I updated post #5 to make the LED polarity clear.
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I updated post #5 to make the LED polarity clear.
I don't suggest connecting the system ground (white wire) to Flashscan, it is a .1V ground.
Oh, if you connect the LC-1 white wire to ground also (then it will be 0V wrt to ground) then you can connect it to the FlasScan analog ground... or you can connect FlashScan analog ground to battery ground using a separate wire wire... either way.
My white wire always read 0.00V wrt ground, same as the green wire, and I had both of those floating (i.e. not tied to ground)... maybe the earlier LC-1's are different than the later LC-1's...
edit: back when, someone at Innovate told me the white wire was internally tied to the green wire.
Gregs,
When you can, can you measure the voltage on your LC-1 white wire while it is not tied to anything, and post it here...
Thanks.
I had both the system & analog grounds connected to AD1 and it had an effect on AD2,
both voltages where sketchy.
Once I separated the white from AD1 voltage was noticeably less shaky.
The system ground is akin to an NBO2 "low reference".
ok thanks for the anode help, that's what i was leaning towards, because i did a little poking around with my multimeter and found that current only travels one way...i guess my buddy must have had a little too much last night
I just got EFIL Flashscan v2 and an LC-1 setup (same 6-wire as the OP). I've been reading about the best way to wire it all into my '08 C6, but this thread has me a bit confused.
So I SHOULD wire the analog ground (A1-) inline with a batt. ground? And the yellow/black wires are for the LED?
Thanks. Sorry, first post.