Ok, here's how I did it so everyone can have a common point of knowledge....
I started out wanting to do this by replacing the stock B1S1 narrow band O2 without having the PCM freak out on me. The answer came to me while working on a friend's car. His O2 was acting up and he decided to replace it. So, we took his old O2 and chopped the connector and wires off of the end of the sensor. This provided us with a connection to a 12v source, a heater ground, the analog 1 output, and analog ground. You'll need quite a bit of spare wire to get back into the car (about 30ft to make four 6~7 foot extensions). I chose to use a
slightly thicker guage wire because I didn't want to loose voltage from one end to the other. If you choose to do it this way AND you have the new 7-wire LC-1, here's what you need to do.
- 1. Make sure you're working on a cool car to avoid serious burns. Catalytic converters and transmissions especially hold heat for some time after you turn the car off. Remove your stock NBO2 from your car.
2. Connect four 6~7 foot strands of wire to the spare O2 connector. If you don't have a spare, you can buy an O2 extension and chop the male end off.
3. Create a "Y" on the end of the analog ground that is attached to the LC-1 with about 6 inches of wire. One end will go to the spare connector and the other to your Flashscan pin-out.
4. On the end of the connector (from step 2), the wires are labeled A, B, C, and D. If yours isn't labeled or its worn down, check the one you removed in step 1. Wire "A" (TAN) is connected to one of the analog grounds from step 3. Wire "B" (PURPLE) is connected to the analog 1 output. Wire "C" (BROWN) is your switched 12v source. Wire "D" (BROWN) is your heater ground. Make the appropriate connections to the LC-1.
http://www.efilive.com/forum/files/f...an_pinouts.gif
5. Connect the analog 2 output to either the C or E location on the pin-out. **Make sure you take note which one you connect it to so you can log it later on.**
6. Connect the system ground and the the other end of the "y" created for the analog ground in step 3 to the D location on the pin-out.
7. Plug the spare connector into the female end under the car.
8. **First time use** With the WBO2 still disconnected from the LC-1 interface, turn the ignition to run (do not start motor) for 10~15 seconds and then shut it off.
9. Connect the wide band sensor to the interface. Make sure the sensor is exposed to air (not in exhaust). Turn the ignition to run again, this time for 2 minutes and then turn it off.
10. Install the wide band into the stock location of the exhaust.
11. Connect the DB9/stereo cable to your laptop and the serial out connection from the LC-1. Connect the terminator plug to the serial in connection from the LC-1.
12. Open the LC-1 programming software. Select the analog 2 tab at the top. Select "use air-fuel-ratio." Type 0.5v=10AFR and 4.5v=18AFR in the boxes provided. Click program.
Congrats. You're now ready to log. Choose the Tech Edge PID, Ext.AD1 or Ext.AD2 (depending on whether you used pin-out C or E), and GM.AFR in the scan tool & go have fun! :)
**Edit** I still haven't figured out what to do to get the simulated NB signal to "switch." When hooked to the car in closed loop, it is reporting .440~.460mv consistently. Unfortunately, this is not a true simulation of our sensors. Until someone figures out how to fix this,
THE ABOVE SETUP WILL ONLY WORK IN OPEN LOOP OPERATION. If someone figures out how to fix this, please let me know so that I can update this walk-thru. Thanks!
