If your PCM switches the NBO2 heaters on/off (check your wiring diagram) then you can't power from the NBO2 connector.
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If your PCM switches the NBO2 heaters on/off (check your wiring diagram) then you can't power from the NBO2 connector.
Seems like alot of PT to wire the simulated NB in then if its not necessary.
Why go through all the hassle?
To do AutoVE you don't need NB sim.
If you then later want to run CL and still monitor the WB AFR,
then you can run NB sim and WB without having to drill another bung hole.
I see, so its just a matter of not wanting extra bungs in the exhaust.
Ill be using a LM-1, so im happy with putting an extra bung in. Makes it all easier to install and remove.
Thanks for the replies
Cheers!
Recently installed my lc-1 and while running log works and the scan tool my afr reads 14.7ish on log works and 11.7ish through the scan tool. I have done some searching and read through this post. Where do i look?
Are you using the correct AFR pid for the LC-1...?
Post screenshots of your PIDs tab and Data tab.
Analog or serial?Quote:
Originally Posted by W_D_R
The analog outs will need to be programmed.
Did you read this?
LC-1 Installation
Page 4 from the LC-1 maual:
The default analog outputs are as follows:
Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR.
This is a simulated narrowband signal.
Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR.
If you don't have a USB to Serial converter to program the analog outs you can use analog #2,
it is close to the pre-defined PIDs for the LC-1. "({EXT.ADX}*3)+7.35"
What LC-1 color wires do you have going to your FlashScan...?
What did you do with the LC-1 black wire...?
Start the LMProgrammer software and look at how the two LC-1 channels are programmed... post screenshots of those.
1. brown and white with blue. connected to A1
2. it is grounded to main bar under dash.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7102/tab1.png
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/1918/tab2.png
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4457/afrdiff.png
LC-1 black wire is not a ground wire...
if you short this to ground you go into free air cal mode ...
if you don't release this from ground the LC-1 stays in free air cal mode...
if you have the black wire connected to ground then this may be the problem.
Brown is analog out #2 positive do not connect to ground.
6 wire LC-1
Black > Calibration wire (to momentary push-button switch between ground )
RED > switched 12v positive
BLUE > ground
YELLOW > Analog out 1 (to V1/V2 AD+)
BROWN > Analog out 2 (to V1/V2 AD+)
WHITE > System Ground (to chassis ground)
7 wire LC-1
GREEN > Analog Ground (to V1/V2 AD-)
connect both GREEN and WHITE wires to the same V1/V2 AD-
My lc-1 has 6 wires. none of which are green.
Yellow- goes to nothing
brown- v2 ad+
white- ground
black- to momentery push button then to ground- to led.
red- 12v switched power- to led
blue- ground
White w/ blue dots- v2 (ad-) to ground. I added this as a ground.
I don't remember, but it seems to me that the led should go between the black wire and ground (white) (in parallel with the pushbutton switch).Quote:
Originally Posted by W_D_R
as you have it wired, does your led light up...?
if it does, then it's holding the black wire at ~0.7-1.2V below battery voltage (I think the LC-1 doesn't like this).
Your correct, its not to the red. Here is a diagram of how I'm wired up. I have all my grounds spliced together then ran to a single point. Should I change this or could efi live not br programmed correctly. I'm confused on how LM would read what I believe to be correct and efi read different.
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/3034/hookup.jpg
Thank you Joecar and Mr. Prick for all your help!
The white wire should go to chassis ground.
Does this White w/ blue dots-
go between the LC-1 and V1/V2
or is it V1/V2- to chassis?
IMO
tape off the black wire and if you have V2 use serial connection to the LC-1.
I ran the white with blue dots is an extension of the white wire.
Here is how my LC-1 is wired:
power and ground (red + blue) come from the PCM
analog#1+ (yellow) to V2 AD1+
analog#1- (green) to V2 AD1-
system ground (white) to chassis ground.
correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
Sorry to hijack this thread - does anybody know which modelyears the WBO2 used on the LC1 was used on VR6 Golfs ? I can't use the US part# to get a replacement, as nobody in Germany seems to be able to find it anywhere ...
IIRC any newer turbo VW
021-906-262-B (VW pn#)
Tnx! Wonder how much they will charge here - place in Charlotte/NC sells them for $58 on ebay ... probably be twice that here ...
You got to figure the cost of shipping vs. buying locally,
sometimes it's cheaper to buy local.
Of course you have the Euro to dollar conversion so maybe shipping
would be cheaper. :doh2:
Is there no VW part dealers in Germany? :hihi:
This pn# 17014 also works.
FYI ... just did a check on a couple online sites that carry "original" VW parts ...
one place has it for 188€ (!), another 158€ ... I don't expect the VW shop to be any cheaper ... got one place that has it for 69€ ...
Might contact that seller you referred ... does it look like it's genuine Bosch?
I've bought the 17014 Bosch sensor from them before.
188€ ($133) is a rip off.
69€ ($49) isnt much more than I paid, if it's local I'd go that route.
Unless ebay will ship to Germany for free. :hihi:
You got the conversion rate wrong ... 188€ is more like $265 ... €69 is ~$100 plus another 8€/11$ shipping ... I'm OK with a couple € extra for a local place, that way it's easier to kick someone's @ss if they deliver crap ...
HAHA I went the wrong way, (€*.71 = $ wrong) (€*1.41 = $ right)
still a rip off. :hihi:
If ebay will ship, go for it.
I bought from them before.
Like I thought/expected ... Just checked with both a local VW dealer, and a wholesale place I sometimes get parts from ... VW has it for €156, the other place I'd get it around €120 ... waiting for some feedback from the EBay seller on shipping to Germany or APO, if not I'll go with the other place for €88 ...
Edit: Nice ... NOT! Checked the online site today, price went from the 69€ to 77€ ... The cheap place on eaby doesn't seem to want to ship to Germany, but I found another place that ships for a decent price, still save something like 20€ compared to the local place ... (albeit, longer shipping...) Even after Customs ...
I just got it and they still have a few left,Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.prick
this is a really good price. :secret:
Same guy/place ...
They probably got ripped off one too many times by Paypal and their buyer protection, with no way of getting to the buyer in any sensible legal way ...Quote:
WE ARE NO LONGER SHIPPING INTERNATIONAL. PLEASE DONT ASK FOR A QUOTE. WE APPOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVIENIENCE.
That sucks the price is so high in EU,
I don't need one but for the price I had to buy one.
Hard to believe they still have any left.
what are the output voltages supposed to be set at? I thought they were pre-program from the factory for the lc1?Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
read through the lc-1 guide in the AutoVE tutorial supplied with the software, it shows the correct settings in there for you :)Quote:
Originally Posted by smslyguy
You use the LM Programmer software (download from the Innovate website).
i have read through, and just read it again and i can't seems to find the setting for this?Quote:
Originally Posted by stigmundfreud
The LC-1 Tutorial tells you to program the output for WBO2 integration to Flashscan not NBO2 simulation and it is not even necessary if you are usingQuote:
Originally Posted by stigmundfreud
output #2 (brown) default setting.
sorry mr prick its been quite a while since I did this so it was from memory i said it was in the autove manual that gave the informationQuote:
Originally Posted by mr.prick
smslyguy its certainly in the docs supplied with the efi software, for setting up WB as mr prick states. Its such a long time back now I had forgotten I was using serial logging for WB and analogue out for NB, for NB its set 0 to 1 or 0 to 1000mv again memory so am sure joe or mr prick can clarify
off topic but mr prick have you any idea how hard it is to write your name without laughing
My mother doesn't laugh at my name. :redface: