Tuning open loop?

[tuff]

Well im a newbe on this board and also new to the tuning world but i have a few questions?How do i force my car to run open loop so i can lose the o2s.And what do i have to tune as far as the car staying open loop?I do have a wideband if thats what it takes to make it right.And as for my maf that i still run is there a simple way to tune it to my car.Is there pretty simple way to get it right?My car is a big heads and cam car and not daily driven if that makes a diffrnence.Thanks for any input to get me going in the right direction.

[dfe1]

There's a pretty extensive post covering the steps needed to convert to speed/density (SD) so you can eliminate the MAF. However, I'd advise you to retain closed loop operation. There's no real benefit to eliminating it unless you have to run leaded fuel, which will kill the sensors. Keep in mind that closed loop is only active during idle and relatively light engine loads, so it has no effect on WOT operation, unless your basic calibration is way off. If that's the case, it will probably just add more fuel than is ideal for max power, but on the other hand, it may save you from driving over the crankshaft. I don't know how much camshaft you have, but there are plenty of guys running big engines, lots of cam and ported heads with both MAF and closed loop. Also keep in mind that FlashScan provides you with a ton of tuning options, but just because you CAN change something doesn't mean you should.

[tuff]

The reason for the open loop is to lose the o2s so i can run leaded fuel.Im runing 104 unleaded with a 200 shot and want to increase the shot but octane is holding me back.I here guys just recalibration the maf to your motor and is just as good as sd mode.Correct me if im wrong but the nice thing about a maf is it will adjust to weather AFR vs sd does not.Im in the chicago area so the weather is like a roller coaster.

[dfe1]

Personally, I don't see all the furor about running MAF-less. Certainly, you can make more power without a MAF than with one, but if a car is street driven, I don't think the power increase is enough to offset the drivability advantage offered by a MAF. On the other hand, the systems used on 1990-1993 Camaros, Firebirds and Corvettes were speed/density, and they ran fine. It's really all a matter of personal preference. As for compensating for changes in the weather, the MAP and temperature sensors will handle that.
The MAF sensor simply measures the amount of air that flows into the engine. I wouldn't mess with the MAF calibration. Just log air/fuel ratio with your wide band and adjust the VE table as required to maintain 14.7:1 during idle and light engine loads. I'd advise you to use the power enrichment table and shoot for an air/fuel ratio of 12.5:1 at wide open throttle (13:1 if you're brave).
The easiest way to lock the system into open loop is to adjust the closed loop enable temp to 139 degrees C in the B4205 table. If coolant temp gets that high, you've got bigger problems than worrying about closed loop. Good luck with your tuning and keep in mind that the information above is based on my experience. Other tuners may have different opinions and different procedures which may work equally well. The important thing for you to do is develop your own techniques and become comfortable with them. I'd advise you to do a bit of experimenting with various parameters so you get a better feel for the procedures. Also, always save your changes in a new file so you can go back to a previous tune if you need to. I number my tune files sequentially so I can track changes more easily. Hope this helps.