It does. But they are using a USB to connect to a PC.Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
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It does. But they are using a USB to connect to a PC.Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
Wasn't there an issue with the voltages from the plx serial connections that had to be addressed. Hence the chip that needed to be soldered to the board in the PLX controller.
You're right...Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.7ute
I don't know if this new model PLX comes already fixed from the factory, or if it has the same problem.
I have one of these units on the way as my LM-1 is finally playing up. Hopefully you guys will work it out before mine gets here lol.
I hooked up my Wideband using the Analog input to the V2, and since the voltage seemed pretty stable, I decided to go with that for the moment.
When I could not get WideBand AFR 1 - PLX {CALC.AFR_PLX1} to be recognized, (because it could not see Ext. AD1), which would, as a consequence, make BEN invalid, I touched base with JoeCar for some advice about it.
He thought there might be a bug in SAE_generic.txt (he was on a drive, so could not check himself.) With that clue, I looked into SAE_generic.txt and discovered:
# PLX WBO2
# ================================================
*CLC-00-953
V 0.0 5.0 0.1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 0.2 "{EX.AD1}*2.00+10.00"
*CLC-00-954
V 0.0 5.0 0.1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 0.2 "{EX.AD2}*2.00+10.00"
I changed it to the below, and it worked:
# PLX WBO2
# ================================================
*CLC-00-953
V 0.0 5.0 0.1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 0.2 "{EXT.AD1}*2.00+10.00"
*CLC-00-954
V 0.0 5.0 0.1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 0.2 "{EXT.AD2}*2.00+10.00"
There are a number of other WB parms malformed like this as well, so be aware.
Went looking for Bugs/Issues and lo-and-behold:
https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...ic-Pre-Release
I've managed to get the car to drive well above 4% or 5% throttle and not too rich, but not too lean, even under 90% WOT (on the street with 28" tall Nitto's not allowing me to WOT). What is eluding me right now is idle or close to idle when I'm coming off the throttle.
After warm-up, it will idle 950 to 1000 in Neutral and 800-850 in gear (sitting still). But, if I rev and take my foot off the accelerator it dips down to about 400 and won't recover before shutting off. When I'm driving, all seems well until I go to 0% throttle. Once I am below 1000 or so RPMS, it sounds almost like the car is not even running, and I have to downshift to raise RPM's as I coast to a stop or hold the throttle about 5% so it won't stall.
I went through an Idle Tuning procedure before the PCM swap and had it idling as low as 700 with a nice lope. Now, I can't seem to get it to idle. Raising timing down low helped a bit (I tried to avoid touching timing while I was fuel tuning). But, it is not at drivability level as far as sitting in traffic would be concerned.
I've tried some manipulation of Idle air-flow and cracker tables to no avail. (Well it has improved SOME ... it was swinging wildly before between nearly stalling and about 1400. That is gone now. But, that is as far as I've gotten.)
Any ideas? What else should I be trying.
Tune file and logs would help.
You added timing to which tables? Where is your base spark set for idle? What timing gives the best map at idle for your combination?
No problem! You want the .EFI log or the Excel Spreadsheet I created?
Log would be better.
The problems you are describing sound like it is just a weak idle.
By best you mean lowest :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.7ute
:-)Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
I've never posted a file. How do I get it to you? (The .ctz and .efi log)
Thought I'd mention ... I don't recall if I have: The weird transmission shift problem is gone since I replaced the PCM.
Even though I'm still dealing with the idle issue and rolling idle issue, I have kept adjusting the VE table until I have a pretty good air flow ratio even going up into the boost table range.
Then I started adjusting the timing table which also made quite a bit of difference in the power. Adjusted up until I started to see some KR, then I adjusted down in each gear / map kPa and also cylinder air until I knocked out the knock retard. Then I look up in the higher map range during boost and adjusted that out in the table where I could pull timing out in the upper kPa.
It's pulling so hard now that I am beyond my ability to tune anymore at hi throttle because it won't stay straight with the street tires. So I'm going to go to the Mickey Thompson drag radials MT Streets.
Once approximate a reasonable tune, back to the Dyno to mAximize the tune ... Surely he can fix the idle issue if it's still not resolved.
See post #2 here: Hosting-an-ImageQuote:
Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
start at point 5.
Looks like you got a base tune nutted out...Quote:
Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
yes, you will most likely need some dyno tuning.
Post your current tune and log files.
I'll post the tune and log I just ran in my next post, and the associated spreadsheet already exported and formatted the way I like to compare things.
I adjusted my D-1SC belt tighter and boost shot up from 9 PSI to 12 PSI.
I had to add more fuel and in the boost range had to drop timing. (I modified this last night when 80 to 90% TP with my MT ET Streets was almost as uncontrollable as my street tires.)
I don't know how to do Custom Parameter in the 3-Bar OS properly yet ... all I did was modify Boost VE table to command a little fuel and Boost Timing Table to pull timing where I saw KR. But, I see at WOT, I'm getting still getting up to 4 KR in some places (I don't know how much is false ... my True Duals are banging the Trans Cross Member at times.)
So much smoke behind me (tire smoke) :hihi:
Anyway .. my AFR Gauge is showing me rich at WOT, but the logs say I average lean now. {sigh} (This is at > 170 MAP.)
I'll load in this post the snippet of the WOT where I was able to get through 1, 2 and a portion of 3 before it tried to get away from me. (Even in 3rd gear, it was pulling so hard I could not keep it straight on that street.) I may have to just work on the idle/rolling idle issue until I can tune at the dyno and the track where I can get some traction and stay straight. I don't like being reckless on public streets, even if they are more secluded.
Attachment 19040
OK:
1. The Tune: 20151126aSDAutoVE.ctz (I mistakenly did not copy Hi-Spark to Lo-Spark)
2. The associated log: 20151126aSDAutoVE.efi
3. The Exported Spreadsheet: 20151126aSDAutoVE.xlsx
I tried to log some idle parameters, but obviously I screwed that up my first time .. but here it is.
4. Idle log:20151126aRAF2.efi
5. Idle Exported .csv: 20151126aRAF2.csv
I see I can't upload Spreadsheets ...
FYI - Bundle everything together in a Zip file, then upload it and you'll be able to get around the spreadsheet upload problem.
Comments on 20151126aSDAutoVE.ctz:
A0001, A0002: set these to 100%.
A0012, A0013: set these to 511 mph (i.e. max-1).
B3613: set this to 105 kPa.
B3647: set upper 3 columns to EQR 1.185.
B3618: set this to EQR 1.265.
B3616: set 3200, 3600, 4000 to 34%.
B3603, B3659: set these to EQR 1.265.
B4105: set all cells to 450 mV.
B5913, B5914: these may have too much advance in the high load columns, possibly need to subtract 6 degrees.
You have a 4L60E with a 2.84/1.57 gearset...?
VSS vs TP shift tables are not suited to street/daily driver.
D0701, D0702, D0703: can increase pressure, say +10%.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
Yes... 6-pinion planetary. I'll never go back.
Yeah, I like that gearset, makes the 4L60E ratios closer, allows you to use less stall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
Also: keep your wideband-to-V2 analog connection, and see if you can get the serial comms connection going also.
Mine said max of 824, so I set it to 823 (-1) if you still intend I set it to 511, let me know..Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
Do you mean "upper three rows"?Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
How many columns are you calling "High load"? Which ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
For now, I set 1.20 coum to 12, and added 1 degree per column until it matched what I already have (at column .96/1.00)
Adjusted wrong table. RE-flashed. After warming about 3 or 4 minutes (weather in the upper 50's right now) it wouldn't idle off throttle. But I will drive out with that tune and see what happens rolling. I'll post result at work.Quote:
It cut off if decreased below 1500 RPMS. I waited until it warmed up, and when I manage to baby the throttle downt o 900, it would stay there. But, if I increased throttle back up to 1500, it stalled out and cut off.
Also, keep in mind I'm in AutoVE Tune mode right now ... Forced Octane Scaler was turned off and things like TOS VE Table are disabled as well.
The intent is to have those cells in-range (i.e. eliminate the blue dogears).Quote:
Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
Upper 3 columns (90 kPa, 95 kPa, 100kPa).Quote:
Do you mean "upper three rows"?
From 0.68 g and up.Quote:
How many columns are you calling "High load"? Which ones?
Sounds good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
Ok, understood.Quote:
Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
A0012, A0013 in my Calibration is Valet Mode Speed Limit with ETC and non ETC.Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
Is that really what you are asking me to change. Explanation about the changes would be helpful, so I that I can understand what I am doing. :-) Thanks!