AFR Question

[shallow bay]

I just finished installing both a LC-1 and DynoTune wideband gauge in my car and now I have a question. What is the normal AFR you should see at idle? My car has a couple of bolt-ons (lid, ported throttle body, long tubes, true duals) and it's currently running in open loop. I let the car reach full operating temperature and while the commanded was 14.37, both the gauge and EFILive read around 16.37. I double checked the intake and exhaust for leaks but I didn't find any. I then performed another free air calibration to see if it would make a difference but it didn't. Would a couple of bolt-ons really make it run that lean at idle or is un-metered air getting in somewhere? Any help is appreciated.

[purrvert]

Possible. Set up for auto-tune, log base efficiency numerator for you LC1, adjust your VE table.

[Tordne]

Did you follow the tutorial for setting up the LC-1 with EFILive - making the output voltages etc as expected by the LC-1 PIDs?

That would be the first thing I'd ask.. You need to be satisfied that it is setup correctly, then calibrated I guess, BEFORE there is any point proceeding to tune the car.

If after that you are still running lean at idle I'd add a % to the VE table to give you a more safe starting point.

Out of interest what are the AFR's like off idle, if you've logged them?

[1998ws6]

Force the car closed loop, and make sure they read around 14.6x

Ryan

[shallow bay]

Possible. Set up for auto-tune, log base efficiency numerator for you LC1, adjust your VE table.
I have already set up an open loop, speed density tune and flashed it into the PCM. I just want to make sure everything is correct before I go for a drive and start logging.


Did you follow the tutorial for setting up the LC-1 with EFILive - making the output voltages etc as expected by the LC-1 PIDs?

That would be the first thing I'd ask.. You need to be satisfied that it is setup correctly, then calibrated I guess, BEFORE there is any point proceeding to tune the car.

If after that you are still running lean at idle I'd add a % to the VE table to give you a more safe starting point.

Out of interest what are the AFR's like off idle, if you've logged them?
I followed the AutoVE tuning tutorial in EFILive. Here's how I programed the output voltages:

a. 0.883 Volt at AFR: 10.00
b. 4.216 Volt at AFR: 20.00

Is that correct? I don't think it's a calibration problem because I have already tried calibrating it a couple of times with no change. How much do you suggest I add to the VE table? Unfortunately, I only let the car idle until it reached full operating temperature and then shut it off. So, I have no idea where the AFR is elsewhere.


Force the car closed loop, and make sure they read around 14.6x

Ryan
That's going to be a problem, both O2 sensors were throwing insufficient switching codes when I removed them which forced the car into open loop all of the time. I ended up cutting both wiring harnesses and using them as a power and ground source for my LC-1.

[TAQuickness]

I ended up cutting both wiring harnesses and using them as a power and ground source for my LC-1.

That could be part of your problem. The LC-1 is very particular to the ground you use. I ended up running a power and ground directly to the battery, but used a relay controlled by the O2 sensor wiring to handle switching the LC-1 on and off.

[shallow bay]

Before I started the car for the first time after installing the LC-1, I did the following:

- Opened LogWorks
- Selected the Analog Out 2 tab
- Programed both voltages to the same value
- Opened the EFILive scan tool and monitored the {EXT.AD1} pid

I changed the voltages around three different times and each time they were only off by 0.03. For example, When I programed both voltages to 2.5, the actual was 2.47. I thought this meant that my grounds wires were properly grounded? Am I wrong?