LC1 hook-up/installation

Hello everyone.

Received my V2 and lc1 last week. Gettin the feel for everything. Been doing TONS of reading on here...I really can't figure out how to hook up my wideband though...could someone put it in simple terms for me please?:help2: I want to make it somewhat portable to transfer from my vehicle to another. So I'm not really looking for a permanent installation. I guess what I'm looking for is someone to tell me where each wire goes. I have red, blue, black, brown, yellow, and white wires. Thanks for the help

the link below is how I hooked up the LC-1 and one analog as the WBO2 to EFILive and the second external analog simulating the NBO2 back t othe cars PCM.

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=5306

I also ended up hooking this up to a different car ... not using EFILive, but just the software that comes with it. It was much simpler ... really all you need for that is:

Red = positive 12 V
Blue = chassis ground
green and white = chassis ground
Then hook up the serial connection to the Laptop.
You will also need to program the LC-1 (refer to the link above and the manual for LC-1)

*edit* The brown and yellow wires are only used to send the data to some external device ... like a Dyno display; AFR guage; or EFILive as an external PID.

black wire can be "temporarily touched" to a ground to calibrate the LC-1 in free air.

I did notice occasionally I had to recylce the power to the LC-1 to establish a connection.

Hope that helps.

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....&highlight=lc1
be careful not to ground the analog output wires.

thanks...i had already checked out those links but didn't quite "get it"...thanks for the replies though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SPRAYED07

thanks...i had already checked out those links but didn't quite "get it"...thanks for the replies though

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What part do you need help with ? PM me if you like. I'll try to walk you through it best I can. I'm not an expert.

Where are you located? I have a stand alone system setup for what you are talking about.

Power:
LC-1-red -> NBO2-D or switched 12V source
LC-1-blu -> NBO2-C or engine/chassis ground

NBO2 sim:
LC-1-yel -> NBO2-B
LC-1-grn -> NBO2-A

Analog AFR signal:
LC-1-brn -> FS-V1-C or FS-V1-E or FS-V2-ADn+
LC-1-grn -> FS-V1-D or FS-V2-ADn-
where n = one only of 1, 2, 3, 4.

LED/pushbutton:
LC-1-wht -> pushbutton/LED cathode(-)
LC-1-blk -> pushbutton/LED anode(+)

Note: LC-1-grn and LC-1-wht can be interchanged.

Note: LC-1-blk is not ground, it is calibration trigger and LED anode(+).

:)

yellow A1+
white A1-
brown A2+
red 12v
black calibration...

blue...can that go on A2- ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SPRAYED07

yellow A1+
white A1-
brown A2+
red 12v
black calibration...

blue...can that go on A2- ?

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No; blue goes to battery ground.

green or white can go to A2-.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SPRAYED07

yellow A1+
white A1-
brown A2+
red 12v
black calibration...

blue...can that go on A2- ?

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yellow A1+
green A1-
white ground
blue ground
don`t bother with brown or black
do the calibration through your laptop as to see what is going on
and if you are calibrated properly
free air should be 20.8 +/-