"It shows up in f8,9,10,11. Shows in f8 with a red x through it. No problem setting up a Map."Originally Posted by Blacky
Anything else to check?
"It shows up in f8,9,10,11. Shows in f8 with a red x through it. No problem setting up a Map."Originally Posted by Blacky
Anything else to check?
Maybe one other thing to check would be to make sure you can export it using the File->Export option.Originally Posted by jfpilla
Paul
I'll do it when I get my tuner. Thanks.Originally Posted by Blacky
I've led you all astray - you cannot set up a PID like I described above.
You must use a calculated PID - I will adjust the description above...
Regards
Paul
It sets up fine in EFI. Of course I can't test it until I get my Flashscan.Originally Posted by Blacky
2003 red vert
Mods:
LS7 crate engine, wet sump, 24xx reluctor
LPE 100mm MAF
Vararam, cold air intake and bridge
RPM Level 6/4L60e trans
3.42 gears
Yank SS3600
1-7/8" AR headers
Z06 exhaust
470rwhp 437rwtq
1/8th mi-1.526-60'-6.862-1/8th-@100.74mph
Because of the limits placed on my grey matter on a daily basis I can't spend the time I'd like trying to understand how you guys are doing things. So I did it my own way which should work for other tech challenged people like myself.....
LM-1... Load the program in your PC connect the LM-1 via the serial cable and select AUX 1 on the upper tab in the program screen.
Click the AFR dot..
Set .5 Volt -----equals 10 AFR
Set 4.5 Volts --equals 18 AFR
Then click the program button.
Now instead of having to program EFI Live use PID's for the Tech Edge. It already has the formula that you need AFR=(EXT.AD2)*2+9
EXT.AD2 is for the 3 wire plug ( Correct me if I'm wrong) EXT.AD2 is for the 2 wire plug.. right...
Now the middle of the 3 wire orange plug is the ground and needs to be routed to pin 4 on the under dash plug.
Now all you have to do is select the Tech Edge Calculated PID for your Dash Pages and Maps and you should have correct AFRs...
Now don't start your vehicle yet. The LM-1 will have to Calibrate first (or you can take out the 02 sensor to calibrate)
Once this is done you'll have accurate AFR readings. Mine are spot on..
Dennis
All good/correct info except for the plugs.Originally Posted by MN C5
The 2 pin plug is for a k-type thermocouple - it won't read an analog voltage.
The 3 pin plug is for both AD1 and AD2.
Pin C (nearest to the 2 pin plug) is AD2
Pin D (center pin) is common ground.
Pin E (furthest from the 2 pin plug) is AD1
I have a question about the grounds. My WB is powered from my Cigarette lighter. It is my understanding that the ODB2 port is powered on that circuit.
Do they share the same grounds or do I still need to go to pin 4
As it stands, this thread is monsterously confusing. May I suggest either a new thread for the new method or deleting the following discussions about the old method (since the examples given no longer scan)?
Also, if I've set up my calculated PID for my PLX formulas (I've done this before on a stand alone), what else needs to be done to hook up the AFR into the scanner tool (besides the wiring )
Yes it is confusing. I will redo both WO2 posts (linear and non-linear).Originally Posted by turboberserker
You'll need to select the EXT.AD1 and/or EXT.AD2 PIDs to log the raw voltage signal(s).
You'll need to select the PLX calculated PIDs you created in order to view the AFR.
You'll need to start logging to capture the data.
That's all.
Regards
paul