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It does run pretty well right now, but the shift feel very lazy and also anytime above about 10MPH, it still will basically drive itself. When I slow down to about 5-6MPH, it will act normal. I felt like it could be something with my torque converter. Is that possible?
I am attaching a log for the transmission run.
Attachment 17550
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Have you read this tutorial https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...ul-Info-Inside ? Sounds like normal idle tuning issues after a cam install. I have had good results following these tips.
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Yes, I have been through that guide with a fine tooth comb and have done everything in it. The desired table is dialed in perfectly now based on logging DYNAIR vs. ECT in gear and in park. This does bring up another question though. To do the desired airflow based on Shawn's guide at https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...ips-amp-Tricks in SD, I would use DYNAIR instead of MAF, right?
What about cruising? Would I need to take it out of follower or cracker even more than in the tutorial. The only reason I didn't think it was that was because I am at 0% throttle and just letting it cruise, so neither of them should come into play.
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So I thought about an idea, but not sure if I am on the right track here. What if I write a calculated PID that did the following:
"{GM.DYNAIR} - ({GM.IAC_SUM_DMA}+{GM.IAC_TC_DMA}+{GM.IAC_TF_DMA}) "
My thought process on this would be that I can tell at "idle" conditions how far off of desired I am with the cracker and follower modifying my total.
Any feedback?
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Take some air out of your cracker table.
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statesman, that's what I was going to try next, thanks man. Curious though. Do I even need any additional airflow from cracker if I have the follower? Could I just zero out cracker?
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Follower is additional air "on-throttle". Cracker is additional air "off-throttle".
You can zero out your cracker table completely, but when you lift off the throttle your deceleration will be more pronounced without the additional air... particularly at higher RPMs. Some people don't mind the harder deceleration and set it this way. Personally, I'd just adjust it down enough to get rid of the cruise-control effect.
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OK, so I tried to 0 out the cracker table and it didn't work, i.e. the table didn't even program! I read it back after programming and it didn't change, so I filled it with 0.01 and it took.
Sad to say, I still have slight cruise control effect. Could it have anything to do with spark and/or torque converter? I have a 2800 stall and I am running about 24-26* of timing at that cruise RPM.
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Zero out {B4338} and see if that changes anything.
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I had issues with stalling when turning to far to one side before. Would this bring that back, or do you think the trims will be able to compensate?
Also, did you see in my logs how much the STITs were bouncing around? Is that normal?