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nitrorocket
September 4th, 2005, 11:27 AM
My ls1 in my 71 chevelle does not run! :bang: I am not getting a crank signal, there is no power through the green wire. :confused:

I tried "VAT RELINK" But when I try it say "Locked with custom key" And that I need commercial flashscan. I ordered commercial, Ho can I tell If recieved the correct software?

I do not have a BCM, does this matter?

GMPX
September 4th, 2005, 12:31 PM
My ls1 in my 71 chevelle does not run! :bang: I am not getting a crank signal, there is no power through the green wire. :confused:

I tried "VAT RELINK" But when I try it say "Locked with custom key" And that I need commercial flashscan. I ordered commercial, Ho can I tell If recieved the correct software?

I do not have a BCM, does this matter?

Locked with custom key means the PCM 'may' have been tuned before and the unlock codes used to read/write and reset the VATS have been changed. Can you read the PCM?.
Normally even with Anti-Theft active the engine will fire then quit after 1/2 sec or less, but it will fire.

Cheers,
Ross

nitrorocket
September 4th, 2005, 12:49 PM
I can read the pcm. I even flashed it?? There is absolutly no power to the crank sensor through the green B+ wire to it. The pcm is not letting power to the crank sensor?

Blacky
September 4th, 2005, 02:57 PM
I tried "VAT RELINK" But when I try it say "Locked with custom key" And that I need commercial flashscan. I ordered commercial, Ho can I tell If recieved the correct software?

There is a timing issue with V7.2.2 of EFILive that can cause EFILive to show the PCM as locked when it is not. The current (V7.3) version has fixed that problem.
Are you running the latest V7.3 pre-release version, available here?
http://www.efilive.com/downloads/downloads_730.html

If you are still running V7.2.2, then I think that you either have to hit the [VAT relink] button within 5 seconds of opening the security window, or after 5 seconds, I can't remember which one.

Regards
Paul

nitrorocket
September 4th, 2005, 05:38 PM
Here is the deal. How can I get the green wire (B+) to the crank positiion sensor to have power. It has to be a setting in the pcm. What would or could cause this wire coming from the pcm not to have power? I will ry the unlosk thing tomorrow, Does this cause this problem? I need help A.S.A.P.!! Please help!

Delco
September 4th, 2005, 06:33 PM
Here is the deal. How can I get the green wire (B+) to the crank positiion sensor to have power. It has to be a setting in the pcm. What would or could cause this wire coming from the pcm not to have power? I will ry the unlosk thing tomorrow, Does this cause this problem? I need help A.S.A.P.!! Please help!

Was the car running properly before you read and modified the PCM ?

If yes then it must be a vats issue , if no then it could be any number of issues , really need to check all the info.

if it is a Vats issue I would suspect it will throw a link error code

nitrorocket
September 5th, 2005, 02:52 AM
The camaro was running properly before I put it in my chevelle. I completely modified the harness because I didn't need half the wires for my car.

Either the pcm somehow went bad, or the pcm is not giving power to the green wire for some wierd unknown reason. I don't get it?

I was tempted to just cut the wire and run it to switched power, but I want to fix the problem correctly.

That VAT RELINK , should I try that again even though I do not have a BCM???

joecar
September 5th, 2005, 06:24 AM
I think you may have a problem in your harness;
a. did you probe the CKP +12V wire (thru the insulation) near the PCM with key on and see 12V...?
b. did you disconnect harness from PCM and ohm same wire for being not shorted to ground...?

Without the Theft Deterent Fuel Enable Control signal (5kHz square wave), the PCM will cut fuel; the PCM does not cut power to the sensors.

Edit: In another post you said you disabled VAT.

Here's an excerpt from the '01 F-body service manual (see Body Control Module):



Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Description and Operation

Passkey System

The personal automotive security system (PASS-Key®) is standard equipment on the vehicle. The system is designed to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the engine unless an ignition key with a specific electrical resistance is used in the ignition cylinder.

There are 15 different ignition key resistance values. Of the 15 different resistance values, or key codes available, only 1 will work with each body control module (BCM). Once the key code is programmed into the BCM, the code is stored in non-volatile memory.

The PASS-Key® system prevents the engine from starting by controlling the starter relay and the powertrain control module (PCM) fuel enable input. If the PCM does not sense the proper fuel enable signal, fuel will not be provided to the engine.

If the wrong resistance value is sensed when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will not ground the starter relay control circuit and will not provide the fuel enable signal for approximately 3 minutes. The engine is prevented from starting and discourages a thief from trying key codes or resistance values at random.

If the correct resistance value is sensed when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will ground the starter relay control circuit and will send a fuel enable signal to the PCM. The engine will start normally.

If the PASS-Key® system detects an open or short to ground when the ignition switch is in the ON position, the BCM will default to fail enable mode. Fail enable occurs when the proper key resistance is sensed before the open or short to ground occurs. Fail enable will illuminate the security indicator lamp and allow the operator to start the vehicle until the problem is corrected. There is no VTD protection in fail enable mode. The PASS-Key® system includes the following components:

* Ignition key
* Ignition cylinder
* Body control module (BCM)
* Starter relay
* Powertrain control module (PCM)
* SECURITY indicator

Ignition Key

The ignition key is a typical square ignition key blank with an imbedded resistor. The key blank and resistor are not serviceable separately. There are 15 different resistance values. The ignition key also has mechanical cuts similar to non-PASS-Key® ignition keys.

Ignition Cylinder

The ignition cylinder contains a set of electrical contacts used to measure the resistor in the ignition key. When the ignition key is inserted into the lock cylinder, the resistor in the key makes contact with the electrical contacts inside the ignition cylinder.

Body Control Module

The body control module (BCM) contains the theft deterrent system logic. The BCM reads the key code from the ignition cylinder when the ignition is turned to the START position. If the code is correct, the BCM will enable the starter relay and will send a fuel enable signal to the PCM.

If the BCM receives the wrong code, the BCM will immediately go into tamper mode. The tamper mode will lock-out the vehicle starter and fuel injectors for 3 minutes. The SECURITY indicator will flash while the BCM is in tamper mode.

Starter Relay

The starter relay is used to prevent the engine from cranking if the correct resistance is not sensed at the ignition key. It prevents the engine from cranking by opening the ground circuit to the starter solenoid.

Powertrain Control Module

The PCM communicates with the BCM through the class 2 serial data circuit. When the BCM enters tamper mode, it sends a message to the PCM in order to disable the fuel injection system. If the BCM receives the expected ignition code, the BCM sends a message to the PCM in order to enable the fuel injection system. The PCM then allows the vehicle to start.

SECURITY Indicator

The SECURITY indicator is located on the instrument cluster. The SECURITY indicator is controlled by the BCM. The SECURITY indicator will illuminate on IPC system prove out, when an incorrect key is used to attempt to start the vehicle, or when fail enable mode is active.

wait4me
September 5th, 2005, 06:26 AM
Vat relink has nothing to do with your vehicle since it is a street rod.

You can turn off the vehicle anti theft in your computer so a vats relink is not needed.

As for the commercial license, I sent it to you via email as soon as i recieved the upgrade code, You need to put that registration information into the software from that email. Then your commercial version will be set up.

As for jumping that wire to the crank trigger.

That would be a bad idea.

To make sure your harness is correct,
you need to verify that the orange wires going into the computer all have 12 volts when the the key is on or off

Then, there are 4 to 5 pink wires you would have had to connect to ignition. To test each one to see if there is power, you have to test each pink wire in the harness and make sure it gets power when the key is on, and ALSO while cranking..

If the vehicle starts for a second, then shuts down, then it is a Vats problem.

If the vehicle does not start at all, then it is something else. Could even be a bad or miss hooked up injector driver,

I think that crank triger works off of a 5volt system, not the 12. so it would fry your sensor instantly....

I just got back from the nationals, so ill be around to help after i get caught up today.

nitrorocket
September 5th, 2005, 07:52 AM
I check all power wires for power to the pcm and they are o.k. I believe there were 2 orange on the blue harness only. They have power. I am going to take the connector off the pcm and take a look once. If nothing wrong there, I am at a loss! I checked the wire on my '04 truck and it has 12 volts to the sensor.

Wait4me, you said you emailed me? When exactly.

wait4me
September 5th, 2005, 08:25 AM
Did you do a resistance test from pin 2 on the blue connector to the pin that has the green wire on it on the crank trigger? Also, Are you using a computer that works with your harness? 99 to 02, or 03 to 05?

Is the base file you are using for a car that has cable throttle? or fly by wire?

If that pcm is not feeding a power to pin 2 on the blue connector, then it is not powering up on the ignition outputs, So it would probably be an ignition wire problem. or, the three grounds on the back of the head are not hooked up???

Did you check all the pinks yet? and how many of them did you hook up to igniton?

Email me your serial number and ill resend your commercial upgraded email, Thanks,

nitrorocket
September 5th, 2005, 10:23 AM
Wait4me, I sent email!

It runs!! I found a broken wire of all things! Now I just hope I can get some tuning help real soon. Thanks!

Delco
September 5th, 2005, 01:30 PM
Wait4me, I sent email!

It runs!! I found a broken wire of all things! Now I just hope I can get some tuning help real soon. Thanks!

NO SHIT :lol: , problems normally stem from the last thing that happened , in your case transplanting a engine and cutting wires.

ALWAYS WHEN DOING SOMETHING LIKE THAT DO ONE CHANGE AT A TIME SO YOU CAN EASILY TRACK DOWN WHERE THE FAULT ORIGINATED FROM.

Most important when you ar etuning , make small changes and monitor the effects before diving in head first.

joecar
September 6th, 2005, 03:15 AM
It runs!! I found a broken wire of all things! Now I just hope I can get some tuning help real soon. Thanks!
We want to know...
Which wire was broken...?
Was it the green wire on the crank sensor (CKP +12V)...?
Was it the switched ignition power wire...?

Delco has very good advice.