i am trying this to see if it works, it's a pic of the KR i had..:D
Printable View
i am trying this to see if it works, it's a pic of the KR i had..:D
Joecar
My car is changing gears nicely now - but the 2-3 change at lower 1/3 Nm values is a bit clunky - what can i do about it? My LSD/diff is a bit worn i think as well so it might be a factor.
At high % its fine. But low down it is a little bit bangy rather than positive and quick like the 1-2 change.
I have no torque management set at all and remember i have a SS3600 converter
It seems the KR happens when the RPM drops after an upshift, and commanded AFR is 12.26; TR reduces spark timing momentarily on each upshift, so you may either want to add some back in, or see if the actual (wideband) AFR matches the commanded AFR, or play with the burst knock settings, or try higher octane fuel;Quote:
Originally Posted by ytry
What is happening is that the engine becomes loaded when it begins to pull in the new gear so it knocks;
can you hear it knocking...?
Your MAP is below 90 kPa at WOT, you must be at altitude (5000ft), right...?
Your HO2S voltages at WOT seem to be at 825-850mV (as best as I can tell) which is too lean;
opinion is that the HO2S voltages at WOT should be something like 930mV;
but the exact way to tell the actual AFR is by running a wideband O2S.
Flyer,Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer
You mean at low throttle below 20 km/h in traffic, it clunks when going 1-2...?
I have tried decreasing the pressure and increasing the shifttime at the lowest 2 torque settings, but it didn't help;
I don't know that anything can be done.
At low speed/throttle the sprag is overruning, and when 1-2 occurs it grabs and the diff lets you hear the back-lash in the ring/pinion as a mild 'clunk'; happened since new, friends would say "I thought you bought a new car..."
My car is good in 1-2 to change - its the 2-3 change.
Oops, I misread 1-2 instead of 2-3...Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer
It's still the forward sprag suddenly holding after freewheeling in 1st or 2nd;
the ring/pinion was coasting and now is suddenly driven (backlash is suddenly taken up);
if that's not describing what you see/hear, maybe 2-3 shift pressure is high and/or shift time is too quick for the lowest torque cell; have you tried adjusting these (only for the lowest torque cell)...?
Its at about 8% throttle at 2000rpm change 2 to 3rd at 74ftlb (100Nm)
which in my car has 86Kpa which is 13%. and shift time is set to 0.300
with 3.73s it only at about 23mph.
This is just one example of when it does it. It does it at higher revs as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer
Hey this is exactly the same problem with me too. I am curious to hear a follow up on this one.
Mine is doing this fairly much exact same conditions as you Flyer. Its really annoying and feels bad IMO. Makes me cringe when it goes 'cuchunk'! and every other shift except 2-3 are positive and perfect no matter what the TPS% or torque is. I tried a few things but it still does not feel quite right however it is better. My box is built as well and running a 3500 stallie.
If its 'really' light throttle it is fine and drops a 2-3 shift firm or if it is 2400rpm or cops a boot it is beaut all the way through. Tried playing with the cells which indicate between 70-100nm by increasing the shift time a little.
Should I try increasing the shift times in the lower torque value cells some more and try it out? Have not got a log at the moment with me to post :(
interesting. :Eyecrazy:
I get a clunk going 2-3 at almost no throttle, around 20-25 mph, almost idle revs;
I have never yet been able to eliminate it, it's very annoying. :bash::nixweiss:
I'm curious to know how many people are seeing this.
Is there any way to adjust shift firmness during AutoVE tuning? My shifts are freakishly hard and jerky.
Make sure that P0101, P0102, P0103 are disabled in these tables:Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnman
E0101, E0102, E0103, E0104
edit: and check for any instances of P0101, P0102, P0103 in any Exxxx tables.
(they don't appear in all these tables)
Also "broken" is GM.TFMPRS (psi is ok, but kPa is wrong).Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
Both will be fixed in the next release.
Paul
Paul, thanks mate, excellent customer service. :cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacky
I experimented a little, and I found that I can eliminate the clunk most of the time if I revert back to stock the lower portion (TPS < 25%) of the PT 2-3 upshift table D0902 and the PT 3-2 downshift table D0907. It still happens, but less frequently and less pronounced when it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer
I spend about 30 minutes/day in 0-25MPH stop/go conditions (freeway traffic jam) so I get good opportunities to test this out.
So I don't know if your tables are modified, if they are you may want to try this.
Well, thanks for the help you guys provided me without even knowing it. My 02 TrailBlazer with Transgo HD-2 shift searches for gears on the hwy and above about 45mph, but after reading this thread I have some ideas that I am going to try tomorrow and see what happens!!
Let us know how it goes/went... :cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by ScarabEpic22
Hi there guys.
Did my first trans tune on a VYII Holden R8. Interesting experience with very good results!
The trans had the usual clunky down shift and slow sloppy upshift under hard acceleration. It also had that annoying TTC lockup in 4th gear that won't unlock when you hit a decent hill unless you really stab the throttle or pass 50% TPS or more. This means you are always reaching for the manual change to 3rd or suffer in silence and slooooowwww down:)
What amazed me was how different the car was to drive once we "got it right" !
The Upshifts were snappy yet not jerky giving a performance feel, the downshifts on light throttle were almost imperseivable, the TTC was hardly noticible on lockup.
And best of all, the moment you hit a hill and needed a bit more grunt the TTC unlocked at about 40% tps (standard about 52%) and away you went. The customer was very impressed :) and so was I.
Thanks for all the good info and tuning tips on this thread !
Mike
This is a old thread.....:cucumber::cucumber:
wooooooooooow thanks mate
Holy Crap! This thread is still alive!
Still think a formal tutorial would be nice!
lol, Howard, I can work on something new, I now have something that can write pdf files.
I am with Howard, bring this thread back!
Look who woke up!
I would love to see a 2011 Camaro Trans tune write up.
Bill
I'd like to see a Silverado/GMC Truck 6L80E/6L90E 6 speed Trans Tune write up...:D
I don't have any 6L80/90 to experiment with or otherwise destroy...
These work different than the 4L60E/4L80E in that the components are sequenced electronically rather than hydraulically, and the trans calibration contains timing relationships which are critical.
Some people have figured out how to tune these.
Try the link below ...
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....l=1#post131266
Regards,
Taz
Hi Taz
Thanks. The post you reference is how I landed in this thread. In the thread you are referencing post 3 has a link to a trans PDF and there are links to it in this thread. Only enquiring to see if there is an update since the one attached in 2006.
Thanks
Great work all!
Hello again, been 6 mos since I plugged my scanner into the truck, getting back into it to figure out if I can get this trans to shift more crisp. At least I can learn on this one and if I blow it up its no big deal...99 silverado 2wd 4l60 with a skillion miles on it, turboed now and wondering how much I can pour to this poor thing before the trans gives up. Took a drive and logged before making the pressure and shift time changes mentioned in this thread, part throttle shifts are much more crisp now. Bad news is my 1-2 shift takes about 1.3 seconds measured from peak to valley of my rpm curve WOT. 90 psi pres control solenoid pressure while it is shifting which I believe is maxxed. shift times are at .25 seconds on the tune and tm is zeroed.
How do I tell it's slipping and can't be tuned into shape? Should I try it with 0 in the appropriate cells for d1108 and see if it helps any? I get the feeling I am going to be shopping for a real solution...
Thank you to all who have contributed so far!
that would be nice
The issue with T43 is that every one of them behaves differently!
I could do a tutorial of what i have found so far ,but it would really be useless IMHO. You flash your first T43 and drive the car and you'd think "oh wow, that's great" . Put the same numbers in the next car and it behaves totally differently.
6L80E & T43 is a tuner's nightmare :crash:
Back from the past... Found this thread accidentally in search... how come it never made a sticky or link or? Lots of good ideas!