lc-1 to v2 hook up

[W_D_R]

Been searching for hours and can not find a definite on how to hook up my lc-1 wideband o2 to the v2 box.

I found a post a few months back that had a picture of the v2 inputs and showed where each pin goes. Not sure what forum but if someone could help me out, Thanks.

Wes:help2:

[nonnieselman]

im lookin for that too... my VE table is a lil screwy and i cant find anything about hookin up the LC-1 or LM-1 to my V2...

[mr.prick]

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=564

[nonnieselman]

mr.prick.... we are tryin to figure out how to connect our LC-1 to our V2 flashscan.. not a V1..
Thanks for helping though..

[nonnieselman]

just incase you didnt see this...


http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7616

[mr.prick]

sorry,
i figured it was a sticky with 13 pages and surely it
would have something for the V2 as well.

[Gelf VXR]

Look in the Beta BB logging forum pages, the LM/LC-1 can be connected to V2 serial port with the aid of an adapter. Of course you have to upgrade to the beta software

[joecar]

Turn the V2 over and you will see the decal as shown in the attached pic...

Choose (say) EXT.AD1... using the orange terminals that came with your V2, connect the WB signal wire to the pin with the + symbol, and the WB signal return/ground to the pin with the - or ground symbol.

:cheers:

[BlackSS]

What about the other 4 wires? I need mine to be portable and I can't find out how I need to wire it.

[nonnieselman]

What about the other 4 wires? I need mine to be portable and I can't find out how I need to wire it.

what 4 wires? on the control box?

look at your Tutorials.. it tells you where the wires go.. just put 1/4" spades (male / female) and just unhook them. thats how mine is set up. just keep your colors the same on both sides.

[mr.prick]

i have mine configured as
yellow = AD1+
white and green = AD1-
red = 12v switched
blue = ground
brown = not used

the white and green are grounded though the V2 to the ECU.
you can connect your blue to a point in the vehicles wiring harness that is a ground,
that way all grounds go to the same point, ending at the engine block not the chassis.
you can get power from the fuse box.

[Gelf VXR]

I would be wary of using original NB heater supply as a switched power source, I am have an issue with my LC-1's cutting out, Innovative support says it a power loss issue.

I suspect the power is cut when Cat protection is active (even thou I have disabled)

[joecar]

I would be wary of using original NB heater supply as a switched power source, I am have an issue with my LC-1's cutting out, Innovative support says it a power loss issue.

I suspect the power is cut when Cat protection is active (even thou I have disabled)NBO2 heater ground on F-body and C5 Y-body (i.e. LS1A and LS1B) is ok (not switched by PCM).

NBO2 heater ground on later models/years (C6, GTO) is switched by PCM/ECM and is not a suitable power source.

[Gelf VXR]

NBO2 heater ground on F-body and C5 Y-body (i.e. LS1A and LS1B) is ok (not switched by PCM).

NBO2 heater ground on later models/years (C6, GTO) is switched by PCM/ECM and is not a suitable power source.

Mmm, I only used the O2 heater 12V power supply as it is switched on with the ignition. Must be the 12V+ that is swithed or both?


I didn't use the grounds, I went direct to the battery, which I must move to the engine block at some time? Then again the offset issue will be a thing of the past with the serial cable connection.

[joecar]

...
Must be the 12V+ that is swithed or both?
...In the later models/years, the the NBO2 heater grounds are switched by the PCM/ECM.

[Gelf VXR]

In the later models/years, the the NBO2 heater grounds are switched by the PCM/ECM.

Ok thanks

[W_D_R]

I'm not wanting to permanently install in one vehicle, would like it kinda portable.

[BlackSS]

These are the wires it has:
Red - 12V
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Yellow - Analog out 1
Brown - Analog out 2
Black - Calibration wire

So it will be portable can I hook the red to the 12V supply on the V2?
It says to hook the blue and white together, would they be on a 12V ground or analog?
Which ground would the black wire go to?
The only thing I know so far is the yellow will go to A1+ and the brown won't be used.

[W_D_R]

Anyone?

[joecar]

These are the wires it has:
Red - 12V
Blue - Heater Ground
White - System Ground
Yellow - Analog out 1
Brown - Analog out 2
Black - Calibration wire


So it will be portable can I hook the red to the 12V supply on the V2?No. Connect it to switched/fused 12V.


It says to hook the blue and white together, would they be on a 12V ground or analog?It's should not be necessary to connect white to chassis/battery ground.
White does have to go to 2 places:
1. A1-.
2. The cathode side of the LED.


Which ground would the black wire go to?Black is not a ground wire, it has two purposes:
1. black drives the LED (black to anode side, white to cathode side).
2. momentarily grounding black initiates free-air calibration.

If you permanently ground black, then the LC-1 will never exit from free-air cal.


The only thing I know so far is the yellow will go to A1+ and the brown won't be used.You also need to connect white to A1-.

White also goes to the cathode side (bar) of the LED.
Black goes to the anode side (triangle) of the LED.

You need to make sure that brown is cut/taped off so it won't short anywhere.

Also make sure that yellow is never shorted while LC-1 is powered.

[nonnieselman]

Turn the V2 over and you will see the decal as shown in the attached pic...

Choose (say) EXT.AD1... using the orange terminals that came with your V2, connect the WB signal wire to the pin with the + symbol, and the WB signal return/ground to the pin with the - or ground symbol.

:cheers:

Got it to work.... thanks guys for the help!!!!!

[BlackSS]

joecar,

Thanks for the help, that clears things most up for me. One quick question my LC-1 came with the white and blue wires soldered together, the manaul says to hook them to the same ground source. So do I use the chassis ground or the analog ground?

Thanks.

[joecar]

joecar,

Thanks for the help, that clears things most up for me. One quick question my LC-1 came with the white and blue wires soldered together, the manaul says to hook them to the same ground source. So do I use the chassis ground or the analog ground?

Thanks.Try it like that first...

you may [or may not] have to connect white (or green or shield) to A1-.

V2 measures the voltage of A1+ wrt A1-.

The problem that may arise is this:
if V2 internally grounds A1- and you connect white to both A1- and to chassis ground, V2's internal ground may be at a slightly different potential than chassis ground which means a ground loop current will flow thru V2 in an attempt to equalize the 2 potentials... this ground loop current will cause the potential of A1- to have some offset.

(I don't like signal returns connected to chassis ground for that reason;
the white and green wires on my LC-1 do not go to chassis ground:
my green goes to A1- and my white goes to LED cathode).

[BlackSS]

Thanks for the help.