V1 Problems!!! No Lights... :(

[CoryF]

I went out this morning and hooked it into the car and none of the lights turned on. I checked the cigarette lighter fuse and it is good, there is power getting to the OBD port. So I did some research and found the thread about checking it with the USBview and MProg3.0. I did this and all of the numbers look good. When I connect the V1 to my computer is shows up in the Device Manager, so I uninstalled the drivers and reinstalled them, still no luck.
When I start the flashscan and try to connect the console says "Autodetect interface... Interface not detected"
The only thing that I can think of that has changed since the last time I used it was that I changed to the newest version of EFIlive 7.5.4.66

Please help guys I'm really stumped here! :help:

Thanks,
-CoryF

[GMPX]

When you plug the V1 in to the OBD-II port (with USB disconnected) you should see the LED's cycle up and down once. Does that happen at all?

Cheers,
Ross

[Ira]

When you power up a V1 the lights should run back and forth. It doesn't matter which end you plug in. Most likely problem is that the connector that doesn't light up has broken loose but it might be worse. For almost all problems dealing with loose connectors or torn traces I can repair them.

The tests you need to do are to plug in each end in individually and make sure it lights up both ways, if not see if one end feels loose. If the USB is the problem try gently pressing up on the cable where it plugs into the V1 to see if that helps, if so, the USB connector has come loose.

Ira

[CoryF]

Well I went back out yesterday to try again, I uninstalled and reinstalled the program and it seems that it will only connect when the car ignition is on, other wise it does not recognize the V1. Any thoughts? Once the ignition is on and it is connected it works fine... I didn't think that the ignition had to be on for the V1 to be recognized.

Thanks!
-CoryF

[Ira]

Answer these questions?

Do the lights cycle when you plug in just the USB cable?

Do the lights cycle when you plug in just the OBD cable?

Ira

[CoryF]

Do the lights cycle when you plug in just the USB cable?Yes


Do the lights cycle when you plug in just the OBD cable?Yes

Seems that when I uninstalled the EFILive software and reinstalled it fixed the problem... I don's know, I really have no idea what happened. Because the lights cycle it seems everything is working fine now. :hihi:

Thanks,
-CoryF

[CoryF]

For everyone who comes across this thread in the future I think I found the problem. I went out today and had the SAME exact problem. My black car had been sitting out in the sun, and the V1 was on the seat, and it was "warm" to the touch. I took the unit inside and let it cool off. When I brought it back out it worked like a charm! So I think that maybe the V1 has some kind of temperature sensor in it that shuts it off when it gets too hot. Just an idea...

Thanks,
-CoryF

[joecar]

Some IC's stop working when the temperature is too hot... commercial-spec IC temperature rating is 85°C.

[GMPX]

There is no temp sensor to shut it off.
I think Joe was right, except it should have been able to handle the temps inside the car, where possible the parts are rated to 105degC (221DegF).

Cheers,
Ross

[CoryF]

Hmmm... That's way hotter then I would ever want to get any of my electrical components. lol I'm not sure what the problem was, but letting it sit inside in the AC, and then reconnecting fixed it. Here in AZ with a black car the temps can get up there, especially with black leather. :) It is all working good now so I will just take it out of the car when I am not using it, just to be on the safe side. :hihi:

Thanks,
-CoryF

[GMPX]

The heat here is Australia is like what you get in Arizona, I've got two black cars, you think I would have learned my lesson.

Cheers,
Ross

[CoryF]

The heat here is Australia is like what you get in Arizona, I've got two black cars, you think I would have learned my lesson.

Cheers,
Ross

HAHAHAHAHA We never will! Black just looks too good when its clean. :hihi:

-CoryF

[joecar]

I'm in So.Cal. which is not quite as hot as AZ but still fairly hot... and I have 2 black cars (1 with T-top and 1 with moonroof)...

black looks very good ("bad") when it's clean... if it get's the slightest bit dirty, it just looks very crappy.

[CoryF]

Black looks very good ("bad") when it's clean... if it get's the slightest bit dirty, it just looks very crappy.

This is so true I feel like I'm washing once a week and waxing every 2 weeks :)

-CoryF

[joecar]

I would generally run electronics in comfortable ambient temperature/humidity unless they were automotive/mil-rated.

<hijack>

Cory,
what springs do you have...?
what's the difference between 4/4 vs 4/3...?
are the fronts easy to adjust...?
Thanks. :D

</hijack>

[CoryF]

what springs do you have...?
what's the difference between 4/4 vs 4/3...?
are the fronts easy to adjust...?
Thanks. :D

First off I LOVE them!!!

I kept the stock springs, but when I put the fronts together I put the springs on a lower perch, which is like a 3/4" ish drop, and replaced the rear isolator with heater hose and it really makes it sit perfect! IMO

The difference between the 4/3's and 4/4's is the rear shock. Both kits come with the same front shock. The 4/3's the rear shock has to be removed from the vehicle to adjust it. With the 4/4's are adjusted from inside of the cab. I decided to go with the 4/4's because if I ever want to adjust them all I have to do is fold down the rear seat. :D

The fronts are very easy to adjust, just gotta take off the tire or reach around it and stick a small Allen wrench in the window and spin. They are very easy to adjust JUST as long as you put them together "right". I had to use the cheap rent a tool spring compressor so it was a little tough gettin the window to shine through the coils but once you get em all together it is money well spent.

If you have more questions talk to Sam Strano (http://www.stranoparts.com/), he is the guy I bought mine from, he was VERY helpful. He makes lowering springs too. :)

Let me know if you got any more questions.

Thanks,
-CoryF

[joecar]

I have been speaking to Sam... :cheers: ...he's very informative.

Oh, I see, the 4/3 rear's have to be removed for adjustment.

So for the fronts, you face the adjustment window in a manner so it is easy to get to (e.g. facing forward would allow access while can is on ramps...)... is this how I would do it...?

This is the compressor I got from ebay for about $70 (see pic).


How many inches do you measure from the top of each wheel arch lip to the ground... on my stock WS6 I measure 26.0" all around (there's a big gap to the tire... looks horrible 4x4 style... yuk...).

Thanks,
Joe
:cheers:

Edit:I mistyped 26" instead of 28".

[CoryF]

Yes to adjust the 4/4's all you have to do is fold down the seat and pull up the little carpet flaps on each side. I guess the 3/4's is to pull them off the car. On the fronts I put the window so it was facing out. I haven't used a spring compressor like that but I don't see a problem. :)

17" Rims, 275/40/17 Tires
Front:
Ground to top of tire: 25"
Ground to the arc of the fender: 26.25"
Rear:
Ground to top of tire: 25"
Ground to the arc of the fender: 25.75"

It is dark out, and I didn't use a laser level or anything, but the measurements should be pretty close. Every car is a little different but it should fall into that area. PM me if you want and I will take some pictures and email em to ya. :)

P.S. I don't know how often you work on cars, and need specialty tools but the Autozone/Checker etc here in AZ rent tools for free :D


-CoryF

[joecar]

Ooops... I meant I measured 28.0" stock (not 26.0")...

You can see that at 28" I got quite a gap...!!! :bad:

I work on em all the time... I accumulate tools (I have nothing better to do...)... :D

[CoryF]

Ya I HATED the stock gap on my camaro, the lower perch was enough to make it look great, and the shocks are amazing. Best of both worlds!