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View Full Version : Cold start great but warm start sucks."Idle



mvvette97
October 13th, 2008, 03:32 PM
I have a 228/230 cam with full boltons. It starts right up and idles great cold but after it's warmed up if I turn it off and restart it I have to feather the throttle for about 10 seconds before it will idle. After it has learned how to idle it's fine and will never die at stops or anything. It's just when ya first start it after it warmed up. Any ideas what tables I should be looking at to correct this? thanks

mvvette97
October 13th, 2008, 06:21 PM
Here is the tune

5.7ute
October 13th, 2008, 06:50 PM
Take a look here. http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=9127&page=5&highlight=start+table
It contains a link to one of Marcins spreadsheets that has helped others with warm start issues.

Goldfinger911
October 13th, 2008, 07:13 PM
Your Idle|Desired Airflow curve is almost too smooth. Was this done by hand, or are the values based on logging RAFIG from a cold start to full warm idle?

Also, when your idling fully warmed up (over 80c)... how many steps is your IAC open in the logs?

hquick
October 14th, 2008, 07:28 AM
Unfortunately that table of Marcin's didn't fix my warm start/re-start issues.
Still stalls unless I feather the throttle on a warm restart.

Aloicious
October 14th, 2008, 08:14 AM
Unfortunately that table of Marcin's didn't fix my warm start/re-start issues.
Still stalls unless I feather the throttle on a warm restart.

that sucks, I wonder if your whipple is throwing things off for the spreadsheet to work correctly (higher MAP when starting over N/A??). it did help mine and it hasn't given me any starting problems since then cold or warm.

part of the issue with my cranking VE table is that the stock '02 Xvan tune that my tune is based off of was just a flat 1.8 across the entire cranking VE table. it worked okay stock, but once I put in my cam and swaped intakes it wasn't right, I originally had to increase it to 2.2 across the board to have decent starts, then after using Marcin's table its at a good slope, starting around 1.2 at the very low end, and slopes up to around 2.3-2.4. it's helped tremendously for my setup. I'd say give it a shot.

EDIT - Hey howard, were you able to try the true OL settings in your COS 3? I'm curious if it worked or not for you. mine's still doing good, several more logs, and no trims, even checked it with my handheld code reader that can pull up live data, and it confirms no trims.

hquick
October 14th, 2008, 08:28 AM
Yeah....I'm running those settings at present. Just got back from a 2000km round trip....no issues (except stalling on a warm restart). Burb ran well.

Sid447
October 17th, 2008, 04:51 PM
I had hot re-start issues for four years or so.

Here in the Logic-Free Zone where ambient temps get pretty high. It took a lot of logging and tweaking to get where I am now which is hopefully clear of it!
In my case (just to compare notes) Cold starts, no problems at all.
Run the car to operating temp and then switch off. A re-start after any period of up to 2 hours or so would normally have the engine fire-up and then die after a few to several seconds.
Felt like a fuel vapour lock.
It finally fully went after at first utilising Holden GTS settings in {B3204} and {B3206} which helped.....and then at the last tweak entering some values into {B4342} (this table had been all zeroes before).

joecar
October 17th, 2008, 05:17 PM
Sid, good job...:cheers:

mvvette97
October 17th, 2008, 06:17 PM
I can't even find a table B4342:confused:

Sid447
October 25th, 2008, 11:13 PM
I can't even find a table B4342:confused:

It's under Idle, Start-up section then 3rd one down (after "parameters" and Startup Airflow Correction).

It's labelled "Startup Airflow Delay."

ringram
October 26th, 2008, 12:22 AM
I had a similar issue and it required more airflow at startup at the particular ECT thats causing the problem, same as sid says, Airflow correction, in mine its B4343