My First Engine Tune (i'm excited)

[Gordon0652]

Good Evening! :welcome:
About a half an hour ago i finished my MS4 cam install with the supporting mods & underdrive pulley. Started it up and it sounds amazing!
Tomorrow i will have the car on the dyno and record some information on the EFIlive Scan. (i will dyno it in all gears with with the torque converter locked - if thats what i should do) The car is running really hard (rich, bad idle, ect.) of course, it doesn't have the proper tune. :doh2:
I will follow the "> > > General Tuning Information < < <" and see what i can do. I am very new to this,(:help2:) and the whole purpose for the cam is so that i can understand and learn how to use EFIlive.
So far the car has full exhaust, and intake lid. It has been tuned for these bolt-on thanks to a person who is a member on this board - thank you :].
Anyways after i dyno the car and record the PIDs i will post the run on here, and i would like to get some suggestions if you all can help out. I will have an LM-1 recording the AFR and that is sinked with EFIlive and calibrated.

Thank you, and i look forward to hearing from you all if you can help :cheers: (& i hope i am not stepping on anybody toes).

-Kenny

[Naf]

I am with you on the tunin side, but i feel its best when you install your own o2 sensor on the car and log while you drive normally...Dynos are great for top end tunin, but everything below 3000rpm ends up being ignored.

Upload your current tune, then drive around while the car is on its own CLOSED loop...If you notice Long term fuel trim going past 10, drive easy for you are super lean...Personally the AutoVe didnt help me much...Compared to my current setup, it lead me down the wrong path, but its not a set rule..Others have had success stories with the AutoVe...

Record all your changes and change one thing at a time...Dont mess with timin MAP MAF and PE all at the same time. I learn that fast, i played with too many variables and got a bad run, and didnt know what it was till i reduced the changes...

Also look up the Holden list of Tunes, you might find one similar to yours to run with...

Because my Tahoe is a LM7 lower end with LS6 Heads and Cam as well as the LS2 SSR intake i copied the timin table, but merged the MAP of the two...I tweaked the MAF and PE and so far i am runnin pretty well...My LTFT is in the low single digits and KR is less then 1 in some low rpm areas...

Enjoy the tunin, and follow one technique, dont rush and always listen to others, one day you may be the guy givin the advice...

[joecar]

Kenny, let us know how it goes.

What tranmission do you have...?

At any time during tuning, pay attention to trans shift feel (i.e. you have to take it out on the street)... if at any time it softens up, then this is an indicator that the VE or MAF (whichever you're tuning) is going too low... this is serious for the trans... you may need to recaluate the IFR and start again.

[Gordon0652]

I have the 4L60E, and so far the car has been on the Dyno only because i need to work out a few things first.
Today was the big day to run the car on the dyno. The cam is broken in and i did a dyno run. It made 388rwhp and 354rwtq which impressed me. I will post the dyno sheet because it drops in some places.
So heres what i have noticed my AFR is running so damn rich, sometimes it will stay at 11.1:1 and will never go higher than 13:1. My car will hold an idle after i rev it up on start up and slowly let it down.
What i need to know is i am looking at some of the stickies and i still can not figure out how to
1. Control my AFR
2. Have a proper start up (where i do not have to give it gas and slowly let off)

I want to work on the start up first.
Then i would like to learn how to change my AFR to be desired.
Here is a scan of my car when it was on the dyno. The scan was just me showing the idle and what i have to do so that it doesn't stall. and the other part is the horrible AFR.

[Gordon0652]

From some reading it looks like i have to add some air to the cylinders so i will be working in Airflow>Main VE Table and raising the % of airflow up some more until i get the desired AFR.
Then off to VE While Cranking to help out with the start of the engine.
I am sure this will take me all day so i will write back here when i am done for the day & hopefully accomplished something...

[joecar]

Does B4001 match your injectors...?

Can you do a quick pass of AutoVE to get B0101 close...?
This will get the wideband AFR closer to the commanded AFR, which means you can set a suitable AFR via B3618 and B3605/B3647.

What OS...?
What car/mods...?

Cheers
Joe
:cheers:

[Gordon0652]

Yes B4001 does match my injectors.
I was working on the AutoVE and i still am, should i set up the table it tells me so that i get a cell count or skip over that and close the loop?
The car is a 2000 T/A with Longtube headers, Y-pipe w/ high flow cats, Catback exhaust, Lid, underdrive pulley, MS4 camshaft, and springs (with the supporting mods).
The car is tuned for the exhaust and intake lid by a member on this board.
I want to tune the camshaft.

I tried working with:
B0101, increased by 10%
B3605, increased by 5%
That did bring the AFR up and it idled when the motor was cold but when the car was at operating temp it had a very hard time idling and stalled. (i was just messing around, i know i probably shouldnt have messed with thoes first)

[joecar]

Get the BEN cellcount, and use the average/filtered BENs to multiply-paste into the VE table (in OLSD mode as per AutoVE, with no COTS/DFCO)...
this will then make your OL B3605/B3618 show up on your wideband... i.e. WYSIWYG...
this will allow you to set your AFR with confidence...
and it gets you the right cell in the spark tables (since they are indexed by dyncylair_dma).

[Gordon0652]

So today i used AutoVE and it had some effect which i was looking for.
Few things i still am working on (hints please)
1. When i lift my foot off gas when the car is at 2500+rpm at any speed i become extreamly lean
2. My cold start up & cold idle is still running very rich.
3. Hot idle AFR is a 13.9

[joecar]

1. Do you have DFCO disabled... and/or filtered out...?

[Gordon0652]

Quick question:
How do i know if the loop is closed at AFR 14.63 ?
Where do i look so i can find out what my WOT, or PE AFR is?

[joecar]

The pid FUELSYS will indicate CL mode.

The pid AFR will show all the AFR's...

You'll see FULESYS A/B say CL and AFR will read 14.63 flat.

B3618 is the PE AFR.
B3605 last 2 columns are the WOT non-PE AFR's.

[Gordon0652]

Okay, thank you!
Someone on LS1tech helped me out with my tune!
joecar, will you look at the tune and tell me what you think? Please.

[joecar]

Looks fine... how does it run (idle, PT, WOT, and up/down thru gears)...?

Set D0925-27 to less than D0910-12 by at least 5.
Set D0930-32 to less than D0915-17 by at least 5 also.

You may want to let the TCC apply in 3rd gear (set D1005 to less than D1002).

If you disabled the AIR pump, then make sure to physically remove the AIR pump and all the associated plumbing (otherwise the plumbing will accumulate water which will drain out thru the AIR pump electric motor).

Are you monitoring the AFR at WOT...?
Are you monitoring for spark knock...?

Post some logs.

[Gordon0652]

Heres the posts of the Start up and Dyno run w/ 3rd gear locked and TCC locked.
It looks like when i am in PE the AFR does not drop as much as it should...