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here's a question
I just got a replacement sensor after the old one died. I re-read the guides and in the shipped documentation for LC-1 install it mentioned changing the shipped settings to match the efilive calculations.
The EFI Live guide mentioned programming the wideband to use the following outputs:
a. 0.88333 Volts at AFR: 10.00
b. 4.21667 Volts at AFR: 20.00
Those are different to teh shipped default A2 outputs, should I change the LC-1 to match these settings or is it ok to use the default shipped settings with the EFI Live PID?
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0.88333 Volts at AFR: 10.00
4.21667 Volts at AFR: 20.00
these are the values you enter in the LM programmer software
for the analog output you will use (brown or yellow wire)
to work with the default PID.
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thanks,
I hadnt done that before so I've reverted back to my original VE and installed the new sensor - still getting timing issues so possibly got an issue with the controller itself but maybe setting to the above may calm things down.
It is strange as last night it was working fine but this morning (cold as winter is upon us) it went straight to a timing issue
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Alright im having trouble connecting my LC-1 to my flashscan v2. Alright well since im not using a gauge. And im confused in the manual provided because they only use the V1 in there, so where does the yellow wire go? Do i just connect the brown wire (analog output 2) and the yellow wire (analog output 1) to the flashscan??? if so in which pins??im confused:nixweiss: thanks for the help!
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NO! Dont connect both yello and brown!!!
If you are using A2 output from the LC-1 you connect brown and white or green to the scan tool. Never cross brown and yellow together.
If your LC-1 is a 7 wire you cna use either green or white for the signal ground.
Before you do it all though wire up a little test bench. Get a cheap 12v battery to simulate the circuit so you can test everything with a multimeter. Then install into the car using the same wiring.
Red goes to switched 12v
blue goes to ground
if you are just using it as a wideband and not simulating narrow band you only need to use either brown or yellow. To keep things simple I used brown and then white for signal ground.
Brown plugs into the + connector of the flash scan and white into the -. In your box you will have a load of mini brown/orange coloured connectors that fit into the scanner. If you turn the scanner upside down you will see a guide under neath for analog ports and thermal ports.
Look for the ones that say A1 +/- something like that. Work out which side of the connector is +/- and wire brown or yellow to the + and white or green to the -
In lc programmer go to the channel you are using (yellow = a1, brown = a2) and set hi and low voltage to 1V (1000mV) hit program, wait 10 seconds then turn off the car. Wait 30 seconds and turn on, once your LED flashes a solid red you should measure the voltage at the scan tool, it should measure 1v constant. With the multi meter you can put the probes into the screw lugs on the orange connector. It should be reading 1.00 or 0.99
Next using lc-1 programmer set the hi/lo voltage to 4v (4000mV) and again wait 10 seconds, turn off, wait 30 seconds turn on and wait for solid light. At this point measure the voltage hitting - 4.00 or 3.99 or close.
You want to be measuring at both the terminal and what the scan tool is registering (look on the data tab)
If it looks out calibrate you may want to look at calibrating the port on the scan tool but make sure you are aware of the concequence of that. I had to do that but recalibrated whilst my usb was plugged into the scan tool and the LC-1 which meant that if I scanned without being plugged into both the scan tool would over read (ie the signal raised due to not having both usb port plugged in. There must be a differential that the scan tool picked up on)
something to bear in mind. It was simple to diagnose. Sat stationary and just looking at the LC-1 AFR reading on scan tool would read say 15.7. Plug in the LC-1 to logworks and it would read 14.7 in both, unplug the lc-1 usb and the scan tool would raise again so I now do all my logging with both plugged in as a result!
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Alrigt thanks, yes im just using it for a wideband. I have the 6 wire LC-1. Right now i have the signal ground(white) and the heater ground(blue) connected to a ground source. I did the free air calibration and seemed to get it right with the led flashing ect. Ok so now i should take off the white where im grounding it from and connect it and the brown to the scan tool? and just leave the yellow taped off right?
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yep that would do it
do take time to check the voltage outputs though as it will save you the headache I had. Checked it off car but then on car there was a drop off due to connectors used.
Also make sure its on a switched 12v, dont drive with out power to the wb or you'll kill it
do run log works and efilive at the same time to corrolate the afr readings to make sure efi tracks true to logworks. I set the update from instant to 1/12 second within logworks as it gave a much more stable response. I believe the new efi firmware does 10x over sampling to also stop jitters but I never got around to installing it.
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Alright, i believe i connected everything right. When i select the pids, it reads the Base Efficiency Numerator 1 LC-1 pid, but the Wide Band AFR LC-1 has a red X trough the Pid. And when i went logging, every cell count was displaying perfect on the BEN map. But when i click the X with the line over it, every cell has a value of 0.00 .. Whats wrong in here?? I programmed the LC-1 how the tutorial and you said.. i believe its not reading the wideband, right? thanks for the help
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also select AD1 or AD2 voltage PID.
whichever one you have the LC1 connected to.
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yea i selected them, alright now i want to know if im doing the logging right before i take it for a long log. Heres a screenshot of just a 10 min run, am i on the right track? I want to make sure before i do a long log and only to find out it wasn't working properly.. what do you guys think?
http://img454.imageshack.us/img454/1194/logla3.jpg
and heres the main VE, before and after
http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/2...reafteruv0.jpg
