:?: :? :?:Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
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:?: :? :?:Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
TAQuickness, I'm sorry mate, I was suffering from instant brain fade. :shock:
After running in SDCL mode for a day, two issues persist.
1) On cold start (not hot start though) the engine races at 2500 rpm for 3 secs before settling at the correct starting idle speed.
2) I have a cruise control problem on deceleration with the clutch pressed in. As I approach a stop, I push the clutch in to brake and come to a top. The enging remains at 2200-2500 rpms until about 2-3 secs after I stop and then drops suddenly to the correct idle speed. Also, if I then rev the engine a bit while stopped, it will climb to 2200-2500 and then decay back to idle in 2-3 seconds.
These two symptoms didn't appear until I had driven for approx. 20 minutes after switching back into CL mode.
Suggestions?
http://efilive.com/forum/viewtopic.p...light=followerQuote:
Originally Posted by Patches
Check into setting your throttle cracker & follower tables. That could very well be the problem.
I copied my VE table to the CL MAF tune. The only difference in parameters from the CL SD version is what makes it SD - all other values are identical. The MAF version ran great although the trims were 5-13 negative. So, with the MAF enabled and using the SD VE table, the runaway start and cruise control effect disappeared and it leaned out. This is the original tune I was rich with before the SD tune.
Not a problem man. I frequently suffer from uncontrollable cerebral flatulence ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by joecar
The 20 minutes was probally the idle learn time????Quote:
Originally Posted by Patches
Bill
Possibly. I adjusted the IAC table and both symptoms disappeared.Quote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS
I've reenabled the MAF now and my trims have gone lean - about half as far over as they were before the SD tune. When I revert back to SDCL mode, trims and BEN table are great. Back into MAF mode again and the trims go lean on me with the BEN table holding steady. I'm thinking a MAF recal is now in order.
could always hang the MAF on your garage wall as a decoration :)
That is where my is!!!!! In fact I have two of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Bill
That's all well and good but what to do come emissions time here in Georgia? I don't think a MAFless C5 designed to run a MAF will pass.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
It might pass as long as you do not have any codes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patches
Bill
:D
Do you have to pass a visual inspection? If so that might be a problem. Otherwise, send me copy of your tune (TAQuickness@houstonr.rr.com).Quote:
Originally Posted by Patches
The latest verion of the AutoVE doc can be aquired here http://www.efilive.com/doc/index.html
Nice format.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Bill
GA does not have a visual inspection, just emissions.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Bill
Correct - no visual. But they do the OBDII query and I would imagine a MAF shut off in the PCM would raise a flag on their computer. I have yet to hear from any MAFless owner in an OBDII emissions state claim to pass. I passed my normal emissions test last March but I need to know with sufficient time in case I need to pop the MAF back on and complete adequate driving cycles to satisfy the tester.
TAQ, I'll send you a copy of my tune this morning. TIA.
Btw, awesome AutoVE tutorial. The new format looks great. Thanks for taking the time to create that.
Ed
Gotta thank Blacky and GPMX - they took on the challenge of getting into the "Live" format!
That looks good except when I print it (HP 4200dn), the top of every page is chopped. For example, on page 1 the top 25% of the header, "EFILive AutoVE Tutorial ..." is missing. I suspect there might have been a setup problem when the .doc was converted to pdf.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
hmmmm.... did you save the doc to your PC before you tried to print it?
(just trying to duplicate the problem)
Edit:
I've tried a few different scenarios and couldn't duplicate the problem.
Just to eliminate the obvious, are your margins set right? Papersize?
The version on the download page is pdf, not doc.
Anyway, it looks like the version of acroread I'm using on my FreeBSD box doesn't shrink the page quite enough to fit. And in fact the problem I see when I print from there happens with other .pdf's on the efilive page.
So it looks like the problem is mine and no further adjustment is necessary...
sorry chief - by doc i ment document not *.doc
glad you found the problem
Actually I just found the real problem, the printer setup in acroread on that system was set for a paper size of A4. I changed it to "letter" and now it prints correctly!
Oh no, Rick will be on here complaining about Metric again with comments like that :wink: :wink: :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by leres
Cheers,
Ross
so even if the all the parameters are disable in the tuning tool does the maf still have to be unplugged? i have one with five wires and really dont wanna rig up a separate iat sensor
unpluggin the MAF will 100% guarantee you fall into SD mode. There have been some reports that just the tune settings alone don't always get you into SD mode.
Give it a shot. If you set your tune up right, and you don't get the p0102/3 codes, you aren't in SD and you will need to unplug your MAF.
So do i leave the MIL on to verify the codes? or is that with them offQuote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
I turn the MIL off but the code still pops.
I had to unplug my MAF to get it to go into SD mode. Of course now I removed it completely. Now if I could just find a bellows to go from the TB to my SLP Lid. I have a make shift thing now.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Bill
Just do it like the procharger setups. Find a polished tube and connect it on either end with rubber hose and hose clamps. Should be relatively easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS
FWIW - heres some pics of the SLP smooth bellows I'm using
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359184
Does anyone make a bellow for this application?
Bill
http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS
does the auto tune work for mas air
It works for both means of measuring air MAF and MAF-less.
Actually you disable the MAF to tune so the method is the same for both setups.
i had a question on egr valve any one know if its better to leave it on for gas milage or off looking at the egr valve timing table looks like they put more timing in when its open that makes me think its better to have left on and as for auto tuning i guess it still on after the auto tune set witch if thats how you are going to be driving it i am sure it should be on just didnt know if it was better performance and gas maleage to leave it on thanks
The only thing EGR benefits is emissions.
It is better for performance and mileage to turn it off. Having the EGR on basically dilutes the incoming mixture with spent exhaust gasses making for less efficient combustion.
Of course you would only turn it off for testing purposes right. :nixweiss:
The EGR has at least one performance benefit; by lowering the combustion temperature, it helps reduce knock. So it's a good thing for part throttle acceleration and high load conditions. Also, the EGR system is only in use part of the time. For example, it is disabled during WOT.
I agree with lowering the combustion temperature, for anti knock, but EGR does this by displacing Oxygen molecules. Hence a loss in power either in part throttle or high load conditions. There are far better ways to do this other than using EGR.Quote:
Originally Posted by leres
So I respectfully disagree that EGR has any mileage or performance benefits. It does however do a fantastic job of building up carbon throughout your intake tract. :Throwup:
It's true that when the EGR is operation, exhaust gas displaces some O2. But all this really means is that you need a little more throttle angle let the missing O2 in so you can burn the same amount of fuel. Remember, the ECM tries to keep the A/F ratio constant. We're not at WOT so there is more throttle angle available.
This is a clever way to reduce combustion temperature which reduces knock which we all agree is a performance killer. It has no impact on mileage. It's an elegant solution.