at 6600."
Why, you are past the HP TQ peak? I'll leave it at stock for durability.

OK now for transmission tuning...

FIRST - can create and use a "NORMAL"/" PERFORMANCE" switch by adding a momentary SPST from J1 pin 71 to ground on this car, and changing D0409 to ONE SWITCH??? :) Would I have to import tables from a car that had this feature, and if so which ones?

"Keep D0960-2 and D1007-9 at 100%."
D0960, D0961 and D0962 are already all at (stock) 100%

"D1001 and D1004 may be set to 255 (or some high value). This just disables the TCC in 2nd gear, you can leave that as is."
They already are from stock.

"Shift pressures: increase tables D0701, D0702, D0703 by no more than 10%-25% above stock"

EFI QUESTION: Why if my display prescicision is set to 1 places is the cut and paste set to 6? ALSO can cut and paste "capture" the graph scales, too?

Stock paste of D0701:
0.000000 90.000000
0.000000 90.000000
0.000000 90.000000
0.000000 90.000000
0.000000 90.000000
4.000000 90.000000
7.578125 90.000000
11.156250 90.000000
14.734375 90.000000
LINEAR TO:
79.187500 90.000000
82.765625 90.000000
86.343750 90.000000
90.000000 90.000000
90.000000 90.000000
90.000000 90.000000
90.000000 90.000000

If I wanted to, at 10%, then 7.6 would become 8.3 and 86.3 would be 94.5, and 90.0 would be 99.0 - can you go above 90?

"Change desired shift times: reduce tables D1108, D1109, D1110 to around 0.2s-0.3s.";
Stock is from ,45 to .60 - This makes the bands and clutches apply faster only, , by raising pressures, correct?

"Torque reduction: reduce tables D0801, D0802, D0803;
keep reducing these until you start getting tire chirp at 60-80% throttle
on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts (if you can); if you reduce TR any further, then drivetrain will suffer."
D0801 (stock) goes from Zero to 30% from 177 to 325 ft/lbs
and D0802 (stock) from Zero to 30% from 235 to 295 ft/lbs (really steep)
D0803 is already (stock) at Zero.
Any conservative number slope suggestions? On second thought, maybe I'd better leave this alone I want dependability...

I want to move the 4-2 downshift point up (based on MAP or Throttle position) but I don't see a table for that. Do I have to do 4-3 and then 3-2 individually? I don't see a MAP or TP table, only VSS and RPM. Is that the only variables on this tranny? (What no Vacuum Modulator??? )

I see D0906, D0907 and D0908 - are they the ony tables to affect when the tranny "kicks down"? based on TPS? What about D0960, D0961 and D0962, will I have to 'futz' with them too (they use MPH)? is this a one-or-the other set or are they intertwined - they seemingly must be, but I am confused as to the relationship?

Here are my stock numbers for D0907:
12-0% TPS
18
18
19
21
24
27
29
33-50% TPS
36
40
43
46
52
58
66
86-100% TPS

D0908:
25-0% TPS
25
27
29
33
37
43
49
55-50% TPS
64
76
95
108
116
123
132
148-100% TPS

D0960, 61, and 62 are all at (stock) 100%
FYI WOT stock shift speeds (D0925-D0937) are 40, 84, and 148 MPH

Main reason for posting:

If I want to make the downshifting less aggressive, so it downshifts only with additional TPS input, at all speeds, what would I adjust here? Surely there's something to "sense" a dangerous "lugging" condition (If i go too far) is there? If not what would be a pretty drastic change (can I have some table names and numbers please) that I could work back to stock from?

Does ANYTHING need to be done to the UPSHIFT tables if the DOWNSHIFT tables are adjusted as desired above - and if so which ones?

Additionally it would be nice to have the "normal" (part throttle) upshifting be made so it shifts to OD quicker - for better economy, while leaving the near WOT upshifts alone - Which tables would affect this?


I know this is a lot, but this may also be useful to other newbies who may be just getting into this.

Summary: Am I heading in the right direction and can I get some addidtance with my tranny tuning. :master:

Thank you!

MC

[emarkay]

Wow... I have been debating digging into my PCM too, but for now I am just eliminating cat efficiency MILs and a few other things. I posted about the downshifting a while ago and got some general info and left it at that.

Good luck, and PM me if you get lost- While I am not a programmer, I did the documentation editing and if anything looks or seems confusing there, I would like to know so it's resolved for the future!

Also look at LS1.com, LS2.com and LS1TECH.com. (Google LS1 tuning for others) and post here anything you find!

Good luck!

[SSpdDmon]

Well....there sure are a lot of questions. My reply to all of that is, leave it stock for the most part. If you have a few bolt-ons, there's no need to re-engineer the PCM. The guru's at GM had a reason for the way things are and until you get into head & cam swaps, it's pleanty fine. The most I played around with was a little fueling, spark and trans adjustments (aside from the standard setting gears, fans, !DTCs, etc.).

For a stock car, you can go through and re-map the VE and MAF tables with a WBO2 if you have nothing better to do with your time. The car might become a hair more responsive, but I don't think it's worth the effort. Adjusting WOT with a WBO2 should really just stick to the PE table and maybe some generic changes to the MAF table to eliminate any positive fuel trims.

As for spark, you really need a dyno. That way, you can see if the car likes an extra 2* of timing (makes more power on the graph w/o knock retard). If it does, then keep it and maybe try another 2* while keeping an eye out for knock. Chances are, it won't take much more than 2*.

As for the trans, I liked a slightly more responsive feel. So, I shifted the tables up one line. The easiest way to do this is to highlight & copy from the 2nd row to the bottom, click on the cell in the first row and hit paste. The key here is to do this with all of the part throttle shift tables (upshift and downshift). You can also tweak the lockup tables for the TCC since the lockup in 4th is set more for economy than performance. Shift (base) pressures can be increased, but with moderation. I think I added somewhere between 3~5% to the base pressure tables (more for 2 & 3 than 4). You can also decrease shift timing a little...again go a little at a time until you get it where you like it (-5% increments). Don't go too far below .2 as it may cause problems (.18 was my max).

The best feature though is the compare. Assuming you still have your stock tune saved as a different file than the modified tune, you can load both at the same time. You do this by opening the modified tune. Then, click the open folder with the left/right red arrows in the toolbar. Open the stock tune with the new window that comes up. After it loads, click the left/right red arrows next to the folder button you just used. This will show you every calibration that is different from stock. If you want to put any calibration back to stock, click on it in the Compare tab and hit the Update button. :)

[markchap]

Well....there sure are a lot of questions. My reply to all of that is, leave it stock for the most part. If you have a few bolt-ons, there's no need to re-engineer the PCM.

I agree, but it's sort of the "tweaking" I want to play aroud with - especially the tranny.


For a stock car, you can go through and re-map the VE and MAF tables with a WBO2 if you have nothing better to do with your time. The car might become a hair more responsive, but I don't think it's worth the effort. Adjusting WOT with a WBO2 should really just stick to the PE table and maybe some generic changes to the MAF table to eliminate any positive fuel trims.

As for spark, you really need a dyno. That way, you can see if the car likes an extra 2* of timing (makes more power on the graph w/o knock retard). If it does, then keep it and maybe try another 2* while keeping an eye out for knock. Chances are, it won't take much more than 2*.

OK, no WBO2 here, but the FT average and HO2S averages seemn OK - correct?
Will the KR compensate in cases where an added 2 degrees is put "across the board" - most times it won't "kick in", correct?


As for the trans, I liked a slightly more responsive feel. So, I shifted the tables up one line. The easiest way to do this is to highlight & copy from the 2nd row to the bottom, click on the cell in the first row and hit paste. The key here is to do this with all of the part throttle shift tables (upshift and downshift). You can also tweak the lockup tables for the TCC since the lockup in 4th is set more for economy than performance. Shift (base) pressures can be increased, but with moderation. I think I added somewhere between 3~5% to the base pressure tables (more for 2 & 3 than 4). You can also decrease shift timing a little...again go a little at a time until you get it where you like it (-5% increments). Don't go too far below .2 as it may cause problems (.18 was my max).

Actually economy and longevity of the car are my goals, but I see what you mean - Increasing shift timing seems harmles, correct, but I do want to get "squared away" on which tables to play with to get rid of that annoying kick down!


The best feature though is the compare. Assuming you still have your stock tune saved as a different file than the modified tune, you can load both at the same time. You do this by opening the modified tune. Then, click the open folder with the left/right red arrows in the toolbar. Open the stock tune with the new window that comes up. After it loads, click the left/right red arrows next to the folder button you just used. This will show you every calibration that is different from stock. If you want to put any calibration back to stock, click on it in the Compare tab and hit the Update button. :)

Will try that - I hav seen a few related tunes that I want to compare to.

THANKS!

[markchap]

Going to be getting back to this, still a bit confused.

EFI QUESTION: Why if my display prescicision is set to 1 places is the cut and paste set to 6 places?
ALSO can cut and paste "capture" the graph's scales, too?

For the Engine,
Just shifting the High Octane table up 2 or 3 degrees is a good start? If it goes too high, the Knock Sensors will correct it, right?
In the old days one "tuned for knock" fom max power - it's s till correct today, right?
A suggestion was to "Zero out your IAT RETARD table. This will make a big difference."
My table goes as far as -3.0 at the lower right end. That's not much, and isn't this to prevent hot engine detonation - or (again) will the KS take care of that?

For the "kickdown, I see D0906, D0907 and D0908 - are they the ony tables to affect when the tranny "kicks down" based on TPS?
What about D0960, D0961 and D0962, will I have to 'futz' with them too (they use MPH)? is this a one-or-the other set or are they intertwined - they seemingly must be, but I am confused as to the relationship?
I want to move the 4-2 downshift point up (based on MAP or Throttle position) but I don't see a table for that. Do I have to do 4-3 and then 3-2 individually?
I don't see a MAP or TP table, only VSS and RPM. Is that the only variables on this tranny?

Thanks again

[SSpdDmon]

Cut and paste precision will always be 6 decimals.

Cut and paste won't capture the graphs. You can "copy with labels" and paste that into something like Excel to give you the x and y axis labels along with the data.

Increasing the high octane table 2~3 degrees across the board isn't something I'd recommend. Beyond .36 grams/cyl and 2,000rpm, you could try to blend in a degree or two. But, I'd really leave this stock. Most of the power made by going from a stock tune to a modified tune on a stock car comes from leaning out the AFR. For this, you really need a wideband. As for the knock sensors, they're there for preventative measures, which means you really don't want to see them come on. They move the octane scaler if they report a signal frequently enough. The scaler determines the spark by looking to the high and low octane tables. If the knock sensors go off too much, the scaler will point more to the low octane table and you'll end up losing more over all. Stock timing with the stock cam is fine.

For the trans, the tables I mentioned above are what you "futz" with. The trans primarily looks at the TPS% and the VSS. For example, D0901 is the 1>2 shift. When you first start moving, the more throttle you give it, the more you slide down the table. Say you had 25mph listed at 50% throttle. That means the PCM won't command the trans to go from first to second until you're over 25mph at 50% throttle. Looking at D0906 (2>1), say you have 15mph for 50% throttle. This means the PCM will not command the trans to shift from second to first at 50% throttle unless you're under 15mph. Since that's how these tables work together, it's important to keep the following relationships:
D0901<D0902<D0903
D0906<D0907<D0908
AND
D0901>D0906, D0902>D0907, D0903>D0908

Based on the throttle position and current MPH, the PCM will pick the gear accordingly. This is where you adjust for your 4>2.

Slightly increasing base pressures, reducing desired shift times, playing with the TCC lockup and setting WOT RPM shift points is the only other tables you really need to futz with. The TCC tables act just like the part throttle shift speed tables. The others are pretty self explanitory.

I still stand by the fact that less is more on a stock car. No need to re-invent the wheel...