Finally I can run my LS3 consistently

I have spent a good 1.5 yrs getting my 2010 E38 LS3 to start consistently and drivable. I am so appreciative of all of those who have attempted to help in the past. I had a good bit of mechanical/electrical issues I had to correct. All is good and the engine starts/runs consistently, finally.

I am very weak at understanding the logs and how different readings relate and where to start adjusting. I will eventually get it to a tuner which is a 3hr drive (one way) on a trailer. I would like to get a few issues close before taking it.

Issues:
Acceleration hesitation - sometimes pops/backfires
Timing bouncing around

By adjusting Hi/Lo spark tables B5101/02 and VVE table B8101, I have the engine idling and running decent with slow acceleration.
I have WB o2's installed but cannot get one work. Innovate LC-1 but not connected to V2.
The 2 logs I am posting an 8mi run till ran out of gas (gauge said 3/8 tank), the other is a 2mi run...still nervous about a 30min run(trust issues)
The tune is a stock tune with Swingtan's VVE SD changes. My cam has 12 degree overlap
I hope someone has the time to review my tune and logs and give some directions.

Tha's awesome, congrats!

Now on to the fun stuff. Looking at your logs, these are pretty short, there's not a whole lot of data there. I know you're easing into it, but don't be afraid to get a full log from the moment you turn the key on to after you turn the key off.

Something I noticed is your MAP reading is jumping around quite a bit, which tells me you aren't getting a good reading or you have an air leak. Can you check for air leaks around your MAP sensor, intake to heads, and throttle body to intake?

A note on your tune, your power enrichment target AFR is very lean, about 13.6:1. It's best to get that closer to 12.5:1 for now, you can lean it out later after you tune it. I would recommend setting table B3618 to 0.85 lambda, or 12.5 AFR_gas depending on what units you are looking at.

Regarding your log, can you add the following PIDs:
1. APP - accelerator pedal position. This is what your foot is doing.
2. ETCTP - electronic throttle control throttle position. This is similar to TAC_PCT, but it's normally what I use.
3. Wideband reading. You have an LC-1, you should be able to plug it directly into your Flashscan using a serial cable and a null modem adapter. You must use the null modem adapter.
4. Wideband BEN, this is your correction factor to apply to your VVE. If you go to add PIDs, look in the "Calculated" portion, and look for source WO2S, which is wideband serial.

After setting up these PIDs so you know your measured AFR and the adjustment you need to make, take a look at page 7 of Swingtan's VVE guide. This will adjust table B1213, your injector flow modifier based on IAT.

One more note, your TAC_PCT is bouncing around a lot also, which may be causing your MAP to bounce around, then causing your spark to bounce around.

You might take a look at your throttle pedal wiring and the wiring to your throttle body, make sure that's in good shape. When you log APP and ETCTP you may or may not be able to help track down the root cause of your popping/backfiring.

Thanks for the pointers...It's been raining here on and off for a week. so no runs. Hopefully Sat will e rainless. I will make those changes and report back.

OK got a log thats a little longer but still being cautious. I got rid most of the popping by changing some PE param settings.
Here is the tune and log: The file is over 2.1m and this forum won't let me upload it. Any options around that?

What??

Is there a trick to getting a large log uploaded?

Hmm, looks like 2mb is the limit.

If you open your log, can you select and delete some of the frames at either the start or end of the log to get it below 2mb?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinstripebob

Hmm, looks like 2mb is the limit.

If you open your log, can you select and delete some of the frames at either the start or end of the log to get it below 2mb?

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Is that how people log 30 to 60min logs. I will try that but never edited a log. Is there a sticky or help file explaining the process?

UPDATE:
I figured it out. So here is the trimed log but probably not as long as you want.

I think you may still have some electrical gremlins.

If you look at frames 8900 to 12,300, your vehicle speed increases, then drops to 0, then jumps back up, then tapers off to 0, then jumps back up again.

You see that around from 34,000 again, where you have a steady vehicle speed, it drops to 0, then jumps back up to where it had been.

There are also a few areas where your accelerator pedal position has a quick jump up, although that could have been your foot, just something that stuck out to me.

Your MAP reading is interesting, there are a few times where it goes near or up to 100 kPa, but your APP is in the 60s. Can you see what part number is on your MAP sensor and let me know what that is?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinstripebob

I think you may still have some electrical gremlins.

Your MAP reading is interesting, there are a few times where it goes near or up to 100 kPa, but your APP is in the 60s. Can you see what part number is on your MAP sensor and let me know what that is?

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New first of Feb: Bosch 0261230289

Looking at frame 9900:
rpm 2501 spark 38
map 3.6 afr 13.878 wo 12.46
app 0%
mafsd 24g/s vss 0mph (how does that happen)

So is this crazy or what. This is similar in a few places like you said. As a newbie I have not idea where to start.
Of course I haven't got a handle on creating maps yet. One reason I do not know what to do with the data!
I appreciate you observations.

Yeah something weird is happening with your vehicle speed, it drops to 0 then jumps back up. Can you check your connections at the vehicle speed sensor and the engine computer?

The MAP sensor and the parameters for it in your tune are right, just wanted to double check.

Definitely need to figure out the speed thing first, if you're getting any bad signals to your ECU, you won't be able to get a solid tune on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pinstripebob

Definitely need to figure out the speed thing first, if you're getting any bad signals to your ECU, you won't be able to get a solid tune on it.

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I will but might be a few days. WE had a wind storm and something bounced off the roof n scratched a fender so it's back to paint.
I will go over the speed and pedal sensors when I get it back.