Can you look at my Log

[SRT10KLLR]

I went to the track this weekend and managed 13.999 in my 2003 RC Silverado. A wanted to see if someone could look at my log of the run and make some suggestions. Any help would bee appreciated.

The truck was dyno tuned previously but I switched heads to increase cr a little and did not have a chance to re-tune. A buddy at the track just increased the VE table a bit and the MAF.

I have attached the log below.

[SRT10KLLR]

Anyone?:help2:

[Goldfinger911]

What are the specs of your setup? Engine, cam, intake, injectors, power adders, etc?

I am not a "truck guy" however it looks like you way low on WOT timing. WOT, 5000+ rpm you are at only 12.5 deg of advance? Then it looks like you shift and RPM's drop to 4200rpm and then you command 16 degrees.

Also, when you sitting still idling your timing is jumping all over the place... then when you roll up to the beams, it stabilizes. Does it idle good? Not necessarily wrong, just something I noticed. As a point of comparisan, my car has a pretty large cam in it, and at idle my RPM bounces +/-75rpm and my timing fluctuates maybe .5 to 1.0 degrees is all.

[SRT10KLLR]

I have a 6.0L stroked/forged and bored .030 over to make a 408ci(6.7L), cam is 224/231 .595/.595 114 LSA, stock truck intake, stock exhaust except for no cats, custom 63.4 lb/hr(3 bar - 43.5 PSI) Multech truck injectors. I plan on adding a turbo so the engine was built with a 8:1 cr but I switched heads to AFR 225's with a smaller combustion chamber to increase cr a little. I don't know what my new cr is but it is somewhere in the 8.8cr range. The turbo is not yet installed.

The idle dances and rocks the truck a little. I lifted due to traction issues in that log.

BTW, thanks for the help.

[Goldfinger911]

Hmmm.. Someone else might want to chime in with regards to timing. I know I run a lot more timing in my forged stroker, even on pump gas, but I am at 11.75:1 compression. I would think you could at least run 23 degrees safely on pump. Have you dyno'ed it?

The idle timing is an easy fix with some of the idle spark tables. I didnt see any Wideband AFR in the log, only commanded... did I just miss it?

What are you seeing when you run the truck? Bogging? stumbling, or is everything fine and youre just looking for advice.

You might want to post your tune so some of the experts can look at it. There are some really good guys (and girls) on this forum that have good eyes for that.

[BlackGMC]

Why did you shift at 5400? Also depending on what your IAT spark table looks like I bet your pulling a good deal of timing due to your high IAT temps.... Also your IDC is only like 32%, you sure your injector tables are set up correctly?

[SRT10KLLR]

Hmmm.. Someone else might want to chime in with regards to timing. I know I run a lot more timing in my forged stroker, even on pump gas, but I am at 11.75:1 compression. I would think you could at least run 23 degrees safely on pump. Have you dyno'ed it?

The idle timing is an easy fix with some of the idle spark tables. I didnt see any Wideband AFR in the log, only commanded... did I just miss it?

What are you seeing when you run the truck? Bogging? stumbling, or is everything fine and youre just looking for advice.

You might want to post your tune so some of the experts can look at it. There are some really good guys (and girls) on this forum that have good eyes for that.

I was dyno tuned but that was before I changed the heads to increase cr. I let a fellow forum member borrow my LM-1 about 6 months ago and have not got it back yet. :wallbash:

The truck seems to run fine with the exception of idle quality. I am just looking for advice and to see if anything seems out of the ordinary. Your suggestions like timing are greatly appreciated so keep them coming.


Why did you shift at 5400? Also depending on what your IAT spark table looks like I bet your pulling a good deal of timing due to your high IAT temps.... Also your IDC is only like 32%, you sure your injector tables are set up correctly?I have it set to shift at 5600 in Normal and Performance but the Hot is set to 5200. I don't know what it means by Hot though. :nixweiss:

The injectors are 73lbs in our trucks(58 PSI) so I am not yet pushing them to there limits as I haven't installed the turbo yet.


Attached is my tune:

[Goldfinger911]

Yeah, those injectors arent even breathing hard in that motor. Post your tune and we can look at it. Your idle should be an easy fix. There are enough idle-gurus around here you should get fixed up right. :)

With that timing you HAVE to be leaving some power on the table. Now, with a static CR os 8.5 or 9.0:1 your dynamic compression ratio will not be great, but it still shold respond well to timing adjustments. The last time I was at the dyno, with my smaller cam, I went from 26 to 27 degrees of timing at WOT and I gained 7 whp and 9.5 wtq. BlackGMC has a great point.... your IAT's look high too. Was it a hot day when you ran?

[SRT10KLLR]

Stepped out to vote.

I posted my tune above in post #7. I don't know why my IAT's are that high. It wasn't that hot out in fact it was overcast/partly cloudy most of the day with temps in the 70-80 range. I noticed that my IAT's went down during the run though maybe my sensor is bad or I should open my hood between runs. Also, I still have the stock thermostat on which is why my coolant temps are high too.

[Goldfinger911]

Oops. Sorry. Didnt see the tune attached before.

You are not commanding much timing at all when WOT to begin with... then your Spark IAT table is pulling timing on top of that. I would look at some tunes of similar setups and see what their general timing maps look like. Mine is a stroked LS1 with Z06 (243) heads so there will be differences.

Your idle can be tweaked a bit. Your Desired Airflow at Idle seems high. When fully warm, desired airflow is over 14 grams. Has the RAFIG/RAFPN process been done after VE was tuned? Also, you can smooth out things by tweaking the idle spark overspeed and underspeed tables. Even with a small idle fluctuation, they alter timing quite a bit in this tune.

If you want to examples, check my tune. (linked in my signature above).

How close if your VE when driving normally and when at WOT?

[SRT10KLLR]

Sorry about the late reply but I was at SEMA.

Any ways, when I got dyno tuned adding more timing was not adding any hp/tq. Now that my cr changed that may not be the case anymore.

My LTFT's were in the +/-1% range before but now with my new heads it was +17-20%. We added some fuel to be safe but with no wideband hooked up it was like flying blind.

What is the RAFIG/RAFPN process? And how much should I lower my desired airflow, idle spark overspeed and underspeed tables?

[SSpdDmon]

Tuning without a WB - http://www.motownmuscle.com/forums/images/smilies/shake.gif

RAFIG/PN and idle - http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661

I still haven't had a chance to look at your log. But unless idle is giving you a lot of shit, you probably won't have to do most of what's in my tutorial. The RAFIG/PN process is always good to do no matter what though.

Some things to keep in mind:

Assuming this build is waiting on a turbo, it's probably low compression, right? If that's the case, it's not going to make the same power as a normal N/A block. Pretty much a given. Normal N/A LS-based motors usually run ~27* of timing with aftermarket head/cam setups. At least, that's usually a good average. Some take less, some take more. How you're pre-turbo setup will run - IDK. Regardless, I have to ask - why are you spending so much effort to get it to run balls out before the turbo is installed? If you're working on idle or part throttle drive-ability, I get it. Otherwise, I'm at a loss here...

[SRT10KLLR]

Tuning without a WB - http://www.motownmuscle.com/forums/images/smilies/shake.gif

RAFIG/PN and idle - http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661

I still haven't had a chance to look at your log. But unless idle is giving you a lot of shit, you probably won't have to do most of what's in my tutorial. The RAFIG/PN process is always good to do no matter what though.

Some things to keep in mind:

Assuming this build is waiting on a turbo, it's probably low compression, right? If that's the case, it's not going to make the same power as a normal N/A block. Pretty much a given. Normal N/A LS-based motors usually run ~27* of timing with aftermarket head/cam setups. At least, that's usually a good average. Some take less, some take more. How you're pre-turbo setup will run - IDK. Regardless, I have to ask - why are you spending so much effort to get it to run balls out before the turbo is installed? If you're working on idle or part throttle drive-ability, I get it. Otherwise, I'm at a loss here...

I just want to know what it can do before I install the turbo. Plus it gives me a change to sort out other things like suspension and traction issues.

If I knew how to tune it would not even be an issue as I have plenty of time just don't have the knowledge yet. I can go out and drive and make adjustments until correct but I just know enough to get me in trouble at this point. This will help me learn the process so I can later apply it to me other vehicles and hopefully my SD tune once the turbo goes on.

[SRT10KLLR]

SSpdDmon did you get a chance to look at my tune?

I looked at my log and it looks like I was running 150F IAT's which is why my timing was so low. I can turn that off in my tune but I would rather do the IAT mod that separates the IAT from my MAF to get real air temp not just heat soak.

[SSpdDmon]

SSpdDmon did you get a chance to look at my tune?

I looked at my log and it looks like I was running 150F IAT's which is why my timing was so low. I can turn that off in my tune but I would rather do the IAT mod that separates the IAT from my MAF to get real air temp not just heat soak.
No chance. But, if you're seeing 150*F IAT's, I'd say that's a part of your problem. Relocating your IAT might be necessary before the turbo - definitely will have to be done with the turbo. Sounds like you've got some serious heat soaking going on. It's best to get the mechanical side right before trying to tune. Otherwise, it's just a band-aid on the true problem.