Dyno log and tune

[Slowrc]

Here is the scan and tune for my 98 Z28. tr230 cam ,home cleaned up heads,3200vig stall, pacesetters, 3"duals, slp lid, and stock 4l60e and 3.23 rear. Looks like I have some work to do!

[5.7ute]

Not too much work at first glance. Knock some timing & fuel out of it (Both commanded AFR & your airmass estimation model) Get your Bens within at least 2% then start throwing some timing back at it to find MBT.

[Slowrc]

Thanks,

Are you saying I am close enough to drop some fuel out of commanded pe and my ve tables and retest, or should I go through the auto ve process and disable the maf. I also logged a stumble from a red light that show 15.20 on the wideband and 14 KR this morning. I am guessing thats a lean spike.

thanks again!

[Slowrc]

I guess I REALLY need a ls6 intake!!!!

[WeathermanShawn]

Not bad. Good work.

Yes, that LS6 Intake will help. I read a post on another site () about the LS6 intake does not like spark advance over 25 degrees. Thats not a bad thing, just something to consider. It might help solve your slight KR situation too (lower spark advance at WOT).

If you are staying MAF, you can work on it to affect fueling. But it never hurts to have a solid VE Table, especially if you can do it on the dyno.

Congrats on your build and dyno results.

[joecar]

I think you can benefit from doing AutoVE... do timing as 5.7ute said above.

[ScarabEpic22]

Yes, wow 12.227 commanded AFR and 10.92 actual! 10.92 is waaay rich for a N/A motor, should be about 12-12.8 depending on what you want to shoot for.

Good thing is you already have the wideband, so AutoVE'ing will be easy! (Or try WeatherManShawn's new method...)

[5.7ute]

Thanks,

Are you saying I am close enough to drop some fuel out of commanded pe and my ve tables and retest, or should I go through the auto ve process and disable the maf. I also logged a stumble from a red light that show 15.20 on the wideband and 14 KR this morning. I am guessing thats a lean spike.

thanks again!

When getting a baseline to start on the dyno, I command around 12.5 AFR at WOT with no more than 25 degrees timing. Then set timing a bit lower around 3-5000 rpm.(Near estimated peak torque)
Do a couple of pulls adjusting the VE table (or maf if still enabled)to get commanded AFR & actual AFR to match. Then slowly add timing until either torque shows no increase, or you get knock. (If you get knock pull a few degrees from these points)
Then you can start leaning out PE some more & see if torque again starts to increase(Timing may take a bit more tweaking at this point). Where knock was evident earlier you can try enrichen some to see if this will give a bit more resistance to knock.
Going in this manner should keep you safe from engine damage.

[Slowrc]

Thanks guys. I logged some on the street and found My 12.2 commanded shows up at 12.48 on the street. I never run 3rd gear out like I did on the dyno. 140mph !!! twice the speed limit ya know. Why would second gear be so close and third richen up so much???

Thanks again for all the help!

[WeathermanShawn]

Mmm. I had that problem before...

Something about load. and your RPM and MAP VE Values are obviously different in 2nd or even 3rd vs 4th gear, as are your MAF values (if MAF-Enabled).

You have to hit every cell (and MAF value) in every gear to get it right. I know its a hassle, but different gears will show different loads and varying MAP and RPM's. Welcome to tuning...

Keep at it though. You will be happy with the end result!