Can some take a look at my tune files

[esco35m]

So far everything is going good with the autove. I have most of my ve table dialed in. On this log my main focus was on WOT runs in 3rd gear. I would come off the line in 1st shift to 2nd and about 30MPH I would shift in 3rd and go WOT. I am having the problem with popping/backfire around 3000-5000 RPMs. Last night I was driving and I was going about 40 I put in second and the same thing happened popping/backfire sound. There is also a little knock retard in the log file. The runs have about frame950. I am open to any advise or suggestions. Thank you for help in advance. :help2:

[esco35m]

I have been doing some research on the forum and I was thinking about changing B3308 DFCO M6 Enable Temp to 255. Currently it is set to 50. To see if that gets rid of the popping that I am getting. Does that sound like a possible solution for the popping problem?

[esco35m]

I went out on another test run to see if setting the DFCO to 140*c would cure the popping im getting. So I had the car in 3rd gear doing about 50 and around 3700-5000 RPM the car was popping when I went to WOT. I also have 19 degress of timing in my high octane table. I was wondering if that was my problem not having enough timing to burn off all the fuel. I was thinking of adjusting the timing to may 22-24 degress(I only have access to 92 octane). Does that sound like a bad idea, or am I just way out in left feild. Also on this last run I got no knock retard.

[joecar]

Are you sure it wasn't knock you were hearing...?

Log GM.KR and see what it says.

If you enable DFCO, it may or may not prevent popping thru exhaust during closed thrittle deceleration.

2001/2002 F-body LS1's seem sensitive to knock... I'd be very careful about increasing timing around peak torque... increase it before and after peak torque and reduce it around peak torque [so it looks like a small valley at peak torque] (timing table already has a "hole" at peak torque high airmass)...

pay close attention to KR and listen for knock... if you do hear it, get off the throttle immediately..., reduce the timing and richen the AFR to 12.6 in that range.

[esco35m]

I went out on another test run to see if setting the DFCO to 140*c would cure the popping im getting. So I had the car in 3rd gear doing about 50 and around 3700-5000 RPM the car was popping when I went to WOT. I also have 19 degress of timing in my high octane table. I was wondering if that was my problem not having enough timing to burn off all the fuel. I was thinking of adjusting the timing to may 22-24 degress(I only have access to 92 octane). Does that sound like a bad idea, or am I just way out in left feild. Also on this last run I got no knock retard.

[esco35m]

Update I posted my last run to day on the previous post. On that log file their is no KR but it was still popping at WOT. I posted my problem on ls1tech and they suggested maybe bad spark plugs. One of the members had the same problem as me and he said spark plugs took care of the problem. My plugs have about 20,000 miles so I guess they could be do for a changing will see if that is the problem. They did not have the plug wires that I wanted so I was thinking about putting my stock ones back on since I still have them and they only have about 10,000 on them. Right now I have taylor wires and they have about 40,000 miles on them. I will replace the plugs in about a hour or so. I have to let the car cool down. So joe or anyone else what do you think even after looking at my last test run.

[joecar]

I can't view it from this PC, I'll have to wait till I get home late tonite.

[esco35m]

I just got done changing my plugs and I put my oem plug wires on. I will be watching the cowboys football game but will be checking the forum for updates.

[joecar]

Your tune is too lean under load (last 3 cols of B3605; B3618).

Your log shows no knock retard; you say you hear "popping" during WOT... you have to determine if this is pinging that you're hearing; do your old plugs show signs of knock...? Does it happen with your new plugs...?

[esco35m]

Updated I got on it today and the popping went away I think. I did not get to get on it like I wanted to because of traffic. I put in second and punched it till about 55 MPH and no popping. The trottle response is a whole lot better too. I hope this was the problem I will double check later on this afternoon or tonight. The old plugs looked good. A while back I had problems with the car misfireing. I did some trouble shooting and found one of my Taylor plug wires was faulty. The clip on the in side broke from the wire. So I had put one of the oem wires back on until I got time to buy new wires. (aboult 10,000 miles ago) I just never got around to buying new plug wires. So I am not sure if it was the plug wires were giving a weak spark or the plugs just need to be replaced. But the response is a lot better.(maybe both) Joe or anyone else do you think I should lower the AFR to 12.5 in B3605. Also I was told that in B3618 that value should be higher (leaner) than my ve table since the PCM will use what ever value is richer. So that way the ve table will be dialed in the correct value for the AFR, or was I misinformed. Also I think I will put the DFCO back to 50*C since it did not solve my problem and I was told it only comes into play while decel and not underload like my problem. I will keep you all updated. Thank You for you help and will be check the forum for any suggestions.

[joecar]

Either thru B3605 or B3618 you may want AFR to be something like 12.6-12.8 around peak torque...

-set last 3 cols of B3605 to this AFR;
-set B3618 to give suitable AFR thru-out, and around peak torque set it to this AFR;

several reasons:
- protect engine from knock damage;
- make torque;

Some people then also lean it out a few points around peak power since this will make a little more power.

You can do Auto VE with or without B3618 set to your target AFR (12.6-12.8), either way will work fine.

[esco35m]

So in B3605 from ECT 50 to 140 and MAP 90,95,100 I entered 12.80. And B3618 for RPM's 0-4400 I entered 12.60 and 4800-7200 I entered 12.80. Is this correct?

[joecar]

Yes, that should be good for now, safe AFR's, can be fine tuned later if required... I presume your ECT is in metric *C.

BTW: were your BEN's close to 1.0...? If they were, you will now see these new AFR's in the wideband readings; will show the richer of PE B3618 (when enabled) and OLFA B3605.

[esco35m]

My BEN's where close for all normal city driving and cruise. I was dialing in the upper RPM (WOT) when the popping started happening. So Later on tonight I will verify that my crusie/city driving BEN's are still good. And do a few WOT runs and get those dialed in as well. I will go in the VE table and fatten up the for the WOT runs so I won't be so far off on my table. I will let you know how it goes, and post my file so you can take a look at them if you could. Just to make sure everything is good and safe. And yes my ECT are in metric. When I do my WOT runs I usually run in 3rd gear. So I don't have to go very fast and I can get the more frames in at the higher RPM's. I would love to use 4th but I don't have enough room where I do my test. After I get the numbers dialed in then do I dial in the spark.(WOT) I was hoping to use some where between 22-24 degress. I don't like the theroy of waiting until you get knock retard and back it up a couple of degress. BTW what does OLFA stand for I figured OL is Open Loop, but FA im not sure.

[joecar]

OLFA = OL Fuel:Air

[Big Kahuna]

After I get the numbers dialed in then do I dial in the spark.(WOT) I was hoping to use some where between 22-24 degress. .
I dont know the difference between the 92 octane fuel we use here in Aus to your 92 fuel so bare that in mind.
Generally here in Aus with "our" premium 98 octane juice, 24* is about the most for a bolt on type car.
SO, (assuming) if our fuels are fairly equal, Id say you'll need to be carefull if your only ever running 92 octane and 24* timing.

Also once have your timing figured out go back and Auto VE it again as adjusting your timing WILL sway your AFR's.

[esco35m]

I just got back from one of my runs just to make sure the cruise and city was good and BEN where almost right on I just have a few areas to clean up. I was how ever able to get up on it a few times and no more popping. I guess the spark plugs and wires where the problem. I will be logging some more WOT runs tonight just to make sure that WOT looks OK. Right now I am going over the log on my laptop and so far no knock retard. I will keep you updated with my runs. Thanks again for everything Joe.

[esco35m]

Thank You for the heads up Big Kahuna I will keep an eye out for the timing.

[esco35m]

I just went through my log file and there is some knock retard. It seem to only happen in the lower RPM range. Here are some of the frame#2770, 4480, 4570 6940, 7070, 7310, 10180, 11880, 12280, 12370, 13380, 15020, 17480, 18180, 18650. I will go through the log again and get the rest of the frames. Here is the log file. Any suggestions.

[mr.prick]

leave your B3605 stock and set your to what you desire. (not 14.63 afr)
that tutorial is gonna blow up someones motor some day.
2189
the highlighted area is not what you want to see in
AFR X MAP X RPM
its starting to get scary if you ask me. :eek:
especially if you are doing road racing type driving to hit those cells
with the stock pistons.
that is most likely your "pop" sound that you referred to.
you can get away with it for awhile but sooner or later your gonna melt a piston or valve.
at the very least keep your PE mode enabled and keep it a little aggressive.
drop your PE mode {B3616} from 4000 RPM up to 5% to be safe. IMO

[esco35m]

Mr. Prick here is my tune file. The highest value is 14.63. I do not have the popping sound any more could you please tell me which value in my tune is incorrect or needs to be changed. I had just got done doing that log and was going to update my ve table with that log.

[mr.prick]

2191
this is my suggestion.

[esco35m]

Mr. Prick I looked at you tune and I was curious as to why you set b3605 to 15.40 from ECT 100-110 from 20 to 45 MAP. Is b3616 when the throttle position hits that percent we will enable PE B3605 for that RPM. Im just trying to learn how everything works.

[mr.prick]

i just set it to the factory settings.
be warned when changing this table you must also change
{B4901} charge temperature blending. (and others)
or on cold start you might run a bit lean if you don`t , that is why i changed it back to the stock settings.
what people don`t tell you is that it is very hard to keep OLSD consistent.
at least that is what i have found.
but none the less you should not run with out your PE mode enabled
no matter what you do.