Wideband O2 installation

[PSWired]

So I picked up an LC-1 last week and need to install it to get my cam dialed in (212/218 in an LQ9). My original plan was to install in place of the passenger narrow band sensor and use the LC-1 simulated NB output to feed the PCM. However, I haven't been able to come up with an old oxygen sensor to get the connector from so I don't have to modify the engine harness. So it looks like I'll be welding in a bung, the question is where. I have dual 3" back to behind the dual in/out muffler and this is an extended cab pickup so the combine point is REALLY far behind the engine. Plus dual 3" magnaflow cats. Where should I install the sensor, is right next to the NB sensor on the passenger side okay?

[GMPX]

So I picked up an LC-1 last week and need to install it to get my cam dialed in (212/218 in an LQ9). My original plan was to install in place of the passenger narrow band sensor and use the LC-1 simulated NB output to feed the PCM. However, I haven't been able to come up with an old oxygen sensor to get the connector from so I don't have to modify the engine harness. So it looks like I'll be welding in a bung, the question is where. I have dual 3" back to behind the dual in/out muffler and this is an extended cab pickup so the combine point is REALLY far behind the engine. Plus dual 3" magnaflow cats. Where should I install the sensor, is right next to the NB sensor on the passenger side okay?

Try pre-cat if possible, next to or near the NBO2 is good, that's exaclty where mine is.

Cheers,
Ross

[mistermike]

www.casperselectronics.com should be able to get you all the plugs, extensions etc. you need. You have to heed the grounding instructions if you're going to do NB sim or expect accurate logging. You can use the original NB's as a heater load or a power resistor of the same value as the heater in the old O2 sensor. Those aluminum case jobs with the 2 mounting tabs are ideal.
Some people have mentioned error messages with the LC-1 due to the voltage drop during cranking. I slapped together a crude time delay that's good for about 18 seconds or so. It eliminates any chance of error message and allows enough time to purge condensation from the plumbing before it splashes up onto a hot O2. You can change the delay with the capacitor value. 350 uF is just what I had lying around.