please...recommend tranny shop

[94burban]

Please help….

The victim is a 94 Chevy Suburban, with 160,700 miles, 350 tbi, 4l60e and completely stock. Just picked it up about 2 months ago and surprise the tranny is gone. Since I plan on towing about 7000#, (a couple times per year) I was looking for a tranny that will hold up. Could you guys recommend an online store? I found Pro-Built Automatics online but don’t know much about them.

I’ve never rebuilt a tranny before, but is it really difficult? I’ve rebuilt to small blocks in the past but was thinking that with both ATSG rebuild book and technical dvd, I’ll be able to rebuild it myself.

Or for you local guys, could you recommend a good transmission shop in south Florida, I prefer Dade or Broward County but willing to go to Palm Beach county if I have to.

So far I’ve been to 3 shops and I’m not impressed. 2 of them are asking $1000, the 3rd on wouldn’t even tell me. I asked for a price on a complete rebuild and he tells me…he has to look at it first.

Thanks

[Ira]

I disassembled and re-assembled a C4 back in high school. Wasn't to bad other than a few special tools you'll need and a place to assemble it that's really clean. In those days the most important part was not losing the balls and springs or their places in the valve body.

Ira

[joecar]

You'll need both ATSG manuals, as the second one has info pertaining to newer updated parts/procedures.

As Ira said: a few special tools (clutch spring compressor(s) and seal installation/protection tools) and a very clean bench.

[joecar]

I've done a C4 and a few others a long time ago...

These were much simpler than the 4L60E... but the 4L60E is still quite doable and the procedures are the same, and no more difficult then engine building.

There are a few other things such as:
- cleaning all hard parts and case very thoroughly and meticulously inspecting for wear/damage; also inspect new replacement parts;
- reading various forums to determine what parts you want to ungrade (bigger 2nd/4th servos, toughened sun shell, 5-pinion gearsets, wider band, better clutches, alum. accum. piston, ...);
- soaking all seals/rings/clutches/band/washers in AFT and/or coating with transgel (petrolatum) prior to assembly;
- cleanliness, preventing dust and other meterial/objects from getting into your work, periodically air-hosing, washing new parts prior to soaking in ATF;
- careful handling of seals/rings so that they are not damaged during installation;
- checking fit/clearance of assembled clutch packs, too much/little clearance is bad;
- air compressor allows you to test clutch packs, servo, valves before and after installation;
- keeping all valves/springs/checkballs from valve body in the correct order/orientation at all times (I used to have "fanfolded" square sheet of light gauge alum. where I lined up each valvetrain on a separate fold);
- testing solenoids prior to installation;
- check/recheck your work;

Get a new converter, and flush out the cooler and cooler lines; don't let dirt/fragments from these take out your new work.

There's some links on ls1tech.com and a few other forums showing pics of progress.

The local community colleges have night classes (and the special tools).

[94burban]

Thanks for the input...

I check out the site you recommended. Also, the school at night....

Thanks again

[94burban]

Getting close to doing the rebuild....
Now I need a converter. The SUV will be used for long trips and occasionally tow about 3000 to 5000# max. Some have recommended Dacco, Fuddle, Pro Torque and Yank(too expensive for my application) Could you guys recommend one. All stock motor, will bolt on headers, exhaust, ignition and mod the tbi. 10 bolt rear end with 3.42.......