ASR randomly turns off

[CoryF]

Okay so I've got a problem and I've been fighting it for like 2 days so I figured I'd come to you guys for some help. :) I recently put a cam in my car ( 227/231 .614/.617 111+4 ) When I put in the cam I also sent out my throttle body to be ported and polished. When the cam was first put in it wouldn't idle. My friend had the great idea of drilling the hole out bigger :wallbash: So we drilled it out to about 7/32 ish. Now it idles fine at first, but after driving for a while and getting the RPM's kinda high the idle will slowly climb up, and after like 20 minutes of "regular" driving it will be at like 2,000. Then when I'm driving I will get the cruise control affect.

Another thing that happens is the ASR will randomly turn off, I have been unable to pin point what causes this, but I was able to grab the SES light codes while it was off, see attached image. After the ASR turns off the car wont idle for crap. I feel like an idiot sittin at a red light in a nice car idling at 2,300rpm.

Right now the PCM is loaded with a MAFless AutoVE tune, because I'm trying to get my fuel tables close with the new cam. So that is why the MAF codes are thrown. But it is IMPOSSIBLE to tune a car that doesn't have a constant idle. The AutoVE will get me close, and then the idle will act up and everything goes downhill from there. I'm thinking that I need to get a decent idle first before I try and mess with the fuel tables. On Monday I am going to find someone with a aluminum welder that can close the hole so I can redrill to the stock size, and then use the set screw to adjust. I don't think that drilling the hole bigger would cause the Traction control to turn off...

Guys I really need some help here I'm stumped. :help2:

Attached SES Codes ---> 3991

Thanks,
-CoryF

[roy]

Have you tested your TPS ?

[CoryF]

After my classes this afternoon I am going to go out and warm the car up and find out what the current IAC steps are, and also the TPS voltage. I will post up that information as soon as I get it. Hopefully that will help fill in some of the blanks.

Thanks,
-CoryF

[CoryF]

Alright I'd rather figure this out and be a little late to class :) Here is what i got.

Conditions:
-Engine Coolant Temperature: 207*F 97.2*C
-Desired Idle Speed: AC off=875 AC on=975
-Intake Temperature: ~87*F ~30.5*C

Data:
IAC Steps @ Idle w/ AC off: 2
IAC Steps @ Idle w/ AC on: 61
TPS @ 00.4% = 0.6V (Min, foot off the pedal)
TPS @ 50.6% = 2.4V (~half throttle)
TPS @ 99.0% = 4.1V (Max, pedal to the floor)


I hope this helps guys. I turned the set screw around about 2 days ago so this data was pulled with it about 1/8 turn out. let me know if there is something else I should log. I will also post up a copy of the current tune I am using. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!

Current AutoVE tune --> 3997

Thanks,
-CoryF

[CoryF]

Okay so I went out tonight and put a small piece of duct tape over the hole and recorded some more data. Here is what I've got with the hole closed off.

Conditions:
-Engine Coolant Temperature: 200*F 93.3*C
-Desired Idle Speed: AC off=875 AC on=975
-Intake Temperature: ~75*F ~23.8*C

Data:
IAC Steps @ Idle w/ AC off: 68
IAC Steps @ Idle w/ AC on: 133
TPS @ 00.4% = 0.6V (Min, foot off the pedal)
TPS @ 50.6% = 2.4V (~half throttle)
TPS @ 99.0% = 4.1V (Max, pedal to the floor)


I hope this helps guys. I also found a drill bit set and measured the hole in the throttle body. It turned out to be a 7/32" hole. From what I have found in other posts and from research, it looks like my hole is too big. The numbers seem much more "reasonable" with the hole totally shut... I didn't drive it with the hole closed, so I don't know how the drivability was. It seems that I should be looking a little harder for an aluminum welder. :hihi:

Another thing that I wonder about is when I turned the set screw around, how do I know that the blade is strait up and down. I understand that this is a adjust, test, adjust, test... kinda deal but I think that if the hole is too big in the blade then I'm wasting time because there will always be too much air getting in no matter how much I adjust it.

I would still love to hear from others, and see what they think. I don't want to be spoon fed the answers, but at this point I need a shove in the right direction. Any help is appreciated. :)


Thanks,
-CoryF

[joecar]

I'm reading along. :cheers:

[CoryF]

I have found someone with a welder but they cant get it done till Thursday. :bawl:

Does anyone have any input on where I should aim for my IAC steps to be? The mods that are done to the car are in my signature. Most places I have read say between 60-70 with AC off. Since the limits are 0-160 wouldn't I want to be right around 80 so that the value can travel both ways equal amounts... (that is what makes sense to me lol )

Also while I'm waiting for the welder, I would really appreciate it if someone could take a glance through the tune that I posted up a few posts back, just to make sure nothing is gonna blow up. :mrgreen: I just wanna know if what I got so far looks good. :grin:

Thursday after I get the blade welded and re-drilled, I'll post up where I'm at and if it helped fix the idle/traction control issues I am having.

Thanks,
-CoryF

[5.7ute]

CoryF. Any where around 60 steps is where you want to aim for hot AC off. The reason being is this is where the IAC motor has greater control over airflow due to the pintle design. Once over about 120 steps there is very little control left as the seat is fully uncovered.

[joecar]

...

Another thing that happens is the ASR will randomly turn off, I have been unable to pin point what causes this, but I was able to grab the SES light codes while it was off, see attached image. After the ASR turns off the car wont idle for crap.

...Hi Cory,

Have you checked the wiring for the TPS sensor...?
Have you checked for correct behaviour of the TPS sensor by viewing the TPS pid...?

The PCM and the ABS controllers both share the TPS signal...

The DTC pic shows P0122, P1122, C0237... both PCM and ABS controllers agree that there is a problem with the TPS signal.

Also, check all the fuses.

[joecar]

I heard/read somewhere that it is preferable to not enlarge the hole as this removes control over the air "leaking" thru it... IAC closes all the way but too much air is still getting thru... posts #4 and #5 show this (IAC Steps 2 -> IAC passage is closed; IAC Steps 68 -> midway open as 5.7ute/Mick said).

[joecar]

Some comments on your tune file (from post #4):
- VE table may have been increased too much initially.
- Since your PE is EQ1.00 (AFR14.63) then set the upper MAP columns of B3605 a little richer (say EQ1.14 (AFR12.83)) just to be safe from damage.
- be aware that your stoich AFR is 14.63 (see B3601)... (some calibrations use 14.68).

[CoryF]

Have you checked the wiring for the TPS sensor...?
Have you checked for correct behaviour of the TPS sensor by viewing the TPS pid...?

First off thank you everyone for the support. :) JoeCar I went out tonight and checked all the wires and fuses and they are all in good shape. Since this was the case I figured I might as well use the sweet software that I bought, and test the TPS voltage. First off let me say that the uses for EFILive are ENDLESS. I started off by making a map to record the TPS Voltage for the different Throttle percentages. Then I recorded a log, (with the car off :) )

The Log --> 4010

Then I took the data from the log and placed it into a spread sheet and made a graph.

Spread sheet --> 4012 . Graph --> 4011

From this data it seems that the TPS Sensor is in working condition.

Thanks,
-CoryF

[ItzNota]

Argh...dude, buy a new TB.
I see a huge headache for you coming with this.

[CoryF]

Argh...dude, buy a new TB.
I see a huge headache for you coming with this.

HAHAHA I thought about buying a new TB, because I am feeling the headache coming from this.:grin:
BUT!
I think I may have found the problem last night. It is kinda hard to see from the graph but when the blade was shut the TPS Voltage was resting at what the computer would round to 0.7V or 0.8V which is read as ~0.7% throttle. It this point I thought that the set screw wouldn't go any further but I pulled it out and sanded the top where it threads in just a little to remove the burrs from when it was threaded and was able to get the screw in a bit deeper. Now I was able to set the TPS voltage at 0.549V which reads as 0.0% throttle and I took her out to do some AutoVE tuning and the idle was simply amazing. 110% better, it took a bit for it to learn the RPM's, control the ramp down and rolling in neutral. But after the drive I was VERY impressed with the idle.

I have not had a chance to go out and check the IAC steps yet, but I plan on doing that today to find out for sure if I need to have the TB hole welded and drilled smaller.

Now if I could just snap my fingers and have a perfect MainVE Table, I would be one hell of a happy camper, doin my happy dance! :banana:

I'll post up more information as I find it. Oh ya JoeCar thank you for the input on the tune. I increased the MainVE my 15% like the tutorial said the first time, last night I loaded a stock one increased by 5% and it ran much better, so I've been fighting too much fuel for like 16+ StreetAutoVE tunes now. Live and you learn... :) Thanks guys for the continued support.

Thanks,
-CoryF