No worries Joe. :cheers:
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Yes. G1210 set to type 2.
I called the harness guy today. He said the harness wire for starting goes directly to the starter relay, not through the PCM. So pretty sure there is no current, trickle or otherwise, to that PCM pin 67 mentioned.
1.Is this the problem or would your fix have over rided this issue?
2. Should I reapply the vats patch just in case? Can you link me to the how to apply a vats patch? (B9903 in operating system patches, indicates vats patch applied)
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats correct. The ECM does not operate the starter (except in a regular production car), but, the ECM in its normal state for some applications wants to "see" a starter relay and current flowing from the ECM pin to ground through the relay coil.
The current flows from the ECM to ground. Grounding the pin has the same effect.
The "fix" G1220 bypasses the logical check that there is relay current there flowing from the ECM to ground through the relay or directly.
So to check:
You have set the OS VATS patch to enabled and done a "full flash". (this takes 4 - 5 minutes)
VATS Type G1210 is set to "2" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
G1220 is set to "not used" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
Log of it trying to start. Not sure if I did not this right.
Attachment 9042
You have set the OS VATS patch to enabled and done a "full flash". (this takes 4 - 5 minutes)
VATS Type G1210 is set to "2" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
G1220 is set to "not used" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
All three are in my current file and the changes (vats changes) originally recommended by Taz (I tried with and without Taz's). I am not sure how to differentiate between a full and calibratioin flash but my update from the pc takes 2-3 minutes. All this has been flashed in, I think...
Thanks for all the help!!!!
The full and the calibration flash are selected differently. There are 3 read/write buttons on the toolbar. Green is read. Middle red it cal flash. Right hand red is full flash. And you get a big warning asking if you really want to full flash. Have you been through those steps?
Cheers. :)
Good stuff. Initially the guys suggested only to use the Middle. Right hand red does the operating system too yes? I take its not possible for me to accidentally change the operating system but no "full" flash yet. I will try today!!
Also very troubled about the -60 spark advance in the log file. I did change the cam and hope all is allright.
Thanks so much.
Yes the right hand button on the toolbar does a "full flash". This is the OS/Operating sytem AND the calibration area. This is around a 2mb flash so takes about 5 minutes. The calibration is smaller at about 256kb. The VATS patch is in the OS so unless you do a full flash it wont work.
Good luck :).
You can use full flash to change the OS (be careful doing this on E38/E67 ECMs, make sure the OS is compatible with the ECM otherwise you will brick it) or to apply VATS patches, etc. So you need to do a full flash to have the VATS disable actually written to the ECM because of where it exists in the ECM code. Most stuff is in the calibration area, so usually all you need to do is a cal flash. Once you have the VATS patch applied via full flash, you only need to cal flash afterwards unless you need to change VATS stuff again.
Full flash in place with mods.
A ScanLog using 7.5
Anyone see anything abnormal?
I just tested your tune out in our ECM test vehicle. Fires up with:
{G1204} VATS Enable Yes
{G1205} VATS Auto learn Enable Yes
{G1206} VATS Required To Run No
{G1208} VATS Fail Diagnostic Disabled
{G1209} VATS Mode No
{G1210} VATS Type Type 2
{G1211} Remote Start Allowed Yes
{G1214} Relearn Count 3.000000 Counts
{G1215} Relearn Timer 600.000000 Seconds
{G1216} Theft Relearn Password Yes
{G1213} Clutch Depress To Crank Yes
{G1217} Maximum Cranking Time 15.000000 Seconds
{G1219} Starter Relay Diagnostic Disabled
OS VATS Patch applied. (no other OS patches applied, i.e. no TCS/MAF patches, no FAN range patch.)
And the G1220 set to "not used".
I had to double check the VATS type. In resetting your VATS options from a stock 12614088 file, even though VATS = 2 with that file, and yours was VATS 2, copying them over set VATS type to 1. No idea why that happens. This bug was repeatable so I manually set type to 2.
If your tune wont start with the above settings the issue is probably outside the ECM. Your ECM looks to be an 06/07 unit which has a correctly calibrated ETC for the VIN. Probably has service number 1259721 on the back. (Remote chance it is 12612384 but I doubt it).
Is your throttle moving ok with the pedal?
Are you using a factory alternator setup?
Thanks so much for all the effort.
Fly by wire pedal. The thing is new and really does not have much play at all. It does have some type of restrictive pin on it.
Yes factory L92 Alt.
Since this has vats changes I take it I need the full reflash. I do not see the "fat" red arrow as a highlited option once I put in your changes.
The only requirement for a full flash is the OS "patches". Everything else is a calibration flash i.e. the VATS area changes in the System area DO NOT require a full flash as they are "calibrations". If the fat red arrow is missing, just close the application and re-open WITH the V2 unit attached. :) PITA that one!
You can try either with or without the other OS patches being changed back to stock. I doubt they affect things. Not really needed for your project.
Are you running a factory alternator setup? EDIT: Yes. If you find the battery wont charge, PM me.
Thanks. Did a full reflash on the one that has patches. Its the only tune I have.
It has
traction control maf less 1
traction control maff less 2
Disable vats patch
Cooling fan operation range patch.
I really appreciate all the help. I take it incorrect vats would cause the injectrors not to fire becuase it looks like they are not. Someone asked if they could be on the wrong banks but they only reach one installation way.
I also verified it kept vats 2 in G1210
If it still wont start on you and the tune is as above, then its worth checking all power/fuses and grounds.
Feel free to post the one you flashed in here and will double check it. Would be surprised if your harness has any issues, but there is always a first time. Assuming your engine has good cam and crank sensors. Have seen harnesses with incorrect sensor wiring but these were GMPP harnesses. Quality not great.
If you want to check the ECM whether it is turning the injectors on you will need to check the "Fuel Injector X Control Circuit" PIDs where X is the injector number. If the ECM is fine with VATS these will go from "off" to "on" when cranking.
Thanks. Will check the injectors tomorrow, etc.
I must say, I never cease to be amazed by the willingness of complete strangers to help me out here. Its sad I have been working on this engine and car for a year only to not get it started. Ah well. I don't give up too easy.
Cam is custom.
Also, not sure if its relevant but this tranny 4L70E has not been used with this motor to my knowledge.
GMH308 your efforts are VERY appreciated here.
Thanks ALL!
Current tune
Attachment 9057
You're just lucky we are all nice guys here. And I have a soft spot for Camaros. :) The bill is in the mail LOL!
Tune looks ok on a quick look.
4L70E may or may not work properly. Tune is for an A6 as you know. It'll probably work, but GM does use a different engine calibration for A4's. Assuming that you had the harness built for A4 and you have a 4L70E trans control module in the picture as well.
Did you check all your fuses?
I checked fuses with an Ohm meter. All are good.
Log shows injectors going from off to on and staying there. In one log, its only 1 bank. I definitely will research correct grounding.
This is an L92 right? How is the CP harness connecting to the Cam sensor? Through the VVT/CAM harness on the front cover or has that been removed and you are simply connecting straight into the cam sensor?
GMH308 Thanks man.
Everyone, you have been great.
Redid all the grounds direct to negative on bat and added one to passenger head. Redid an old horn relay + wire, replaced a breaker.
And, the tranny leaks like a sieve from the rad so it cannot run long but.........
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/5015827851/
I could not have done it without you all!!!!!!!!!!!:cucumber:
Good work guys.:rockon:
Cool bananas. So you know exactly what the problem was or did doing the grounds over meet with that sound of an engine coming to life?
If you have a meter, dont forget to check if the battery is charging at 13.5V plus immediately from start up. These truck based tunes sometimes dont charge at all or delay too long. When I tested your tune it did not switch the alternator on.
Dont forget to mention on LS1Tech how much help the EFILive crew gave you! :)
It was the grounding that finally turned it over but it may not have gone with out the tune. Yes you all are up on the board at LS1tech too. Congrats.
Thanks for the tip on the alternator. Will check it.
Alt looks good.
First running log...Attachment 9061
Good job... :cheers: ..."I love it when a plan comes together"
Nicely done, sounds awesome !!!
Regards,
Taz