Post your tune ... will take a lookQuote:
Originally Posted by tomsgarage
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Post your tune ... will take a lookQuote:
Originally Posted by tomsgarage
Sorry about that ... no Flex Fuel available here ... forget sometimes that it may require a COS ... EFILive has a Custom OS Upgrade available for the 2010 Corvette E38 OS.Quote:
Originally Posted by engimuneer
Here it is
Try this one ... remember to Full Flash it (OS and Calibration flash).
EDIT: fixed DTC and reposted the tune
And it works!!!, what did I miss?Oh and first should have been Thank YouQuote:
Originally Posted by Taz
I just reposted it with the DTC fixed ... forgot to do this initially. Try the one that I reposted (rework 2).
Nothing really ... just a matter of understanding how the EFILive VATS Patch works ... some parameters get changed, some do not.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomsgarage
I notice that all the successful reports are with 2008 and older OS'. I'm working on a 2010 Camaro engine/E38 into a 57 Chevy. It uses OS 12637084. I've applied the VATs patch and loaded these parameters. I am days from trying to starting. Has anyone successfully used the 12637084 OS and did they need the resistor to simulate the starter relay?
G1204:Yes
G1205:Yes
G1206:No
G1208:Disabled
G1209:No
G1210:Type 2
G1211:Yes
G1213:No
G1214:1
G1215:1
G1215:1
G1216:Yes
G1217:15
G1219:Disabled
G1220:Not Used
I too am having the run for 2 seconds problem on a remote customer vehicle. 2011 Suburban 5.3L/6L80 swap into LandRover. Speartech harness, 12639835 OS, 12639900 cal.
12639835.calz calibration file v7.59. Has this been programmed out or do we still need to install the resistor?
Since I made the 2010 LS3 into a 57 Chevy post, the car has started. I was not present so I do not have exact details. The car has no exhaust so it was only allowed to run for a few seconds before shut off. There were several (successful) restarts, each for only a few seconds. The last start the engine was allowed to run for about a minute. No known issues. The file used the settings as noted above. NO 100 ohm resistor. Again: OS 12637084, Cal 12637083 and 12637084.calz. It is using a Hot Muscle Wiring harness.
I don't know the exact year GM put in the Starter Relay check, but G1220 controls this, setting it to 'not used' will allow the engine to run with no starter relay load (resistor) on the ECM.....
G1220
Defines the type of starter relay fitted to the engine.
** WARNING ** DO NOT ALTER THIS SETTING ON A FACTORY VEHICLE, only change this setting for engine conversions.
And certainly NEVER set it to "Not Used" on a factory car, that setting should only be used on engine conversions when the starter relay is not controlled by the ECM.
Only the following values may be entered into this table:
- Apply to Ground
- Apply to 12V
- Not Used
Then
G1210
Selects the Anti Theft System used on the vehicle.
There is no defined VATS disable in this ECM, to disable VATS you must select either Type 2 or Type 3 from this list and apply the VATS patch to the operating system.
See Also: {B9903} "Disable VATS Patch"
Only the following values may be entered into this table:
- Type 1
- Type 2
- Type 3
And finally
B9903
Apply software update to disable the Vehicle Anti-Theft System.
After applying this patch you must perform a 'Full Flash' of the ECM.
Turned out to be a problem with the MAF. Unplugged it and it idles fine. I have done one more since then without issues. Thanks for the help.Quote:
Originally Posted by nmarkiw
Did you ever get it relinked?Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR8
If the ECM is brand new never been in a car then the link will work, if it has come out of another car then I don't know the procedure to un-marry it so it will re-link in another car. I suspect there must be a unique password for each ECM as TIS approval requires the entry of the unique number that is assigned to each car. You could try to adjust the relearn timer and counter, that is what that is there for so an ECM can self learn in 30mins without TIS approval (once initialised by the relink request).
thanks Ross, I think I may have misinterpreted how the self learn works. Just to confirm
1) Initialise Relink using the scan tool (with key on, engine off)
2) perform key on, wait, key off as per the relearn timer and counter cals.
3) key off, then start (should be linked now)
Yes, I have since been able to do it with EFILive and also through Tech 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by kangsta
If you follow the process to re link it woes work
thanks mate. which process are you referring to? I've seen a few floating around.
Do you know if it matters if the ECM is locked?
Yes correct, that is pretty much what GM service spells out as the procedure. You have the timer (set to 10mins stock) then the number of timer countdowns that must be done (set to 3 stock), so 3 x 10 = 30min relearn with key off after each 10min timer ends.Quote:
Originally Posted by kangsta
If the ECM is locked then it won't work as the initiate process must first unlock the ECM.
I did it as described by Ross.
If the ECU is locked I think you would best reinstall the calibration with tech 2 and then link it either way but while you have tech 2 connected you may as well do it that way
I have been trying to disable Vats on a 2012 OS12654239
I have done the VATS patch and the full reflash, there are many different suggestions on settings and I have tried everything I could come up with. I have also tried the starter relay resistor and a dummy relay.
It still starts and runs for 2 seconds or so and dies
Could someone look at this and tell me how to disable the VATS on this OS
Thanks
Not sure it will help; but, on a 2012 OS12653674, this works with out a starter resistor:
G1204 No
G1205 No
G1206 No
G1209 No
G1210 Type 2
G1211 Yes
G1214 3
G1215 1
G1216 No
G1213 No
Remember that your V2 MUST be connected to your laptop BEFORE you open your tune file to do a full flash. Otherwise even if the file recognizes the VATS patch it will not be applied during the flash. I'd also wait until after the tune file is opened before connecting the V2 to the OBD connector.
You should also apply the cooling fan patch to enable fan operation at lower temps.
Thanks for the reply.
Same thing starts and dies after a couple seconds.
Anything else?
Thanks
I'm rarely around when the cars are started (the shop I'm working with is about 300 miles away). As I understand it, this process is to teach the ECM a new security password. G1214 has to do with the number of "on" cycles without engaging the starter. G1215 is about how many seconds the ignition has to be on (w/o engaging the starter) for the events to count. So I believe what the shop guys do is turn the ignition on (no starter) for about 1 second, then off for a few seconds. Then repeat that cycle 2 more times. On the fourth "on", start the car. Again, as I understand it, those on/off cycles alert the ECM that there is a new security password coming. In this case, on the 4th attempt the ECM receives a "blank" security password and thus retains a blank password. Your file above had the relearn timer set to 600 seconds (10 minutes).
I did a compare to an OS I have here and the only security difference I see is G1204 and 1213 are set to yes on my tune. If not try this not tune, it works for me:
Attachment 19432
Thanks Yellow using this procedure it started.
well now I just need to install the engine and hope it still works
Thanks
Thanks Vegasrobbi If I have any more problems I will try this OS
Hi, my name is Naf, and i am a sufferer of VATS.
My engine will crank, i have ignition, i have fuel pressure, but no Injector control.
I have a factory car where i swapped the older PCM for the newer ECM. Everything worked till i used a dummy key.
I did everything mentioned in this post minus the never use on G1220. For i have a factory car with a transplanted engine/ECM.
What can i do to gain my injector control again?
Naf,
Naf,
My operator error....more info would be helpful. You say you swapped an older factory ECM for a newer ECM. The file you attached is for a 58 tooth ECM is a CTS-V. What "older" ECM used a 58 tooth wheel? Can you provide the old file? Your file has CAN and ABS comms enabled. Are you sure the newer ECM uses the same protocol for those links? Or have you disabled them? Try setting 1208 to Enabled and 1210 to Type 2. You must have the V2 connected to the computer that has the new file on it before actually opening the new file. Use the right most full flash red arrow. A good practice is after the full flash, download the ECM and compare what you think you modified to what is actually in the ECM. Be sure to try 3 non-starts before starting.
I swapped out all the older 24x and 1x components for the 58x and 4x components. So i have everything including the sensors that match up with the newer system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow05C6
I tried all combinations, and even tried to use Hptuners with no avail. I am going to have to wait for the 06 I/P harness which has the ECM and BCM communicating properly, afterwards the ECM should unlock its self and allow me to start the engine.
I know how to perform a full flash, i did it more than a few times, with my Patch upgrades...
Well you are over my head now. What you are doing is interesting and may become necessary for others in the future. Please post what you learn. What I'm observing is that these wonderful ECMs that enable great performance and allow engines to live 200K miles plus are becoming a key failure item. As newer cars become more CAN networked; we will come to the day that a valuable car will become yard art for lack of some computer. Not every ECM can be repaired because often repair components are out of production. That cycle will only increase in tempo as technology moves forward.
Since when??? Modern ECU's are incredibly reliable...at least GM's ECU's of the past ~15 years are generally very reliable. I cant speak for other manufacturers. Really the only time you see GM ECM failures are during botched reflashes. Hardware failures in normal operation are incredibly rare.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow05C6
Key failure item? Please. The fact that LS1, E38, E67, T42, etc controllers can all be picked up for $100 or less at any junk yard should say something about their reliability and availability. If they were so "failure prone" like you state, they would certainly go for a helluva lot more than $100 on the used market. Not to mention the fact that GM generally uses the same controller across many vehicles, so its not like supply is going to dry up. Think about how many millions of LS1 PCM's there are out there, considering they were used in a dozen or so different vehicles over a production span of ~8 years.......
If something breaks on any late model GM engine, 10000 to 1 its a hard part or sensor failure...not the ECM itself.
Honestly, the only somewhat "rare" (IE most expensive/hardest to track down) late model GM ECM I can think of is the E60 LLY Duramax...because they only made that engine for a year and a half. Luckily they are reliable and dont fail often. Other than that, most GM ECM's/TCM's are plentiful and cheap.
I'm just saying.... I agree the later model ECMs are generally very reliable and were made in the millions. Sensors are even more common, often even across OEMs. So a sensor failure is far less likely to turn a car into yard art. Thus the ECM can be a key failure. Have you tried to find a ECM for a 92-93 Vette or Camaro? Granted they were not flash programmable. And they are old. But those cars still have too much value to become yard art because of one electronic component. What about the 1-2 year only E40? The number of those ECMs available is dropping. Yes the LS1+ ECMs were made in the millions. But I've seen driver failures in late model ECMs that were not related to a bad reflash. It would not be possible for the ECM remanufacturing industry to thrive unless ECMs are failing every day. I'm just saying it is not unreasonable to predict the future based on the past.
I hear of injector output failures on E38's but it is usually caused by low impedance injectors being fitted and hoping they will work.
I think down the track we are more likely to see the Direct Injection ECM's failing with the high voltage and high currents they run.
Sadly for the ECM's like the E40 and E38 they are not repairable in many instances because they use custom output drivers and power supply circuits in 'flip chip' packages rendering any repairs impossible.
https://www.namics.co.jp/e/product/i...oat01_main.gif
Cheers,
Ross
Sorry, I did not mean to stir up a controversy. I only wanted to encourage Nav to tell us how he fixes his problem. I agree the high voltages of DI will tax ECM components. That said I had an E40 fail because it lost CAN comms. I’ve seen two 411 injector drivers go bad just driving stock injectors. ECMs become unrepairable because as technology evolves, OEMs switch to faster, more powerful stuff. Component manufactures stop making the old stuff because demand falls off a cliff.
Mechanical things fail linearly because with every revolution, temp cycle, load cycle, etc. some finite wear happens. Not so with electronics, Google “electronics bathtub curve”. Electronics have high infant mortality; that is why your big flat screen TV came with a 90 day warrantee, so you pay the power bill to burn it in. Then electronics enters a second phase of near zero failures for a long period of time. So the extended warrantee is for when the TV is least likely to fail. At some point there is always a knee in the failure curve. Sometimes the new failure rate is gentle and sometimes it is dramatic; but it will always happen and it will always be accelerating with time. Electronics fail because of temperature, humidly, shock, and vibration. But other variables play like how clean was the clean room. A speck of dandruff can dramatically affect the life of electronics. Electronics can even fail just sitting on a salvage yard shelf. Just because these ECMs seem bullet proof now does not mean there is no knee. It is inevitable that these ECMs will begin to fail. The only question is when and how dramatic.
If you have the ECM removed from its original vehicle (e.g. on engine dyno), then remember to do the Remove VATS patch (connect FSV2 to laptop, open tunetool, look for red folder at end of engine section, enable the Remove VATS patch, do a full flash).
If you don't do this, engine does not start, you notice it gets no more fuel after the start of cranking... log the pid GM.VTD and you'll see it indicates fuel is disabled.
I have done the VATS removal with EFILive and HPTuners several times, and none of these devices unlocked my ECM, i am swappin out my transplanted harness for the original and will try and relink the BCM to the PCM. During which time i will send my ECM to a friends shop to have the VATS disabled again and verified that it works before spending eight hrs swappin the try it out again.Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
We also had to set the VATS parameters as follows:
Code:{G1204} VATS Enable No
{G1205} VATS Auto learn Enable Yes
{G1206} VATS Required To Run No
{G1208} VATS Fail Diagnostic Disabled
{G1209} VATS Mode No
{G1210} VATS Type Type 3
{G1211} Remote Start Allowed Yes
{G1214} Relearn Count 1.000000 Counts
{G1215} Relearn Timer 1.000000 Seconds
{G1216} Theft Relearn Password Yes
Where do I get hold of the VATS patch for an E38? I've seen plenty of detail on threads of how to apply, but where can I load the file?
Nick.