Please help; critique my tune

[farmdawg]

I really need some help to get my tune squared away, could someone please take a look and make suggestions to help me out?

I tried to adjust the idle and got no response, I know that the fuel tables are off when the boost kicks in, it goes VERY RICH, I'm also thinking that the timing is off, I think it would run better with less timing, what do you all think??

[mr.prick]

1834
i can see why you are rich.

i`m gonna guess you didn`t auto tune yet.

[Doc]

Could you please post up more details about the setup.

[onfire]

Are you running cos5?

38 degrees of timing with a Maggie at wot is asking for a big BOOM.

The VE table needs to be set first with auto VE....read the tutorial for a ggod start.

The PE set at 1 at all rpms is asking for a big BOOM.

If you're not comfortable with all the issues of tuning, buy a starter tune from Chad at Greenlight to get a safe base to start with.

You'll need a wideband also either way.

[joecar]

First, set each of the following to some in-range value:
A0001
A0002
A0012
A0013
D0701
D0703

[joecar]

The PE set at 1 at all rpms is asking for a big BOOM. He's got B3647 set to sufficiently cover this, so he should be ok with this.

But, you're right, it's better to have a PE table just in case... ;)

I agree, he need's a AutoVE tune.

[joecar]

B3913 HO timing table is not good, too high, as onfire said;
B3914 LO timing table could be lower;
:)

[farmdawg]

For those that are asking here is the specifics on my setup:

2002 Camaro SS A4 Stage 2 with a Fuddle 3400 stall
Forged 347cuin built to handle 300 shot of N2O
243 Casting heads ported and machined out to 72cc chambers flowing 305cfm @.600
226/234 .598/.599 on a 117 LSA Comp Blower Grind Cam
Kooks 1 7/8 race headers
A.I.R and EGR deleted
Magnaflow cats on 3in Kooks Y pipe
44# Accel injectors
Intercooled Magnacharger setup for 10psi of boost
Walbro 340 fuel pump w/hotwire kit
PTM 90mm throttle body
Cutom OS #3
2 Bar MAP sensor

That's the main list, there's more I just can't remember all of it anymore.

THis is the tune that was sent to me with the maggie kit that I bought and I have tweaked it minorly to get to where I'm at.

I have not AutoVE tuned because I thought I needed a MAF to do so and I have no MAF installed, running only SD, there is no room for a MAF in my setup, the TB sits right on top of the radiator and the air lid had to be cut to get the correct angle for the silicone fitting that connects them. I do have an LM-1 installed and ready.

Thanks to those that have responded so quickly. I was pretty sure that the timing was off, but not sure how much.

[johnv]

no you don't need a MAF for Auto VE, infact you need to disable it if you have one !

[onfire]

If you want to try it yourself:

1. Reduce the HO timing table "38's" to 18....the big red block of 38's.

2. Do Joecars's list above.

3. Carefully do an Auto VE (read the tutorial closely) with the highest octance fuel that you can get for safety....or 93unleaded and a botttle of Torco.

4. Keep scanning for kr during the VE tune and adjust the timing table down if needed.

5. Get the idle and part throttle down first in VE then work the wot in 1000 rpm increments.

Good luck!

[joecar]

You may need to compute your B4001 IFR table for your Accel injectors.

[farmdawg]

Thanks for the all of the help!!! I'll work on these items and see what I can do. I have worked over the IFR table for the injectors and got 0 Long Term Fuel Trim and the Short Term Fuel Trims were around 16 and 20, so there is room for some minor adjusting there.

I have talked to a guy with the same setup that i have and when he was running around 18* of timing he said that his car ran better than when he sent it in to get dynoed and the timing was adjusted to the 38* that I have as well. The tuner sent me his cals because of the setups being the same and told me that it would work for driving around but to stay out of boost until it was tuned better.:bash: I'll work on the AutoVE this weekend and see what I can do.

Joecar;

any suggestions as to what those out of range values should be adjustd to? I had changed the trans pressures to normal mode from performance mode where they were all set to 662kpa at all times. I must have forgotten something when I changed the OS, I followed the tutorial for the upgrade, but I probably missed a step somewhere and that's why the octane scaler values are wrong.

[joecar]

Set the out-of-range values to max-1, save the file, close/reopen the tune tool, set then to max, save the file (where max is shown in the upper right corner of the window);

In the case of D0701, D0703 just do this only for the cells that are at 96 psi (662 kPa)...
[the out-of-range values are highlighed with little blue "dog-ears"].

For boosted induction, 38* at load is way too much timing, generates detonation and excess heat.

[farmdawg]

So, what would happen if I changed the timing tables back to stock, would it run at all? The timing was worked over by the kit supplier, but talking to the owner of the car that was worked on his car ran better at the safe tune supplied originally. I've attached the tune after some revisions, please take a look and critique again. I'm still trying to get the AutoVE done, but hooking up the LM-1 to flashscan V2 is proving more difficult than I can grasp right now. If anyone has had success with this PLEASE HELP? The LC-1 and Flashscan V1 are completely different.