View Full Version : Need Help with V2 and PLX M250
Chalky
March 8th, 2007, 11:24 AM
I am sure I did something wrong but:
Finally got V2 loaded. Started car today and cannot get BEN map to show anything but 1.55. Seems like it is not reading wb02.
ANy suggestions?
dc_justin
March 8th, 2007, 12:23 PM
I am sure I did something wrong but:
Finally got V2 loaded. Started car today and cannot get BEN map to show anything but 1.55. Seems like it is not reading wb02.
ANy suggestions?
Need a bit more information... Have you probed the voltage coming off of the WB? How do you have it configured with the external inputs?
Chalky
March 8th, 2007, 01:42 PM
Just got back from store after buying new Multimeter. (Has not been a good winter for batteries).
Wiring to V2 is right. White is power, red/black is ground.
Doc
March 8th, 2007, 02:28 PM
Justin is going down the right path...Force the controller to put out 2, 5 vdc and record the values. If you have decent (+/-.01vdc) then you can assume that the logic chip is functioning for programing and the DAC is putting out ok, so then the only culprit left is the sensor it'self. I personally have seen sensors do wierd, wacky things when thru either age, or a direct hit(whoops) the glass bead pump cell develops a crack and gives wacky readings. The worst culprit lasted / screwed with me for what seemed like an eternity ( a week) where the sensor would report good stoich but the higher exhaust load/pressure, ie. WOT would give super high piston melting lean readings, without those results of course. The thing that mislead me was the age of the sensor(~6 months actual run time over an elapsed 1 1/2 year) and not having knowingly dropped/banged the sensor... I guess eventually the crack developed from the heat cycles/wear/use that lead to these symptoms. Luckily, now I have multiple known good sensors on hand for such shotgun troubleshooting/ narrowing down functions. For those of you who don't have a known good spare on hand...get one it, it can save time.
Chalky
March 8th, 2007, 04:27 PM
Justin is going down the right path...Force the controller to put out 2, 5 vdc and record the values. If you have decent (+/-.01vdc) then you can assume that the logic chip is functioning for programing and the DAC is putting out ok, so then the only culprit left is the sensor it'self. I personally have seen sensors do wierd, wacky things when thru either age, or a direct hit(whoops) the glass bead pump cell develops a crack and gives wacky readings. The worst culprit lasted / screwed with me for what seemed like an eternity ( a week) where the sensor would report good stoich but the higher exhaust load/pressure, ie. WOT would give super high piston melting lean readings, without those results of course. The thing that mislead me was the age of the sensor(~6 months actual run time over an elapsed 1 1/2 year) and not having knowingly dropped/banged the sensor... I guess eventually the crack developed from the heat cycles/wear/use that lead to these symptoms. Luckily, now I have multiple known good sensors on hand for such shotgun troubleshooting/ narrowing down functions. For those of you who don't have a known good spare on hand...get one it, it can save time.
Got a chance to check my power supply and power supply is OK @ 12 v. It was to late to start car but I put power to EFLIve and 02 sensor. I ended up with a rwading of 7 volts dc from 02 sensor back to EFILive.
Does this seem right?
My wb was working when I had V1 installed. I am stumped as to why my I am not getting a reading form my wb now.
dc_justin
March 8th, 2007, 04:39 PM
Got a chance to check my power supply and power supply is OK @ 12 v. It was to late to start car but I put power to EFLIve and 02 sensor. I ended up with a rwading of 7 volts dc from 02 sensor back to EFILive.
Does this seem right?
My wb was working when I had V1 installed. I am stumped as to why my I am not getting a reading form my wb now.
Sounds like you need to calibrate the V2's external inputs. Connect to the V2 unit with the scan tool, then hit Ctrl+F11 and follow the directions on that screen. Should bring things right in line.
Chalky
March 8th, 2007, 04:45 PM
Justin:
Thanks, I'll try it in the morning. Is this info common knowledge or something I failed to read?
:nixweiss:
dc_justin
March 8th, 2007, 04:46 PM
Justin:
Thanks, I'll try it in the morning. Is this info common knowledge or soemthing I failed to read?
:nixweiss:
I'm not really sure. I try to be as informed about the hardware/software as I can be, so I found it during my exploration, but I'm not sure where it is posted.
Chalky
March 8th, 2007, 04:52 PM
Thanks. I guess I need to get back in the game. I ind of lost interest once Winter set in.
Thanks again for the tip!!
pkincy
March 11th, 2007, 04:01 PM
Calibrate the inputs with a known voltage source.
Read a battery with the multimeter and use it for the input and calibrate the input you are using on V2.
Perry
Chalky
March 11th, 2007, 04:45 PM
According to PLX, the unit failed. I had an SM-AFR as a backup. Installed it today and all is well again!!
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