More newbie LC-1 hookup questions

I've been reading alot of posts in the forum and I notice there are ways to put the controller sensor in an existing exhaust hole and set up the exposed sensor for it.

If I have a separate exhaust thread installed,

Does the sensor stay in the exhaust at all times or do I remove it after the tune is where I want it?

IF the sensor should be only hooked up during tune modifications, isnt this alot of work wiring the LC-1 into the cab?

Is there extra wire and splicing needed for this setup?

Do I have to connect the LC-1 to a 12v ignition source?

Thanks

have ya ever hooked up any electronics? It is prety straight forward installation. I permanently mounted mine but you could remove it after each tune. The sensors are designed for constant use but if I can find a cover for the LC1 then I may remove the sensor to save it's useful life. Otherwise expect to replace it in x number of miles (anyone know what x is?).

here's some pics of my ghetto fab installation...

http://www.tallyspeed.com/phpBB/file...1sep05_109.jpg

http://www.tallyspeed.com/phpBB/file...1sep05_163.jpg

I used a rs232 connector cause I am a UNIX admin and have bags of them. the LC1 signal wires are connected on pins 1-4 and I have lots of room to add other accessories. each system will get it's own cable which can be easily attached.

WBO2 sensor can stay in as long as you like
(some of us auto tune all the time (...use use FlashScan black box recording feature...)...);
or if you prefer, you can remove it after you are satisfied with your tune.

I cut up my LC-1 cable short and am in the process of splicing as follows:

a. from LC-1:
12V Power (Red),
Heater Ground (Blue),
Analog Out 1 (Yellow),
Analog Ground (Green)
all to an old NBO2 sensor connector (cut from a worn out NBO2 or from a header O2 extension cord);
this plugs into the vehicle harness in place of the NBO2, and supplies power and ground to LC-1;
LC-1 has NB simulation which behaves pretty much exactly as the NBO2.

b. from LC1:
Analog Out 2 (Brown),
Analog Ground (Green),
Calibration (Black),
System Ground (White)
all to a connector (waterproof trailer 4 way connector FEMALE, for example; I'm using both ends of an extra header O2 extension cable);
this connector will plug into the long cable as described in next step.

c. from connector MALE (which mates to b. above):
splice in to long cable (which I cut off from my LC-1...);
the Orange AD-FLashScan connector goes on the other end of this long cable (Aanalog Out 1, Analog Ground);
also, the calibration switch and LED can go on either end of this long cable (Calibration, System Ground) (inside car or outside car).
You can route this long cable thru one of the rubber plugs on the car floor and thru slit in carpet, or thru the auto trans shift lever cable
(above rear of transmission) and into car under console (...this is more work, but you can make it come out in console compartment, so it looks tidy).

d. from FEMALE connector (at LC-1), tie System Ground (White) and Analog Ground (Green) together.

e. one or two extra connector pairs are required for connecting the Serial In and Serial Out to run
parallel to the long cable so you can have these inside the car for laptop connection
(Serial Out to laptop via Stereo-DB9 cable, Serial In terminated with Stereo plug terminator that came with LC-1).

[I think I may find an 8 way connector pair and combine c. and e.]

With this setup, you route the long cable in car, tie it down and leave it there always (tape up connector under car when not in use to keep out dirt).
Then went you want ot Auto Tune, remove NBO2 from pipe and harness, install in WBO2 into pipe and plug into LC-1,
plug LC-1 into vehicle harness and into long cable; plug other end of long cable into FlashScan inside car, plug FlashScan into car and into laptop;
do LC-1 sensor calibration using pushbutton switch/LED; now ready to Auto Tune
(be sure to tie LC-1 to underside of car so it doesn't flop around; tie it by it's body, not by the cables).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SS2win

have ya ever hooked up any electronics? It is prety straight forward installation. I permanently mounted mine but you could remove it after each tune.

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Yes, I've set up e-fans, hooked up a digital gauge, but it wasnt fun running wires through the firewall. How "plug and play" is the lc-1 system? Do the wire ends just hook up to the orange pieces for the flashscan? I looked at the LC-1 tutorial and it looks like their's some splicing of the wires off the existing O2 sensor.

Guess I could set up some type of wire quick disconnect for the wires going to the wideband sensor. I'm just wondering what to expect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mtnman

Do I have to connect the LC-1 to a 12v ignition source?

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Yes, required.