Please help!

[vortecyota]

I'm on the last stretch of my toyota build, but have come to a sudden halt. I have an 01 5.3 just freshened up, LS6 cam, 918 springs, and a Radix. I have just got the engine running but only on 5 cylinders. 2,6,and 8 header primaries are cool, while the other 5 are scalding hot. I have voltage on the pink wires on all injectors as well as coil packs.I checked continuity on inj. control wires to the corresponding pcm pin locations as well as coil low ref., ground, ans control wires. All wires are pinned in the correct location according to my wire diagrams. The spark plugs are firing, yet come out of the head wet. I pulled the valve covers and the rockers seem to be moving fine. Finally I did a compression test and it passed. Anyone have any suggestions to try next?

[mr.prick]

If the plugs are wet then I doubt they are firing.
Maybe bad coil(s) or wiring needs to be checked.

[vortecyota]

I would have to agree with you, but when I pull the plugs and hook them to the plug wires and turn the engine over, they have a strong looking blue/white spark. I have triple checked the wiring and everything is perfectly in order (continuity tests to verify correct pin location and integrity of the wires). A guy on PT.net suggested a C.A.S.E. relearn, but I could not seem to be able to make it do it's thing? Plus I don't understand the science behind that procedure or what the requirements are for it to run? Thank you for your time!

[Mr. P.]

Well start with the fundamentals - do you have any SES codes or MIL lamp? I would swap a known good working component to a problem cylinder, i.e. take the #1 plug wire and swap with #2 and see if the problem "travels" to the other side of the motor; then repeat the process with the spark plug, then the coil, etc. The fact that #4 is hot is to me a coincidence, sounds like you have a problem in general with the passenger-side of the motor, if I didn't know better I would say the ignition ground was bad on that side??? I dunno. OK here might be an easier diagnostic test, just swap the entire coil pack assembly between the passenger's and driver's bank and see if the problems move to the drivers' side... The idea here is that you need to troubleshoot using "known good" components.

Mr. P.

[vortecyota]

I have swapped the plugs and wires to no avail. I built the harness myself and you have me interested in the grounds. I terminated all 4 pcm grounds as well as both coil subharness grounds on top of the blower. Now that I think more about it the only thing tying the blower to the engine is the manifold bolts and the blower seems to have a clear coat on it. I did check continuity from the individual coil connectors to the frame and only had 0.12 ohms of resistance, but that was just a static test as the engine was not running at the time. I'll look at that a little closer tonight. Do you think I need to be concerned with a C.A.S.E relearn? Thanks again for your time!

[vortecyota]

Oh yea, I do have some DTCs for the maf as I have not yet wired it and some trans DTCs, also needs to be wired.

[mr.prick]

Are you using a stock tune?
If there are certain DTC processing enablers that can not be turned off.

[Mr. P.]

I have not gotten into swapping PCMs, but my understanding is that if a CASE relearn is needed then the motor won't fire at all. ???? I would definitely get an engine grounding schematic and ground everything where the factory designed including the grounds from the heads to the firewall, because the electronics on these motors are known to be succeptible to their own ground interference. Do you know for sure if the passenger-side coil pack is good? If not swap the coil packs to rule that out. Make sure the passenger coil pack is well grounded to the valve cover.

[vortecyota]

I am using the stock tune right now. I just installed the factory injectors, took the belt off and disabled theft, all so I can trailer this thing to the exhaust shop to run my exhaust and coolant pipes to the radiator in the bed (mud truck). If I can ever gat all 8 to fire and get it to and back from the exhaust shop, then I can dive ino some IFR and VE for the first time. It seems like the coil packs and related circuits are all good because the plugs fire when I lay them on the header and turn the engine over, unless they are maybe not firing once installed into the head and having to arc through compression? Plus I checked ALL related circuits with my multi-meter. Tonight Ill try running a jumper from my grounds straight to the battery( in the bed). Then I'll try swapping the coil packs as an assembly side to side. Any other suggestions, I am way behind schedule on this build and it pretty much consumes my whole life.

[joecar]

Hi vortecyota,

It seems that you have 3 injectors that are running on... either possibly due to short-circuit(s) in the wiring, or due to leaky injectors (the pintle not closing).

Move those 3 injectors to different locations and see if those plugs show up wet.