ASPARK Relearn

[mistermike]

Does anyone know what parameter(s) adaptive spark uses to decide to move back towards 100%? I have a bit of an issue with false knock, which chips away at my ASPARK, and it would be nice to know if there's a way to get it back easily without a reset. Someone told me you had to hit certain cells under certain throttle and / or load conditions, but he wasn't sure of the specifics.

[GMPX]

B6213 - B6217 change the 'learn window', also..
B6224, increase that value so it comes back to 100% faster.
If you are using a custom O.S you 'could' lock the scaler at 100%, though that's not really recommended unless you are tuning.

Cheers,
Ross

[mistermike]

Excellent info. It sounds like bumping the increment rate a bit might hasten recovery. Assuming no new knock events, is the increment based on runtime, MAP threshold, or some combination? I guess I'm wondering if, assuming I am happy with the increment rate, if I can initiate the increment process by simply satisfying certain operating conditions.

[GMPX]

Yeah, what you said....
The logic is like this -

If MAP is above {B6213}
AND
If RPM is above {B6214}
AND
If RPM is below {B6215}
AND
If Coolant Temp is above {B6216}
AND
If Intake Temp is above {B6217}
AND
Knock level is = 0
THEN
Increment scaler back to 100% by the amount in {B6224}, I think from memory the increment rate happens 10 or 5 times per second.
If any of the above are not met then the scaler will not be incremented.
There is nothing wrong with bringing the scaler back up faster, as per most things GM have it set 'safe'.
Of course, if you find the scaler is spending alot of time off 100% then you need to revisit your spark maps.

Cheers,
Ross

[87gmc]

i noticed that at idle the scaler does not go back up until it is underload such as above the min map, i set mine to 0 but still will not climb at idle is there anyway of making it climb while you idle at a stop light or something?

[mistermike]

Ross, once again knowledge and experience get the job done. I love this stuff. I'm learning something new every day. I'm just about convinced my KR issues are mechanical, as I could get it on a cold winter day, stock engine, stock tune, etc. I guess a tank full of racing fuel and a deliberate timing reduction might cement my opinion. I'm also thinking that re-torqueing the rockers might be worthwhile. Some fellows have seen some nasty variations right off the assembly line.

[joecar]

...I'm just about convinced my KR issues are mechanical, as I could get it on a cold winter day, stock engine, stock tune, etc...
...Some fellows have seen some nasty variations right off the assembly line.
Other than lifter/tappet noise...

I can't say for 2004 GTO, but for 2001-2002 F-body, some blocks came from the factory with #2 cylinder overbored .020 allowing piston to rock or slap which may trigger knock events (you can hear it loud as daylight at idle, and it rattles on initial loading at rpm; "...I thought you got a new car...").

Another source for knock may be when sufficient oil is being drawn thru the PCV plumbing (oil vapour has low octane rating); again F-body PCV plumbing draws from rear of each valve cover (acceleration (g-force) -> hi rpm -> lots of oil in valve covers -> lots of oil sucked into engine... really cool design :? ).

[GMPX]

Other than lifter/tappet noise...

Ahh, been there, mine sounded like a diesel on a hot restart, oil pump was the cause, I was ready to throw a set of lifters at it.

Cheers,
Ross