Guts Kit installation

[SS2win]

I just got my guts kit and since there is no documentation I thought I'd write some up.

The tools you need to do the job include a couple Torx screwdrivers, size T25 and T20, a 7/64 and 29/64 drill bit (1/8 and 7/16 work well too) some desoldering wick, a sharp razor or SMD desoldering tools/skillz, and a soldering iron with a fine point tip.

First step is to disassemble the ECM. Remove the (4) T25 cover screws and (6) T20 screws holding the circuit board in place. Flip the circuit board over and remove the EEPROM (labeled Intel AB28F400B5). THIS IS WHERE YOU NEED TO BE CAREFUL. I found out the hard way that the traces on the circuit board are not very robust and, compared to other boards I've worked with, will pull off the circuit board very easily. Screwing up a solder pad will render your ECM junk or at least difficult to repair. For my second attempt, I opted to remove the EEPROM by cutting the legs with a razor. This is actually an easy way to do it but you destroy the EEPROM in the process. It's not a big deal if you're planning to permanently install the roadrunner.

While cutting the EEPROM off the circuit board is pretty easy, you want to ensure you don't damage a solder pad. Work slowly and avoid side loads. Place the razor against the body of the EEPROM and gently push straight down being careful not to let the razor touch the circuit board. This will make sure the pressure is directed at the body of the EEPROM and not the solder pad on the circuit board. The legs are made of thin soft metal so it doesn't take much pressure to get the job done. Go slowly until you have all the legs cut.

Once the EEPROM is cut from the circuit board, use your soldering iron to desolder and pickup the EEPROM legs, then use the soldering iron and some desoldering wick to remove excess solder. The pads should be clean and flat with no excess solder before continuing. Work as fast as possible to avoid overheating the circuit board and possibly damaging a solder pad. I can't stress being careful enough. The solder pads are weak and will lift off the circuit board easily!!

Now that the EEPROM is removed and the solder pads are clean, carefully place the header on the circuit board paying strict attention to the alignment of the legs. Solder a couple legs down so the header can not move and then solder each leg of the header down. Watch out for solder bridges and loose solder that can short two legs together. Use the desoldering wick to remove solder bridges if they occur. Once the header is installed, you may seat the roadrunner on the header.

The next step is to drill the case for the roadrunner circuit board support and for the USB cable to exit the case. Accurately drilling for the support may seem tricky at first but I found it's really easy. Use some ink on the end of the support and assemble the ECM temporarily. If you do it right, it will leave a mark as a guide which you can use to accurately drill a 7/64" hole. While you're drilling, drill 29/64" hole in the case for the USB cable. Note that the kit includes two supports of differing height. Be sure to use the correct one so that the roadrunner circuit card is supported properly. For the record, I used the shorter of the two in my 12200411 ECM.

Now with any luck you can assemble the case, screw down the plastic screw / support and seal the USB cable with silicone sealant.

I have some pics of the process hosted HERE and I have some video of the installation that I'll post later (could be much later given my track record with video editing ). Let me know if I missed anything or if you have a better method for removing the EEPROM. Also, if you have a spare EEPROM, I need one to fix the first ECM I attempted this install on.

BTW, thanks to Craig Moates for providing the pics in the above link.