LTFT's running in the + Range after SD AutoTuning?

[BowlingSS]

My LTFT's are running in the + range after SD AutoTuning? I am not running a MAF any more. My averages are running about -0.7 and -2.1 but the max is 4.7 and 7.8. My right side is higher. My LC-1 WB is running on the left side. Should I change my VE table to get these values down below 0? I thought my LC-1 WB with the BEN Tuning should of made my number negative. I might need more lear time. I only have about 40 to 50 miles on them. What is the best method to get these trims below 0?

Thanks,
Bill

[TAQuickness]

What tables did you change when you went back to closed loop? You may need to do some tweeking to the PE table, DFCO, etc...

[BowlingSS]

What tables did you change when you went back to closed loop? You may need to do some tweeking to the PE table, DFCO, etc...

I changed B3605, B4205, B3618 and DFCO back to stock. I also changed the PE Vs RPM table to 13.0 < 2500RPM and 12.4 > 2500.

Do I need to tweek my VE Table to get the trims lower?
Bill

[BowlingSS]

I used to use the IFR table to get the trims negative but I heard that is a no-no now. I guess I will lower the numbers in the VE table that match the cell from the trims.
Is that the right way?
Bill

[TAQuickness]

you're on the right track. adjusting the IFR table to compensate for anything than different sized injectors is a bandaid.

Lowering the values in the VE would be the right thing to do. FWIW, Delco posted up in the auto-tuning thread with a really good point. Your NB's probably aren't as accurate as your WB. May want to look into a new set of NB's or consider staying in OLSD.

[dfe1]

You have a fairly healthy cam and that can play havoc with O2 sensor readings at low air flows (at low rpm/low air flow, a portion of the intake mixture passes right through the combustion chambers into the exhaust manifolds. You'll undoubtedly have to do some tuning of the VE table, but you might want to make some changes to the IFR table to get your positive numbers on the negative side, then use VE table tuning to reduce the areas that are excessively negative. In spite of "conventional wisdom", altering the IFR table is the easiest and most efficient way to make coarse changes. Then fine tune with the VE table. If you look at some stock calibrations, you'll find that even GM calibration engineers use this approach. You may also want to wait until you've driven the car a bit more. Ther's a fairly significant difference between right and left side trims, and it may take a bit more learn time. You might also try switching O2 sensors from side to side to see if the sensors aren't causing some, or all of the right/left side diffreences.

[BowlingSS]

you're on the right track. adjusting the IFR table to compensate for anything than different sized injectors is a bandaid.

Lowering the values in the VE would be the right thing to do. FWIW, Delco posted up in the auto-tuning thread with a really good point. Your NB's probably aren't as accurate as your WB. May want to look into a new set of NB's or consider staying in OLSD.
My NB's are Bosch 13111's that I bought 8 months ago to get rid of the O2 codes. That right one was closer when it was new. It has drifted some. Both of the NB's used to be right on with each other.
OK right now I am in closed loop SD. If I go back to Open Loop SD how do I tune for WOT? Do I enable PE mode? What is the advantages of going to OLSD? I already got rid of my MAF. Open Loop I get rid of my O2's and just use my WB for tuning, is that right?
Thanks,
Bill

[TAQuickness]

Sound like you got it!

[Delco]

you're on the right track. adjusting the IFR table to compensate for anything than different sized injectors is a bandaid.

Lowering the values in the VE would be the right thing to do. FWIW, Delco posted up in the auto-tuning thread with a really good point. Your NB's probably aren't as accurate as your WB. May want to look into a new set of NB's or consider staying in OLSD.
My NB's are Bosch 13111's that I bought 8 months ago to get rid of the O2 codes. That right one was closer when it was new. It has drifted some. Both of the NB's used to be right on with each other.
OK right now I am in closed loop SD. If I go back to Open Loop SD how do I tune for WOT? Do I enable PE mode? What is the advantages of going to OLSD? I already got rid of my MAF. Open Loop I get rid of my O2's and just use my WB for tuning, is that right?
Thanks,
Bill

Still have your PE set where you want the targets to be , turn off closed loop by rasing the temp that enables it and recheck your whole tune using the ben factor - everything should be very close to spot on +- 4 is very little , if you want it all slightly negative in the closed loop area then after tunign with the ben factor just add 1 or 2 % to the lower VE table to richen closed loop slightly so your trims are slightly negative rather than hovering each side of zero.

[BowlingSS]

you're on the right track. adjusting the IFR table to compensate for anything than different sized injectors is a bandaid.
Lowering the values in the VE would be the right thing to do. FWIW, Delco posted up in the auto-tuning thread with a really good point. Your NB's probably aren't as accurate as your WB. May want to look into a new set of NB's or consider staying in OLSD.
My NB's are Bosch 13111's that I bought 8 months ago to get rid of the O2 codes. That right one was closer when it was new. It has drifted some. Both of the NB's used to be right on with each other.
OK right now I am in closed loop SD. If I go back to Open Loop SD how do I tune for WOT? Do I enable PE mode? What is the advantages of going to OLSD? I already got rid of my MAF. Open Loop I get rid of my O2's and just use my WB for tuning, is that right?
Thanks,
Bill

Still have your PE set where you want the targets to be , turn off closed loop by rasing the temp that enables it and recheck your whole tune using the ben factor - everything should be very close to spot on +- 4 is very little , if you want it all slightly negative in the closed loop area then after tunign with the ben factor just add 1 or 2 % to the lower VE table to richen closed loop slightly so your trims are slightly negative rather than hovering each side of zero.

Will there be any problems staying in Open Loop as a daily driver? Is B4205 the only item I need to change on the PCM?
Thanks for your help.
Bill