As soon as I get a warm day....I get KR. I have seen IAT's as high as 100oC before and it pulls ALOT of timing
Regular driving is always around 50oC or so. I NEED to install my intercooler!
As soon as I get a warm day....I get KR. I have seen IAT's as high as 100oC before and it pulls ALOT of timing
Regular driving is always around 50oC or so. I NEED to install my intercooler!
Howard
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
DUCT TAPE.
IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit
So does anyone know why this stupid truck won't take any advance?
1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7/4L80E, longtubes, 411 w/COS 5, marine cam/intake, Whipple. 91 octane at 6000'.
1997 GMC Sierra K3500 7.4/4L80E, 411 w/COS 3, Whipple, small cam.
2004 Corvette Z06 with longtubes.
There are multiple Spark PIDS modifiers you can log.
1). Real Knock. Usually only pulls 4 degrees when in PE Mode.
2.) Burst knock..It will pull timing. You can zero it out.
3). Traction control. You are going to 100% throttle pretty quick, but I see a lag in your vehicle speed. Are you disabling any ABS/Traction Control etc? That will pull spark.
4). Anything ridiculous like your AC on? It should disable with WOT, but it can pull spark due to the AC compressor kicking on.
Your IAT was 133F temp and you ad 3 degrees of timing being. Either Traction Control, or Abuse Management is not configured properly.
Last edited by WeathermanShawn; February 9th, 2010 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Grammer
Burst knock retard, I just googled it and disabled it. My only options were the lo/hi MAP values to enable it. Hopefully, with this ECU's lack of AE that won't be an issue, but we'll see. . . I really hope someone can chime in and at least tell me if Abuse mode and all that other garbage has been disabled. The only mention of traction control that is in this PCM is the minimum advance when it's active, but no other parameters. This PCM is gay, it's like only half of the crap on there can be changed. I left some TM on the upshifts, but as far as I can see that should be it. So do I just need to accept the fact that this will pull 4 degrees in PE mode and command a few extra to make sure I get what I want in the end?
1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7/4L80E, longtubes, 411 w/COS 5, marine cam/intake, Whipple. 91 octane at 6000'.
1997 GMC Sierra K3500 7.4/4L80E, 411 w/COS 3, Whipple, small cam.
2004 Corvette Z06 with longtubes.
Come on guys, I'm begging you. I know someone knows, check this out: IAT's are around freezing, coolant 194 (180 stat will be in on Sat), what TM do I still have active to steal 2.5 degrees of timing? Later on in the log it steals a mysterious 3.5 at an RPM nowhere near the shift point. This is absolutely slaughtering my truck, I've searched my ass off and can't find what I'm after. I've even attached my tune again which seems to change about 5 times a day.
Last edited by Supercharged111; March 26th, 2009 at 05:26 PM.
1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7/4L80E, longtubes, 411 w/COS 5, marine cam/intake, Whipple. 91 octane at 6000'.
1997 GMC Sierra K3500 7.4/4L80E, 411 w/COS 3, Whipple, small cam.
2004 Corvette Z06 with longtubes.
Don't know if it's just me but when I open your log and tune together I get a VIN mismatch message which makes it difficult to track the source of lost timing.
Tune says auto, scan says manual???
Howard
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
DUCT TAPE.
IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit
I've always gotten that VIN mismatch as well, don't know how to fix it. I'm afraid if I start changing VIN's around I'll waste my licenses.
1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7/4L80E, longtubes, 411 w/COS 5, marine cam/intake, Whipple. 91 octane at 6000'.
1997 GMC Sierra K3500 7.4/4L80E, 411 w/COS 3, Whipple, small cam.
2004 Corvette Z06 with longtubes.
At this point it is apparent you are getting some legitimate knock, along with your mysterious loss of timing.
It always helps to have all of the basics and modifications of your vehicle in your signature. Is it an auto? Your tune says manual. Are you supercharged? Your user name says yes, your tune says no.
When you get to the point of changing your tune multiple times and "you do no not how it is changing", it is probably best to just reload the correct stock tune and start over. I would just re-organize your tune, logs, and clarify what vehicle and tune you are using. If you I recall you are using 87 octane gas. Why not 91? Do you have a wideband?
It is just possible that you are running quite lean and with lower octane gas the timing being pulled is legitimate knock.
Last edited by WeathermanShawn; February 9th, 2010 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Grammer
Have you tried logging the pids whose names start with EST_ (I don't know if they are supported by your PCM or not)... these will show where/why timing is being pulled.