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RacerChris
June 6th, 2007, 08:45 AM
I have been tuning with AutoVe for a few days now and my tune is definately getting alot cleaner but I can-not get away from my idle problems. My problem is that when I go into gear (forward or reverse) or when I come to a stop my engine always dies. It has gotten a bit better since Auto VE but the problem is still there and it makes it very hard to tune Auto VE acurately in the 400-800 RPM Cells because I have to keep my foot on the gas and brake to keep it going.
Any suggestions?
BTW, My engine has an SLP lid, smooth belowes, Granateli MAF, 60lb injectors, MSD Coils/wires, NGK plugs (2 steps colder than stock), Comp Cams Cam 222/224 @ .050 W/ .566/.568 lift on 112 degree lobe sep, Comp Cams 1.8:1 Roller rockers, Dynatech Stainless Header System, and Flowmaster cat-back. I am running COS 5 also.
Thanks in advance!

ViolatorTA
June 6th, 2007, 09:15 AM
Have you tried this thread? http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=149

There are more on idle tuning, just do a search in the general section and this section.

I've been finding things on here that I missed while I was out of the "Tuning my car" loop that helped.

RacerChris
June 6th, 2007, 10:48 AM
Thank you for the reply ViolatorTA!
I will read the threads and post if it helped.

ViolatorTA
June 6th, 2007, 10:54 AM
No problem. Let us know.

SSpdDmon
June 6th, 2007, 11:20 AM
What is your base timing in gear set at for idle vs. your base spark in park/neutral???

Have you done the RAFIG and the RAFPN process???

Are you running the stock converter???

What RPMs are you idling at???

vatman02
June 6th, 2007, 11:27 AM
i had the same issue when i put my stock manifold back on nothing i tried worked but this (but i only changed B5932) if all else fails do this



Then I saw this post/thread LS1Tech by P Mack. I tried it and inactivated "Stall Saver". Works like a charm.

here's how to fix rpms dipping when coming to a stop
I feel stupid that I never tried this before. I had my idle airflow tables pretty much dead on and my ve table was damn close. But still when doing parking lot maneuvering and coming off the gas and putting the clutch in, my rpms would drop. It severely pissed me off that I could watch my rpms sit at 300 rpm and never recover while rolling and my IAC/idle trims just sat there like they didn't care. As soon as I came to a stop the IAC would jump into action, but with any speed at all it wouldn't respond. Seems to me that the idle feedback loop should kick in depending on throttle position, not speed. But enough ranting, here is the solution. You have to trick the car into using the timing to recover from rpm dips instead since the IAC won't do it for you. You can do this by making the timing at rpms below your idle (400, 600, maybe 800) higher than the timing at your idle rpm. This applies to the main and base spark tables.

For example, the stock main spark table has 19, 22, and 27 degrees of advance for 400, 600, and 800 rpm. So when you're rolling at 5 mph and the rpms dip, the lower the rpms get, the lower your timing gets. Change it to 35, 30, 25 and like magic no more dipping. Bonus: you shouldn't even need to change your idle airflow tables if you only change the timing at rpms below your idle speed.

Cliff notes: more timing below idle rpm in main and base spark tables

vatman02
June 6th, 2007, 11:37 AM
oh you have automatic not sure if it will work the same but if all else fails why not try it it may not address the cause but it got rid of my head ache

The Alchemist
June 6th, 2007, 12:25 PM
I've just done this on a customers car today with the new cam we have installed. Timing during idle transition was dipping into the 12's on the base and main spark map.
Thru in 20 degrees at the 400 & 800 rpm at loads up to 0.52 and no more stalling :)
Mike


"For example, the stock main spark table has 19, 22, and 27 degrees of advance for 400, 600, and 800 rpm. So when you're rolling at 5 mph and the rpms dip, the lower the rpms get, the lower your timing gets. Change it to 35, 30, 25 and like magic no more dipping. Bonus: you shouldn't even need to change your idle airflow tables if you only change the timing at rpms below your idle speed.

Cliff notes: more timing below idle rpm in main and base spark tables[/quote]"

RacerChris
June 6th, 2007, 04:23 PM
What is your base timing in gear set at for idle vs. your base spark in park/neutral???

Have you done the RAFIG and the RAFPN process???

Are you running the stock converter???

What RPMs are you idling at???

I have not done the RAFIG or RAFPN process' yet, I am running the stock converter but I am upgrading in about a month to a 3000 stall converter, and I am idleing at 675 up from 550. I adjusted it to try to fix the problem but it didnt help much. Should I switch back to 550?
One last thing.... How to I take a screenshot of my tiing tables so that I can post a pic of it in the forum for you to see and also how do I go about posting the pic?
Thanks again!

RacerChris
June 6th, 2007, 04:25 PM
I've just done this on a customers car today with the new cam we have installed. Timing during idle transition was dipping into the 12's on the base and main spark map.
Thru in 20 degrees at the 400 & 800 rpm at loads up to 0.52 and no more stalling :)
Mike


"For example, the stock main spark table has 19, 22, and 27 degrees of advance for 400, 600, and 800 rpm. So when you're rolling at 5 mph and the rpms dip, the lower the rpms get, the lower your timing gets. Change it to 35, 30, 25 and like magic no more dipping. Bonus: you shouldn't even need to change your idle airflow tables if you only change the timing at rpms below your idle speed.

Cliff notes: more timing below idle rpm in main and base spark tables"[/quote]

I will try this and see what happens tomorro... I will let you guys know as soon as I do.
Thanks again!

SSpdDmon
June 6th, 2007, 11:34 PM
I have not done the RAFIG or RAFPN process' yet, I am running the stock converter but I am upgrading in about a month to a 3000 stall converter, and I am idleing at 675 up from 550. I adjusted it to try to fix the problem but it didnt help much. Should I switch back to 550?
One last thing.... How to I take a screenshot of my tiing tables so that I can post a pic of it in the forum for you to see and also how do I go about posting the pic?
Thanks again!
If you're not idling below a MAP of 60kPa, your idle is set too low. You may have to try 750~800rpm. The bitch is going to be that stock converter slamming the drivetrain when you put it in gear. That's the main reason why I don't suggest running a cam on the stock converter. You might be able to soften that up in the Trans folders though.

To take a screen shot, you hit Print Screen, open up MSPaint, and then Ctrl+V to paste the image. You may have to resize or use only a portion of the picture and save it as a jpeg in order to meet the maximum size requirements of the forum. You can include it in your post when you do an advanced reply under Manage Attachments.

RacerChris
June 7th, 2007, 08:01 AM
Well I changed my base timing for in gear and neutral while at idle and that seemed to have helped alot but I still die when going from neutral to drive and now I am getting spark retard due to knock. I think I am going to wait on trying to cure this problem untill my converter comes in and then I will do the RAFIG, and RAFPN processes as well as readjust my base timing.
Thanks a ton though guys for pointing me in the right direction!:cheers:

RacerChris
June 11th, 2007, 07:07 AM
Well I couldnt wait to start playing with the RAFIG & RAFPN processes so instead of waiting another 3-4 days for my converter I went ahead and tested it out. All I can say is WOW!!!!! What a difference in my idle issues!!! I have only gone through the process through warm-up in gear once and then a few more times in gear while it was hot but it has made a huge difference!!! No more stalling going into drive, even with the stock converter and my cam! I have even been able to drop my idle a bit more due to the difference.

I have a question though..... Does anyone have any advise on how to get the engine cooler quicker but in a safe way?

Thanks again guys for the help!

SSpdDmon
June 11th, 2007, 07:54 AM
Drive up on rhino ramps, raise hood and run some fans. You don't want to hose it down if that's what you're asking. ;)

RacerChris
June 11th, 2007, 04:39 PM
Drive up on rhino ramps, raise hood and run some fans. You don't want to hose it down if that's what you're asking. ;)

Well I wasnt going to go that far but I do admit if I were a few years younger it might have crossed my mind!:eek:
The answer you gave was pretty much what I was looking for, I figured using a fan but I didnt think about putting it on ramps as well.
Thanks again!