View Full Version : COS5 N20 Settings??
BowlingSS
February 8th, 2008, 12:55 PM
OK, I am installing a HSW Wet Plate Kit and have my PCM pin 56 setup to a switch. I am using EFILive 7.5.3 COS5.
Here is what I have so far on the N20 settings:
A0011 Set to N20 Monitor
A0015 Set to 1.2 0-8K
A0016 Set to 19
A0017 Set to 3000
A0018 What should I set this one to. MAP 30??
Added:
A0012 need to set to 0
A0013 need to set to 0
Please let me know what I should be setting the above calibrations to. Are there any other setting that need to be changed?
Thanks,
Bill
:beer: :cheers:
nqcv8
February 9th, 2008, 01:19 PM
Hi Bill
You can also just run the ground to pin 56 with a second relay from the Nitrous arming switch...saves having multiple switches.
I have only just started playing with Nitrous, If its a wet shot you need to not worry to much about the VE table.. just change the Jets in the fuel nozzles, I plan to make some minor adjustments with the A0015 to get the AFR's exactly where I want them.
A0016 actually reduces the timing by whats in this table...so you want to pull 19 degrees out?
my A0016 table varies between 3 and 4 degrees thru out the rev range.
Hopefully some of the more experienced guys with NOS can help with some of the other questions.
BowlingSS
February 9th, 2008, 01:56 PM
Hi Bill
You can also just run the ground to pin 56 with a second relay from the Nitrous arming switch...saves having multiple switches.
I have only just started playing with Nitrous, If its a wet shot you need to not worry to much about the VE table.. just change the Jets in the fuel nozzles, I plan to make some minor adjustments with the A0015 to get the AFR's exactly where I want them.
A0016 actually reduces the timing by whats in this table...so you want to pull 19 degrees out?
my A0016 table varies between 3 and 4 degrees thru out the rev range.
Hopefully some of the more experienced guys with NOS can help with some of the other questions.
A0016 was set to 19 by default. I changed it to 6 degrees. It is a wet shot. I changed A0015 to match Beers spreadsheet. Where do you have A0018 set to? I set it to 30.
Thanks,
Bill
:cheers: :cheers:
nqcv8
February 10th, 2008, 11:03 AM
A0016 was set to 19 by default. I changed it to 6 degrees. It is a wet shot. I changed A0015 to match Beers spreadsheet. Where do you have A0018 set to? I set it to 30.
Thanks,
Bill
:cheers: :cheers:
I will know more later in the week when we can get access to a Dyno.
I would imagine A0018 set to 30 would be fine as long as the A0017 is set to 3000rpm.
Beer99C5
February 10th, 2008, 02:32 PM
A0016 was set to 19 by default. I changed it to 6 degrees. It is a wet shot. I changed A0015 to match Beers spreadsheet. Where do you have A0018 set to? I set it to 30.
Thanks,
Bill
:cheers: :cheers:
Use a VE multiplier of 1 A0015 for the first dyno test then insert your real world values...
What I have in that sheet reflects my dry 50 and wet 50 dyno from AUG, I have not tested the sheet yet, what I would do is use 1/2 of what the sheet tells ya to make sure the AFR is changing in the direction you want it on the following tunes, and then walk it in.
Jim
Alvin
February 11th, 2008, 01:31 PM
BE SURE TO SET A0012 and A0013 (valet mode speed) to zero or else the timing retard will not work!!!
Beer99C5
February 11th, 2008, 02:11 PM
BE SURE TO SET A0012 and A0013 (valet mode speed) to zero or else the timing retard will not work!!!
Thats a important bit of info! Glad you passed this, I would have been pissed, had I got to the dyno and could not get it to work! Mine was set for 512 and 512 :bash:
So A0011 to Monitor N2O and A0012 and 0013 to zero?
Jim
joecar
February 11th, 2008, 03:52 PM
This has some important info... stickied. :cheers:
Alvin
February 12th, 2008, 08:40 AM
Yeah,
Honestly when I found out that you had to do that I was a little pissed.
BowlingSS
February 12th, 2008, 10:19 AM
I never would of thought I would have needed to set those since they are for valet mode.
Thanks,
Bill
:cheers:
BowlingSS
February 12th, 2008, 10:20 AM
This has some important info... stickied. :cheers:
Good idea joecar....:cheers:
:cheers:
jermstyle
December 3rd, 2008, 04:48 AM
I know it's late - but the documentation actually says to set A0012 and A0013 to MAX VALUE. So just set these to same value as H0109 and you're good.
BowlingSS
December 3rd, 2008, 10:02 AM
I know it's late - but the documentation actually says to set A0012 and A0013 to MAX VALUE. So just set these to same value as H0109 and you're good.
BE SURE TO SET A0012 and A0013 (valet mode speed) to zero or else the timing retard will not work!!!
Highlander
April 25th, 2009, 02:17 PM
Hi Bill
You can also just run the ground to pin 56 with a second relay from the Nitrous arming switch...saves having multiple switches.
Why would you need a separate relay? What would be the best way for the system to arm at the same time as the PCM?
5.7ute
April 26th, 2009, 12:40 PM
Why would you need a separate relay? What would be the best way for the system to arm at the same time as the PCM?
Using a second relay that earths pin 56 only when the nitrous solenoids are activated allows the pcm to pull timing, add fuel only when spraying. This method has worked fine for me over the last year and at least 50 passes.
Highlander
April 26th, 2009, 12:51 PM
i know about the PCM control, i was refering about the wiring perse... i thought the SAME relay from the switch provided such input... or the switch perse... depends on how you wire it...
5.7ute
April 26th, 2009, 01:08 PM
i know about the PCM control, i was refering about the wiring perse... i thought the SAME relay from the switch provided such input... or the switch perse... depends on how you wire it...
The arming relay, even when used on the ground side of the solenoids may still have some voltage that could harm the PCM.( I am no electrical engineer so cannot say this for a fact)
To be safe I thought it best to use a seperate relay.
VYSSLS1
April 29th, 2009, 04:35 AM
ok guys heres a little information, a while ago now, i actually rang Paul from EFILive to up the multiplier tables to 3.0 as they were only 1.3 years ago, and i couldnt get enough fuel to flow whilst on NOS.
As a good guide, this is how ive tuned many NOS cars including my own, If running a dry shot, and using big injectors, run car at approx 12.8AFR Naturally Aspirated, Arm the NOS system, with NOS bottle turned OFF, depending on NOS shot eg 200hp aim for 10.4 AFR, making sure timing retard is working correctly, run car in closed loope for approx 5 minutes, to clean spark plugs after a extreamly rich mixture.
Heat bottles to 1180psi using an accurate pressure guage, and carry out test on dyno with NOS Bottles turned on. I personally find with a 10.2 to 10.4 AFR with a 200hp NOS shot, AFR will rise to approx 11.8-11.9AFR with the NOS bottles turned on. Just remember this is a guide only. Make sure you have 2 degrees retard for every 50hp of NOS at a minimum.
Just remember this is a guide on what i find, others may find different. Depending on fuel system and Injectors used.
427
April 29th, 2009, 08:45 AM
ok guys heres a little information, a while ago now, i actually rang Paul from EFILive to up the multiplier tables to 3.0 as they were only 1.3 years ago, and i couldnt get enough fuel to flow whilst on NOS.
As a good guide, this is how ive tuned many NOS cars including my own, If running a dry shot, and using big injectors, run car at approx 12.8AFR Naturally Aspirated, Arm the NOS system, with NOS bottle turned OFF, depending on NOS shot eg 200hp aim for 10.4 AFR, making sure timing retard is working correctly, run car in closed loope for approx 5 minutes, to clean spark plugs after a extreamly rich mixture.
Heat bottles to 1180psi using an accurate pressure guage, and carry out test on dyno with NOS Bottles turned on. I personally find with a 10.2 to 10.4 AFR with a 200hp NOS shot, AFR will rise to approx 11.8-11.9AFR with the NOS bottles turned on. Just remember this is a guide only. Make sure you have 2 degrees retard for every 50hp of NOS at a minimum.
Just remember this is a guide on what i find, others may find different. Depending on fuel system and Injectors used.
Damm -
why the big bottle pressure
You dont feel once it hits 10.2-10.3 afr the plugs are shot?
5.7ute
April 29th, 2009, 09:46 AM
Damm -
why the big bottle pressure
You dont feel once it hits 10.2-10.3 afr the plugs are shot?
Following Brad's (VYSSLS1) advice a year or so ago when I set up my dry shot it only took a small tweak to get the AFR where I wanted it when spraying. Mind you I only run a 150 shot at 1050psi bottle pressure.
Having the AFR run at around 10.2 for a pass had no adverse effects on the plugs which had cleaned themselves up by the time I returned to the pits.
VYSSLS1
April 29th, 2009, 11:14 AM
Why run the bottle pressure that high?
is simply, your tuning a NOS kit, in a workshop on a dyno, without a bottle heater your pressure will probably sit around 800-850psi, they can even drop down to 700psi on a 18 degree night.
Now what happens when you have the car at a drag strip, the vehicle is parked in the pits, with direct sunlight on the vehicle, and ambient temp at approx 30degrees C, have a look at the bottle pressure, and it will be at approx 1050-1100 psi.
If i run my ute on a 30 degree day, my bottles constantly sit at 1200psi, as they are exposed to the temperatures.
1200psi isnt a big deal, as they say when filling the bottles you can go to 1200 psi, so obviously there isnt a big deal about running them at 1200 psi.
The bottles could probably take 1800 psi, before anything would go wrong, but i wouldnt go higher than 1200 psi, before id be worried.
As for spark plugs, if youve put a new set in anyway, a couple runs running a extreamly rich mixture NA isnt going to hurt the plugs, one cylinder temperatures reach a certain point, which is found in closed loope operation, the spark plugs actually clean themselves.
If youve done 10 or so runs trying to set your AFR where you want them, well then id say change the plugs, as youve probably killed the plugs by then.
If we were to run a extreamly rich mixture with methanol, yes methanol does coat the plugs, and no we dont have closed loope, so the spark plugs are normally stuffed after running at a extreamly rich mixture.
When i use to tune my older commodore with a 375hp NOS shot, i aimed for a AFR of 10.0-10.2 when the gas was turned on running a 200hp shot, when the extra 175hp shot was turned on this mixture used to go to 11.4-11.5. And to protect a standard bottom end i use to run the vehicle at 11.0 AFR at approx 6000rpm.
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