Spraying for First Time

So I have ordered a Nitrous Outlet wet plate kit for my LS2, this one http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=9623

I'm just running shit through my head regarding setup so let me know if I'm heading in the wrong direction.

Vehicle: VE HSV R8 M6 Clubsport 2007 20th Anniversary

Current engine setup: LS2 GenIV E38pcm Mafless SD Tune

25% Underdrive pulley, pinned to crank snout and using ARP bolt. Comp Cams manually adjusted belt adjuster.
RM Double row timing chain.
CC 231 237 598 595 112+2 XER lobes
LS7 Lifters
PG .650" double valve springs etc.. etc..
Comp Cams pushrods
Comp Cams rocker arm trunion upgrade kit.
Manley valves
Hand ported 243 casting heads, retained 64cc chambers.
ARP head stud kit.
Cometic head gaskets, stock .051" sizing.
Fast LSXR 102mm intake manifold. Stock 90mm TB.
Fast 46Lbs injectors.
Orssom OTR CAI.
LT headers 100 cpsi cats, twin 2.5" catback
Textralia Z grip clutch.
Ripshifter
Stock fuel pump
Stock rotating assy

As you would imagine the vehicle is fun to drive and very streetable, mrs drives this to get coffee & milk from the local store.

As this kit is a wet kit would the stock fuel pump be upto the job? My initial starting point would only be 50hp(I like to start conservatively), 75hp then 100hp. I realise I still need to plumb into my fuel system but I tune the afr's with the fuel jet right?

I change my tune file to the COS right and perform the e38 pin 56 12v apply to activate the other timing tables when spraying. So to do that I can wire the solenoids to a relay, then through to pin 56? So this is how I see it, system arm-->Window switch activation @ set rpm (3000-3500rpm) Window switch activation@set gear-->Pin 56 is applied 12v-->tune is now using other timing table.

With the other timing table can I simply copy my Hi table and reduce timing by 2* every 50hp?

Spark plugs I need to go colder and the kit comes with TR6's but some people are saying to use BR7EF's and gap them from anywhere between .036 to .032 depending on hp? Your thoughts?

I know there are other settings in the tune I need to adjust and that isn't a problem.

I can't say what the torque and hp of the vehicle is at the moment but what is the stock rot assy and bottom end good for?

I appreciate anyones constructive input.

Ok so near f... up already I said apply 12v power to pin 56 but that was for COS5, E38 is C1-05. I have copied over my IFB {B4001} to IFB Alternate Fuel {A9972}.
I have copied over PE Commanded fuel {B3618} to PE E80 Commanded {B3670}.
{B0178} Changed to "Yes".
{B0184} Changed to "Actual Sensor}.
{B3671} I changed the entire table to reflect 14.68:1. Blendings are also done.
DTC's are set.
What's the go with {B5114} Flex fuel spark. The description says "this table will alter the spark values from{B5101}. Does that mean it will subtract it from, so for example If I had 22.5 degrees in the high octane table @ cell 4800rpm and I had 2 degrees at that same cell in the flex fuel spark table it would subtract 2 degrees leaving me with 20.5 for that cell whilst I was spraying? or do I copy over my hi octane table to {B5114} and just reduce timing in my spray window?

I have not done nitrous on an E38 pcm yet. But i think you will find you must earth the pin for the nitrous tables to be functional, the same as the earlier pcm,s. Do not apply 12v.

Cheers 5.7ute, ok need someone who has done this with e38 to confirm apply 12v or earth it.