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Guys, thank you so much for your kind efforts to myself/billion. I really do appreciate the friendliness of this forum, it's actually quite staggering your polite helpful approach.
Taz, thank you I will check that out, and you're correct that is the vehicle that I have. I have somewhat of a "sleeper" mod addiction it's terrible, we both know that my daily is no sport car at 3700 lbs and a FWD automatic (hehe), it's not even the sleeper approach, it's just that I must improve upon everything I own, I hate this.
ANYWAYS...
SE22 I'll purchase a Flashscan V2, is there anything else I need. I'd like to run a wideband o2, so my guess is that I will have to purchase some sort of adapter that will allow a wideband to communicate with my Efilive or don't bother?
I've read through swingtan's writeup it's very comprehensive, it's just that I'm slow to pick up the process for the software, I'll be more worried about getting the VVE tables setup when the time comes. I would like to run both MAF and MAP, so that I can maintain passing emissions. (I believe if I simply turn off fault codes that emissions monitors won't pass correct? - *Note I do not have a sniffer test for emissions just a scan test)
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Which wideband do you have...?
For example, see this: connecting LC-1 to V2
See forum member TAQuickness for ready-made cables.
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I typically prefer AEM UEGO. I assume I'm stuck with that LC-1? It's better than nothing unless that LC-1 doesn't contain the resistor from the factory for calibration, which is used to keep the sensor reading accurate even over fouling. The difference in response time and accuracy is pretty significant b/t LC and UEGO.
But I really need the Wideband for VEE tuning eh?
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Excellent. Now I'll likely need to also spring for another MAF I'm sure I'll out flow this stock one.
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V2s support most major brands WBO2 sensors via serial input, no dealing with analog ground offsets anymore.
Im not sure what the MAF limit on your car is, but if you wanted to first, tune it in Speed Density then add the MAF back and see if you actually do outflow it. You'd be surprised, there are a bunch of cars/trucks that dont outflow their stock MAF even running boost.
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I'll be 100% certain that I will out flow the MAF, never met a stock maf I couldn't outflow :)
If it gives you any idea my car comes equipped stock with 23.6# injectors... Grant it thats at 3bar fuel pressure and stock I run 60 psi, but still. The fuel system - electronics and the rods indicate to me this vehicle wasn't meant for boost :D
I'm working on a custom intake manifold at the moment, and I was wondering how I would go about getting stock driveability out of an LS7 TB and (I'm not sure what MAF to use to be honest, it's the old MAF and honeycomb style - not the cartridge)
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Sorry I have been REAL busy working and getting ready to get married next month so my online time is limited at best. My supercharged Saturn Sky was tuned on a dynapac (EFILive) and it's an automatic so...
I digress..
E67boostquest,
Your MAF will be fine. WORST case if you outflow it then you can change the diameter of the pipe it goes into and recalibrate it from scratch.. I say worse case because this is a bit of a task.
Since you are talking about custom intake manifold and throttle body then chances are you are going to need to recalibrate it anyhow. Personally I wouldn't do this and unless you want to make 400+ HP its not necessary.
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A rock solid proven GM MAP sensor that is a drop in replacement:
2.5 bar ACDelco# 12580698
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I don't have a cartridge style MAF, it's a standard honeycomb style (which I'm happy about because those don't flip out over being boosted into)
As far as the intake manifold, I'll need to do what I'm doing #1 because I already spent a lot of money for CNC work, #2 because I need to change the orentation of the inlet to the passengerside.
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P.S. congratulations on your marriage next month man!
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re: marriage.. thank you.
I have supercharged (centrifugal) more than 1 Aura (both 2.4L and 3.6L) and they all had the same MAF GM#12576410 as my SKY, ALL of which I run blow through. The trick in my case has been to have an atmospheric venting blow off valve on the S/C side of the intercooler so that the volume of the intercooler works like a pressure snubber to the MAF and throttle body.
A lot of E67 powered engines use this same MAF and we're all boosting them.. many of which are blow through.
While I don't at all disagree with building a custom intake manifold - at the risk of making more of a tuning nightmare than necessary - I would suggest that you maintain the following OEM details:
1. Stock MAF as listed above.
2. Stock Throttle body.
3. Stock diameter intake tube ID 2.75" with 8-10 inches of 2.75" straight tube before the MAF and 4-6 inches of 2.75" after the MAF.(Before throttle body)
GM Performance MAF bung #19166574.
Knowing the accuracy of the sensors used to define the operational range of a vehicle system is the key to a successful tune.
Correct Injector, MAP, MAF and throttle body specs are KEY to working with the ECU rather than working against it.
I have seen more than a few professional tunes that do nothing more than follow the lean spot through the tuning software until it seems to go away, then call that a good tune. While the end game may be the same(that day at that dyno at that altitude, etc.), I prefer to calibrate the sensors then tune to what they are telling you.
Stick with what the ECU knows to be true and tune from there.
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Ok now I'm very confused here, I'm getting mixed messages as far as your credibility is concerned. On one hand I'm hoping you're a new resource I can learn from in terms of actual tuning. On the other hand you most definately did not supercharge a 3.6 Liter in an Aura with a cartridge style mass air flow. There was never a cart. style MAF on an epsilon based 3.6... So I'm not sure what to think here.
#1 you should already know that I'd definately need more injector right? So could you help me select and tune for the proper injector?
#2 I agree, for now I will just stick with the stock TB and MAF, until I run out of frequency with the MAF, which I probably will. My setup will make about 380 to 400 whp at about 8 lbs of boost, my guess the stock MAF won't take care of that, and I know for sure the injectors will be looong gone before then. Thoughts on that?
Just for a visual aid, my maf, that definately isn't a cartridge style maf... and cannot be swapped in and out of piping.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1286933978
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OK, a little miss communication on my part. Sorry. When boosted it was using the cartridge style of MAF sensor #12576410. I'm trying to remember the wiring details and find my notes so I don't get called out again..
For the cartridge MAF #12576410
A MAF Sig
B ground
C 12V+
D Low Ref
E IAD Sig
For the OEM MAF #2131677 <- double check these - >
A Low Ref Black
B IAT Sig Tan
C Ground Black/White
D 12V + Pink/Black
E MAF Sig Yellow
I'm still looking for the tune so I can't say whether it was a direct transfer of table values or if it was massaged within the limits of the ECU range.
I honestly can't remember, but if it is 0-12200Hz range of 1 or 2 tables or even a single 0 to 15000 then we may have just ran out the table flat line from 412 Grams/set @ 12200 to 15000. Heck it may have even been an Emanage hack job piggy back. let me look around some..
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Hrm, well I'm confused further. I guess my skepticism comes by way of protecting the hope that I have that you could actually help me tune this car for boost :)
So my questions I guess would be the following. #1 why change from stock to cart style? #2? If it was your emanage hack job, why? I thought this E67 was supposed to be superior in terms of tuneability? Why would you even want/need an emanage (if indeed that was the same build you were talking about).
And could you give me details on how to contact your client? He might be interested in a small community for High Feature V6's I just started.
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#1 It was a show car and I didn't want a big black tube in the middle of the engine bay around all chrome pipes.
#2 There was limited time to get it running. EFILive may not have supported the tune at that time or didn't get that specific OS added by the time the car left me.
Maybe this should be a separate thread because it's become a mess with part numbers and conflicts to what is valid for the LE5
vs. the LY7.. partly my fault no less.
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Yeah sorry guys for doping up this thread. SCdyne, if you would be so kind perhaps you could PM me some details?
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Ok, been MIA for awhile but it's because my customer had a heart attack. He is doing alot better now and wants to finish this tune. I bought a 3bar map sensor and plan on hardwiring it in. I was just wondering where in the software do i make the adjustments to scalar and offset for the new map sensor. It's a GM 3bar.
- Do i just click on and start modding the 3 bar table?
- How do I put the ecu into open loop mode again?
thanks again guys, I really hope to post some dyno results later.
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Ok, I installed the 3 bar map sensor and everything seems to be reading correctly. I am trying to mod the vve open loop table but it doesn't seem to be adding any fuel. The Solstice revs up nice and doesnt hit boost cut at 105 anymore but the fuel doesnt seem to be going up in the boost section of the map. I'm trying to follow all the guidelines and setup but I not really getting anywhere. I hope Joecar can chime in on this one. I will try and post up my tune later.
thanks guys!
