Need some help with MAF....

[Loudmouth LS1]

I did the best I could with the autove and got the idle the best I could, put the maf back on and used the map for the maf and it seems to have leaned it out more, especially at idle, seein high 15's afr now, and can't seem to figure out wot tuning, cuz I did used the map and went wot a few times, not for long though, cuz I saw it goin in the 14's and 15's and let out, I have it set in pe vs rpm table to 12.9, how do I dial in the maf so I get the right a/f @ wot, any help is appreciated cuz I got a race comin up friday and am tryin to finish up the motor tune so I can drop some timing and test out the spray with the new tune! Also, the SES light will flash every now and then and the only code is that stupid instrument panel cluster code and forget the other one, but it's from swappin to an '02 OS and Chad said those codes get thrown on some cars, but that it shouldn't trip the light, so how the hell do I get the light to stop flashing? Not all the time, just sometimes.

PS - I have a NX MAF kit on the car that I borrowed from a buddy, so I think the ends on them are ported, but not sure.

Edit: Just went out and read the codes, it's C0245 - EBCM Control Valve Circuit & U1000 - Class 2 Data Link

[Rhino79]

Make a map like the Autove map except, copy and paste the MAF calibration table over (with labels) and use your base efficiency numerator just like you would to AutoVE. You will get the MAF nailed down this way and you commanded and actual will be much much closer when you are done.

[Loudmouth LS1]

Make a map like the Autove map except, copy and paste the MAF calibration table over (with labels) and use your base efficiency numerator just like you would to AutoVE. You will get the MAF nailed down this way and you commanded and actual will be much much closer when you are done.

That's what I did, and it got leaner each time, which is why I asked on here what to do, cuz now i'm a little stumpt.

[Rhino79]

What were your BENs? I have had to scale up the MAF table as much as 25% in the upper and mid areas to get A/F down from mid 15's to 12.9.

[Rhino79]

Try unplugging the MAF and running it WOT to check your AFR that way, just to make sure that the VE is in line. If so it probably just needs some serious MAF tuning.

[Loudmouth LS1]

Try unplugging the MAF and running it WOT to check your AFR that way, just to make sure that the VE is in line. If so it probably just needs some serious MAF tuning.

If i'm not mistaken, the VE should not even be used past 4000 rpm when the maf is hooked up unless there is a maf failure, so I definately need maf tuning! But when I did the autove, I dialed in my wot a little bit, just in case of maf failure, it wasn't very far off.

[Loudmouth LS1]

What were your BENs? I have had to scale up the MAF table as much as 25% in the upper and mid areas to get A/F down from mid 15's to 12.9.

Most of the part throttle wasn't very far off at all, the wot was like 1.10 - 1.14 on the bens and didn't change anything when I made the changes.

[Rhino79]

What values are the MAF tables at in those areas?

[Loudmouth LS1]

What values are the MAF tables at in those areas?

In the 200's

[Rhino79]

A cammed and bolt-on SS Camaro I tuned the other night ranged from 8625-9875 hz and values were from 217 to 310.