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LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by twadam
my lc-1 calibration wire(black) didn`t work out of the box.
use your pc to check your wide band function.
that way you know for sure if it`s calibrated right.
i don`t know about the lm1 but the lc-1 reads 20.8 when the exhaust system is free of gasses.
I'll check this next chance I get. I was able to connect the software to the WBO2, but did not have the time to experiment. If there is a way to calibrate it through the software ... I'll just disconnect that LED and Momentary Ground Switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.prick
You can verify the operation of the wideband with software but I don't think you can do calibration other than Voltage and Lambda or AFR for the analog outputs . If you start the software as soon as you turn the ignition on you can see it go through the heater calibration and then you can hit the momentary switch and watch the free air calibration process , bounces between 20.8 and 20.9 for 2 minutes .Quote:
Originally Posted by twadam
Well, I got the WBO2 hooked to the car and after some fumbling was able to connect and calibrate the sensor (I'm guessing the calibration worked since I did not have the LED hooked up ... and the Free Air reading was dead on 20.8)
I was also alble to log the data through EFILive with the help of everyone on this forum ... THANKS!
Now onto the results:
I'm logging both AFR_LC11 and AFR_LC12 PIDs, but am getting two different readings (one is a bit richer than the other). Which one should I be looking at ? Can someone please review my log and advise me on which might be correct. BTW - the WBO2 is in Bank1 exhaust, the NBO2 that was there is still hooked to the wiring harness just secured out of the way. Bank2 still has the NBO2 in place.
Overall, I can see that I'm running rich and need to lean out the Open Loop commanded AFR.
One more thing, you can see from the log ... that we never hit CL. I really expected to hit CL with the amount of time/distance we drove. Any thoughts on that ?
Thanks in advance.
I posted that last one under someone elses account by accident.
How close to stoich should I be striving for in OL ? 13.5, 14.0, 14.7 ?
Originally the OL table values were mostly 14.7 ... but the car ran terrible.
After richening it to where it is now, it feels much more streetable.
i think you should select some different pids.
Ah, now that's what you get for borrowing my laptop. :doh:Quote:
Originally Posted by twadam
Okay, I've made more progress from last night. The car now goes into CL as it should. However once it hits CL, the engine goes completely lean (according to the WBO2 - 20:1 AFR) and runs terrible. :eek:
However if I disconnect the WBO2 completely and reconnect the NBO2 ... the same calibration will be completely driveable. :Eyecrazy:
I think I have something wired wrong.
To get to the point where we were reaching CL properly I did the following:
1) NBO2 sensor Bank 2 was left alone (still connected to PCM harness as normal)
2) NB02 sensor Bank 1 has both heater wires connected from the PCM. The other two wires coming from the PCM ("Heated O2 low" and "Heated O2 high") are connected as follows: "low" wired to ground, and "high" is connected to the Brown Analog output wire of the WBO2 Controller.
3) The Yellow analog wire from the WBO2 controller is connected to pin "C" of the EFILive interface cable.
4) The WBO2 analog grounds are wired into the center pin of the EFI Live interface cable (pin "D").
5) Then obviously the WBO2 red is connected to switched power, and the blue is grounded to the engine.
I have attached two logs which were captured using the exact same calibration). One with the WBO2 connected as above, the other with the WBO2 completely removed.
Can someone point me in the right direction as to what might be hooked up wrong on the WBO2 ?
*edit* - CALC.AFRLC12 is the PID the WBO2 is using along with AD2 PID (external analog voltage).
I also noticed something strange on the SampleWBO2 log where STFT Bank 1 is constantly neg. percentages. I'm not sure how to interpret that.
The PCM sees HO2S11 pegged at 1.1 V (this is the voltage across "Heated 02 high" and "Heated 02 low")...
You need to connect "Heated 02 low" directly to the LC-1 green wire.
Interesting, So "Heated O2 low", LC-1 white and green all get grounded at a common ground which is pin "D" of the EFILive interface connector. One of the things I want to try today is actually grounding white and green to the motor and then running a wire from that ground back to pin "D". I was assuming pin "D" could be used as a ground (maybe not).Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
So, I woke up this morning with another idea. I'm looking for verification. Could I have just programed the LC-1 wrong? I followed the directions (tutorial in EFILive), where the analogs were programmed as follows:
1V = 10:1 AFR
2V = 20:1 AFR
and
.883V = 10:1 AFR
4.216V = 20:1 AFR
(but the directions mentioned a Dyno Display ... not mimicing a NBO2 output)
AFter re-visiting the log this morning ... I'm assuming the .883V/4.216V is being used for the WBO2 values. I just picked the External PID that made sense to me and disconnected the other one (yeah, I know the log showed volts at both External ports, but one port did not have a wire attached to it).
Anyway, I just can't help that logic tells me, mimicing a NBO2 output from the LC-1 back to the PCM should be programmed as follows:
.0V = 20:1 AFR
1.0V = 10:1
Since that is what the NBO2 output looks like normally. I will first try JoeCar's thoughts on grounding Heated O2 low with the green LC-1 wire. I'm also going to ground these at the motor and pin "D", since I don't know if pin "D" is already a ground or not.
Thanks for you continued help !