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Thread: Guts Kit installation

  1. #1
    Lifetime Member SS2win's Avatar
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    Default Guts Kit installation Tutorial

    I just got my guts kit and since there is no documentation I thought I'd write some up.

    The tools you need to do the job include a couple Torx screwdrivers, size T25 and T20, a 7/64 and 29/64 drill bit (1/8 and 7/16 work well too) some desoldering wick, a sharp razor or SMD desoldering tools/skillz, and a soldering iron with a fine point tip.

    First step is to disassemble the ECM. Remove the (4) T25 cover screws and (6) T20 screws holding the circuit board in place. Flip the circuit board over and remove the EEPROM (labeled Intel AB28F400B5). THIS IS WHERE YOU NEED TO BE CAREFUL. I found out the hard way that the traces on the circuit board are not very robust and, compared to other boards I've worked with, will pull off the circuit board very easily. Screwing up a solder pad will render your ECM junk or at least difficult to repair. For my second attempt, I opted to remove the EEPROM by cutting the legs with a razor. This is actually an easy way to do it but you destroy the EEPROM in the process. It's not a big deal if you're planning to permanently install the roadrunner.

    While cutting the EEPROM off the circuit board is pretty easy, you want to ensure you don't damage a solder pad. Work slowly and avoid side loads. Place the razor against the body of the EEPROM and gently push straight down being careful not to let the razor touch the circuit board. This will make sure the pressure is directed at the body of the EEPROM and not the solder pad on the circuit board. The legs are made of thin soft metal so it doesn't take much pressure to get the job done. Go slowly until you have all the legs cut.

    Once the EEPROM is cut from the circuit board, use your soldering iron to desolder and pickup the EEPROM legs, then use the soldering iron and some desoldering wick to remove excess solder. The pads should be clean and flat with no excess solder before continuing. Work as fast as possible to avoid overheating the circuit board and possibly damaging a solder pad. I can't stress being careful enough. The solder pads are weak and will lift off the circuit board easily!!

    Now that the EEPROM is removed and the solder pads are clean, carefully place the header on the circuit board paying strict attention to the alignment of the legs. Solder a couple legs down so the header can not move and then solder each leg of the header down. Watch out for solder bridges and loose solder that can short two legs together. Use the desoldering wick to remove solder bridges if they occur. Once the header is installed, you may seat the roadrunner on the header.

    The next step is to drill the case for the roadrunner circuit board support and for the USB cable to exit the case. Accurately drilling for the support may seem tricky at first but I found it's really easy. Use some ink on the end of the support and assemble the ECM temporarily. If you do it right, it will leave a mark as a guide which you can use to accurately drill a 7/64" hole. While you're drilling, drill 29/64" hole in the case for the USB cable. Note that the kit includes two supports of differing height. Be sure to use the correct one so that the roadrunner circuit card is supported properly. For the record, I used the shorter of the two in my 12200411 ECM.

    Now with any luck you can assemble the case, screw down the plastic screw / support and seal the USB cable with silicone sealant.

    I have some pics of the process hosted HERE and I have some video of the installation that I'll post later (could be much later given my track record with video editing ). Let me know if I missed anything or if you have a better method for removing the EEPROM. Also, if you have a spare EEPROM, I need one to fix the first ECM I attempted this install on.

    BTW, thanks to Craig Moates for providing the pics in the above link.
    Last edited by SS2win; March 11th, 2009 at 03:30 PM. Reason: added tutorial to title
    2001 Camaro SS #2020
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  2. #2
    Lifetime Member SS2win's Avatar
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    anyone find this useful?
    2001 Camaro SS #2020
    Stock LS1 w/InconTT | REV Springs | Ti retainers | M6 | McLeod Twin Clutch
    UMI RR K Member | SLP Subframe Connectors | Global West TA | BMR PHB | Metco LCA
    996 Brake Kit| 17" CCW Classics | 17x11 ZR1 Replicas on all four corners

    425@6lbs | ???@12lbs | EFILive Custom OS3 | !MAF | SD
    11.73@12x/1.7 on worn out nittos... yaaawn!

  3. #3
    Lifetime Member GAMEOVER's Avatar
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    Sorry for bringing this thread back, but I found it very informative and plan on purchasing the Guts kit and attempting this......
    2008 2WD Ext.Cab Silverado 1500 6.0 V-MAX E38(L76) & T42(4L70E) MAF Only CL Corvette Servo AFE CAI INNOVATIVE LM-2 WBO2

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  4. #4
    Lifetime Member GAMEOVER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS2win View Post
    anyone find this useful?
    Yes, very useful!!!
    2008 2WD Ext.Cab Silverado 1500 6.0 V-MAX E38(L76) & T42(4L70E) MAF Only CL Corvette Servo AFE CAI INNOVATIVE LM-2 WBO2

    FLASHSCAN V2 & AUTOCAL

  5. #5
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    Great idea with the info...cause as you said ZERO info comes with the guts kit....which I find astonishing.
    Why cut the legs off the flash chip when you can just desolder it?
    The kit I bought had no 'support' screw....or whatever.
    Do you have any pic's of this?
    Also...forget the USB plug/socket which comes with the kit and run a USB-B cable straight to the on-board socket (SAVE YOURSELF ALOT OF GRIEF).
    Howard

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    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


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  6. #6
    Lifetime Member SS2win's Avatar
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    I cut the legs because I don't have the proper desoldering equipment and wound up pulling up a few solder pads by using too much heat/force. The mainboard is not as robust as others I've worked on and it was a shitty surprize when I found out! Cutting the legs ruins the chip but it's really easy to desolder once that's done. Just be sure to cut at the body of the chip and don't cut into the mainboard.

    Alternately, if you don't want to cut the chip there are some good videos on youtube with alternate methods for desoldering surface mount chips. One uses a special solder to bridge the legs together so you can lift it off before the solder cools.
    2001 Camaro SS #2020
    Stock LS1 w/InconTT | REV Springs | Ti retainers | M6 | McLeod Twin Clutch
    UMI RR K Member | SLP Subframe Connectors | Global West TA | BMR PHB | Metco LCA
    996 Brake Kit| 17" CCW Classics | 17x11 ZR1 Replicas on all four corners

    425@6lbs | ???@12lbs | EFILive Custom OS3 | !MAF | SD
    11.73@12x/1.7 on worn out nittos... yaaawn!

  7. #7
    Lifetime Member GAMEOVER's Avatar
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    SS2win, are you going to post the Video? Just wondering... Want to get as much info as possible before I attempt this....
    2008 2WD Ext.Cab Silverado 1500 6.0 V-MAX E38(L76) & T42(4L70E) MAF Only CL Corvette Servo AFE CAI INNOVATIVE LM-2 WBO2

    FLASHSCAN V2 & AUTOCAL

  8. #8
    Lifetime Member SS2win's Avatar
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    I don't think I'll get the video done anytime soon if ever. Well maybe if I get some down time on turkey day....

    You've seen the links in Mr. Prick sig, right? and the link to the page on florida4x4.com in the faq? That should be enough to get you going. It's really not that bad. The worst part is removing the chip. Make sure you get a long enough USB cable and plug it in directly. The only other thing I would try to do differently is find a decent mechanical seal for the cable. Smothering the hole with silicone is just too unprofessional and will most likely fail at some point.
    2001 Camaro SS #2020
    Stock LS1 w/InconTT | REV Springs | Ti retainers | M6 | McLeod Twin Clutch
    UMI RR K Member | SLP Subframe Connectors | Global West TA | BMR PHB | Metco LCA
    996 Brake Kit| 17" CCW Classics | 17x11 ZR1 Replicas on all four corners

    425@6lbs | ???@12lbs | EFILive Custom OS3 | !MAF | SD
    11.73@12x/1.7 on worn out nittos... yaaawn!

  9. #9
    Lifetime Member N0DIH's Avatar
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    Brutal! I used tools at work, but you can use a paint striping heat gun to heat it up, but you must be very careful. Don't be surprised if you are holding the heat gun as high as you can once you get the solder melted to keep it that way. It isn't something to use for the beginner! Cutting the leads IS a good safe way, but of course the old part is toast.....

    Just be careful not to pull the traces off the board with too much heat, it is easy to do with an iron. Especially one too hot.

    Quote Originally Posted by hquick View Post
    Great idea with the info...cause as you said ZERO info comes with the guts kit....which I find astonishing.
    Why cut the legs off the flash chip when you can just desolder it?
    The kit I bought had no 'support' screw....or whatever.
    Do you have any pic's of this?
    Also...forget the USB plug/socket which comes with the kit and run a USB-B cable straight to the on-board socket (SAVE YOURSELF ALOT OF GRIEF).
    I owned a Ford once, ONCE.......

  10. #10
    Lifetime Member N0DIH's Avatar
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    I sent a part number for a chassis through hole USB bulkhead connector. It is a Molex part. Anyone can buy it, weatherproof too. Craig hasn't looked at it yet. I need to finish up my PCM with it to show people.

    Look at these: http://www.molex.com/molex/family/in...20|%20Overview

    Quote Originally Posted by SS2win View Post
    I don't think I'll get the video done anytime soon if
    ever. Well maybe if I get some down time on turkey day....

    You've seen the links in Mr. Prick sig, right? and the link to the page on florida4x4.com in the faq? That should be enough to get you going. It's really not that bad. The worst part is removing the chip. Make sure you get a long enough USB cable and plug it in directly. The only other thing I would try to do differently is find a decent mechanical seal for the cable. Smothering the hole with silicone is just too unprofessional and will most likely fail at some point.
    I owned a Ford once, ONCE.......

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