Installing shift light using comp to control it, need some help....

[Loudmouth LS1]

Hey guys, we just picked up an '04 GTO to add to the family, and i've almost got everything done, just gotta tap into pin 47 on the comp, but I can't figure out how to get the stupid gray cover off the pcm plug to see what the pin #'s are, any help is appreciated, thanks!!! And when it's done, i'll put up some pics, it's super sweet how I have it setup!!!

Also, I pulled the connector furthest from the engine and it's green, not red like the other thread says, is that normal, maybe just diff colors in the states?

[SSpdDmon]

There's several tabs (like 4 or 5) that you need to squeeze towards the center. They have a triangular tip like most of the other connectors on the car.

[Loudmouth LS1]

There's several tabs (like 4 or 5) that you need to squeeze towards the center. They have a triangular tip like most of the other connectors on the car.

Yeah, I ended up gettin it off, the screw wouldn't come out and was holdin it on, there was a little thing at the bottom that held the screw from coming out, couldn't get it off, so I cut it so the screw would come out. I didn't get to finish (sucks, but whatever) cuz I was kind of hoping there was already a pin and wire coming out of 47, but there wasn't, so i'm gonna have to order the pin and finish another day, everything else is complete, just left the wire in the engine bay till I get the pin. Any idea where to get it? Can I get it local from the dealer or have to order it online? I can't wait to put up some pics of it, this is the street car, so i'm goin for the subtle, factory stock, everything hidden look, and the way i'm settin it up is gonna be so sweet!!!! There's 8 little holes (2 rows of 4) on the gauge cluster cover piece, and I found a super bright (lit up my entire bedroom in the dark, hahah) led light strip that is 2 rows of 4 with the bulbs in the perfect spot to fit in each one of those holes, it's almost like that spot was made for what i'm doin!!!! :rockon:

[SSpdDmon]

Yeah, I ended up gettin it off, the screw wouldn't come out and was holdin it on, there was a little thing at the bottom that held the screw from coming out, couldn't get it off, so I cut it so the screw would come out. I didn't get to finish (sucks, but whatever) cuz I was kind of hoping there was already a pin and wire coming out of 47, but there wasn't, so i'm gonna have to order the pin and finish another day, everything else is complete, just left the wire in the engine bay till I get the pin. Any idea where to get it? Can I get it local from the dealer or have to order it online? I can't wait to put up some pics of it, this is the street car, so i'm goin for the subtle, factory stock, everything hidden look, and the way i'm settin it up is gonna be so sweet!!!! There's 8 little holes (2 rows of 4) on the gauge cluster cover piece, and I found a super bright (lit up my entire bedroom in the dark, hahah) led light strip that is 2 rows of 4 with the bulbs in the perfect spot to fit in each one of those holes, it's almost like that spot was made for what i'm doin!!!! :rockon:
Sweet. I just put mine in last weekend (Harlan Shift light) just like the www.installuniversity.com (http://www.installuniversity.com) write-up. :)

http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_graphics/sophomore_year/shift_light/shift_light_on.jpg

[cme265]

yes, your local dealership SHOULD have the pin you need, whether or not the'll give you one is a different deal......

[Loudmouth LS1]

Sweet. I just put mine in last weekend (Harlan Shift light) just like the www.installuniversity.com (http://www.installuniversity.com) write-up. :)

http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_graphics/sophomore_year/shift_light/shift_light_on.jpg

Sweet, I am doing it this way, cuz it was basically free, and I don't wanna spend a lot of money on the goat cuz i'm trying to get money together to do a turbo project on the Z28, I beat up a couple pistons a couple weeks ago when it decided to just randomly burn 2 plugs, so i'm not goin back through the motor to go the same speed, so it's time to step into forced induction!!! Sucks too, cuz I was on my way to a new best, went 118 mph through the 1/8th and burnt the plugs some time after that, still went a new best (ran it all the way to the 1/4 cuz it had no signs of the burnt plugs, sounded smooth the whole way), but not as good as it should've, went a 9.41 @ 143, she usually gains 29 mph out the back door, so that probably would've been in the 9.2's @ 147 or so!!!

[Loudmouth LS1]

yes, your local dealership SHOULD have the pin you need, whether or not the'll give you one is a different deal......

Why wouldn't they?

[cme265]

would probably take 15-20 minutes to find it, there is a lot of pins in those boxes..let me see if i can find a part # for it, would make things easier with it when you went in

[Loudmouth LS1]

would probably take 15-20 minutes to find it, there is a lot of pins in those boxes..let me see if i can find a part # for it, would make things easier with it when you went in

Thanks bro, appreciate it!

[joecar]

cme265, welcome to the forum. :cheers:

[cme265]

thank you joecar......well, i have the connector part #, but no pin #...i might be able to stop by work tommorrow and check, if not i"ll look on monday

[Loudmouth LS1]

thank you joecar......well, i have the connector part #, but no pin #...i might be able to stop by work tommorrow and check, if not i"ll look on monday

K, thanks! Quick question, in case I get a chance to stop by the dealer, what is the actual technical term for the pin i'm lookin for, I don't wanna go in there and be like I need a pin for the pcm connector on an '04 goat and them be like what or which one, or totally not know what i'm talkin about.

[cme265]

you need a "terminal" for the ecm connector, "pin" should work, just tell them what you are doing and you should be good to go..

[Garry]

This is what you need I reckon ...

[Loudmouth LS1]

This thing is awesome, it's all working, light goes on (super bright) when I hit set shift point, but for some reason it's staying dimly lit at all times, assuming the pin 47 is sending a small bit of ground at all times, how can I fix this? My buddy put a 2.2k resistor or something like that in it last night to try and fix it, and it didn't work, what do you guys suggest? Thanks for the help and after I get it working perfect, i'll take a small vid of it.

[Garry]

First try might be a voltage divider, maybe 1k before the light and 10k in parallel? Better solution might be something with a transistor, ensuring a minimum voltage to switch on the light ... anyway, this was asked before, don't remember if there was a solution posted ...

[Loudmouth LS1]

First try might be a voltage divider, maybe 1k before the light and 10k in parallel? Better solution might be something with a transistor, ensuring a minimum voltage to switch on the light ... anyway, this was asked before, don't remember if there was a solution posted ...

I don't know a lot about electrical stuff, so not sure really what you just said, haha, what about putting the power on a relay and tapping the wire from the pcm to ground it, the relay shouldn't click to give power till it has a full/strong ground, right?

[Garry]

Yes. Make sure you get an automotive relay that will for one survive the voltages (12-14V) ... apart from that, the relay should require something like 6-8V to engage ... downside is the slight delay before it activates, though I reckon it should be a fraction of a second ... If you're worried about the noise (yeah, right, as if anyone would be able to hear a relay at 5000+ RPM), there are micro-relays that are hard to hear even in low noise environments ...

[Loudmouth LS1]

Yes. Make sure you get an automotive relay that will for one survive the voltages (12-14V) ... apart from that, the relay should require something like 6-8V to engage ... downside is the slight delay before it activates, though I reckon it should be a fraction of a second ... If you're worried about the noise (yeah, right, as if anyone would be able to hear a relay at 5000+ RPM), there are micro-relays that are hard to hear even in low noise environments ...

Cool, so let me just make sure i'm gonna do this correctly, i'll put the power out to the light from pin 87, then i'll put the switched power in to 30 and another switched power to 86 and tap into the wire goin to the other side of the light from the pcm and put that in 85, right?

Thanks again for all the help!

[Garry]

Not sure which pin is which right now (without looking it up), but:

- 12V to one side of the Relay switch input
- the PCM pin that signals the shift light to the other
- 12V on one of the switched output
- + Side of the shift light on the other
- Ground side of the shift light to the car ground

That should do it ...

[Loudmouth LS1]

Not sure which pin is which right now (without looking it up), but:

- 12V to one side of the Relay switch input
- the PCM pin that signals the shift light to the other
- 12V on one of the switched output
- + Side of the shift light on the other
- Ground side of the shift light to the car ground

That should do it ...

I set it up the way I said in my post above, and it works perfect, this is sweet!