Here it is! A complete step-by-step write up for Autotuning
Revised 8.19.05
Thanks Blacky, GPMX, and Black02SS ;)
Edit: this is an OLD THREAD! From the scan or tune tool, click "Help -> Tutorials -> AutoVE"
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Here it is! A complete step-by-step write up for Autotuning
Revised 8.19.05
Thanks Blacky, GPMX, and Black02SS ;)
Edit: this is an OLD THREAD! From the scan or tune tool, click "Help -> Tutorials -> AutoVE"
e-mail sent. Thanks!
E-mail sent also. Thank you for sharing your hard work with all of us.
Let me know if there is anyway I can help you; beer, bottle, something....
Kevin
Here is the link for you.
http://home.insightbb.com/~black02ss/AutoTune.pdf
Updated 07-24-05 10:55 CST
Thank you, down loading now.
Kevin
I am printing it out as I write this. Just finished my AutoTune and set everything back except MAF. I am going to try it without the MAF.
Thanks for putting it all together.
Bill
:D
Thanks Black. My inbox was filling up fast!Quote:
Originally Posted by black02ss
Anytime. I figured it would be easier this way.
Yes, this is greatly appreciated - thanks a bunch!!
Thanks! :D
I would set both the MAF High Freqency Fail 1 {C2901} and the MAF High Freqency Fail Limit {C2902} to "1". This insures that it drops into SD at the 1st failure. FWIW.
Cheers,
joel
Hey Bink, I don't have a {C2902} on my OS. Mine is {C2903} MAF High Frequency Fail Limit. Just a FYI for others if they are using a custom OS. Or if you are like me, just unlug it until you want to re-calibrate it. Much simpler.
Exactly what we needed. My LC-1 is on the way and ive been reading on how to autotune and this will help a bunch. Thanks again!
You're welcome.
85 mm MAF. My IAT is in the MAF :( .Quote:
Originally Posted by black02ss
FWIW -> After 2 years Open Loop-MAF I'm playing with SD-Open Loop. WOW, this is very impressive. My FJO WB reports at 30fps - it's much more stable SD. Huge improvement.
Thanks Again (Thumbs Up emoticon here)!
Cheers,
joel
Mr. Bink - I too have an 85mm MAF on my TA. However, you have some options. If you look on the side of the MAF, there is a very basic pin-out diagram. If you are so inclined, you can use a sewing needle and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the 3 wires associated with the MAF. This way, your MAF is unplugged and you still have your IAT. If you go this route, remember to put a nice thick coat of tape over the exposed ends.
Another other option would be to pull the wire loom back a bit, and cut the 3 wires to the MAF. I personally wouldn't do this to my car, but, it would work.
In my case, my stock set up had a seperate MAF and IAT. I left my IAT in the stock location, in the air lid, and only hooked up the 3 wires for the MAF. I had a feeling I might need to unplug that thing in the future. And the future is now.
Thanks for shareing this with us.
I had it pretty well sorted with lots of trolling through the forums but its good to confirm I was on the right track.
In step F) those of us without a custom operating system will also need to copy {B5913}High Octane Table to Low Octane Spark table Correct?
Cheers
John
Great catch!
I have revised the document with this information.
Shoot me a email TA and I'll revise the PDF so it reflects the changes.
I just checked out your tune info. I set B3605 to 1.13 in all cells and set my ECT to 170 in the Ben filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
What should your STFT's be after the SD Tuning?
Bill
STFT's shouldn't be anything if you are still in open loop.
STFT's don't matter that much. They are reset every time you restart the car. The LTFT's are what's stored in the PCMQuote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS
Thanks. So after I complete the AutoTune my LTFT's should be -5 to 0 or close to this number. Is that right? I am re-doing my SD Tune since my LC-1 defs were not set right and just wanted to know what my LTFT's should be after SD tuning.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Bill
does this document apply to 98's as well?
i was under the impression on a 98 we have to dial in the secondary ve table first and derive the primary from it.
is this not correct?
If you are tuning a 98' you would need to set up two different maps IMO. One for the primary and one for secondary. Adjust both at the same time as this will get you where you need to be after you enable the MAF(if you chose to).
PS. How are you tuning a 98'?
To answer your first question, yes. Autotuning is a concept/series of steps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird
I have not seen a tune from a '98 so I cannot answer anything too specific about tuning them. You may have to improvise a bit to fit this document to your needs.
tuning with the competition. I could not wait any longer for eflilive unfortunately.
but I still have my trusty cable (been an efilive customer since version 5 a few years ago) so according to another post I can still do all the data gathering and crunching with my eflilive and then just flash the changes via Tuners.
I would imagine it would take a good deal of improvising to make that work.
I am glad I waited for FlashScan. I had LS1Edit but wanted/needed a change last year and almost went with HP. I guess with HP you still need Excel.
Bill
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
according to Paul in another post it shouldn't be a huge deal.
my other option is to wait another month or two for 2.0 of tuners.
word on the street is they will have all this functionality in 2.0
Good luck on the wait.
If you dont have the flashscan cable you will have to use your AC pressure switch to log AFR. If the AFR data isnt integrated into your logs you will have quite a task on your hands synching it up
yes I know about good luck on the wait, thus persuing this method ;)
yes I am aware of using the ac pressure switch to log my wideband.
thanks for the heads up though, always appreciated!
Sounds like you are well on your way.
Happy tuning!
Its possible and doesn't take much to set it up, but I would just suck it up and get the entire package. I sold my HPT and came back and it was the best thing I have done in awhile.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbird
if my OS ever becomes fully supported I will certainly be considering it.
until then I gotta be able to tune :)
Is it totally NECESSARY to unplug the MAF? Can't I just leave it there?
Thanks
You should be able to leave it in line, and plugged in. Just set '{C2901} MAF High Frequency Fail 1' to a value of 0.
On hand smoothing the VE table: Should you smooth using the RPM(rows) or the columns(MAP) or both?
Bill
Uplugging the MAF is the only way to 100% sure get into SD mode. Whether or not you want to remove the MAF is totaly up to you. If you are planning on running SD all the time, why leave the MAF in line? It does restrict airflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Highlander
On most cars, you can simply set the fail frequency to 0 to force closed loop. Some cars, mine included, didn't work like that. I had to actually unplug the MAF to get into SD.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tordne
I installed my PLX M-300 this weekend (here are some preliminary notes including a wiring diagram). My car seems happy using the narrowband output so I took a crack at Autotune today. I drove around for about 20 minutes and ended up with the following map: Most of what's in the document seems reasonable to me except for one part. When creating the autotune config, we scale all of the VE entries (both primary and backup in my case) by 15%. Then later we scale them using the average results of the filtered maps. I believe this will undo the 15% for the cells we had good data for but doesn't it leave all the other cells ~15% too high? I would think that you would want to populate all of the "empty" cells with 0.85 so that after we scale the VE tables, cells we didn't collect enough data for are unchanged. An alternate way to do it would be to divide all off the cells by 0.85 and then scale the stock VE tables.
I must be missing something obvious; maybe I should be asking why scale the VE tables by 15%? Is it because we're running open loop and are going to be off and want to insure we're too rich instead of too lean?
One other point, we don't need to worry about zero'ing the LTFTs because that happens as a side effect of flashing the calibration, right?