Reckon that might explain the bogging/jerking I feel when I first start off from a dead stop. Figured it was just that I didn't quite remember how to drive a standard (been years, just had the car a week or so) but I suppose KR would do it.Originally Posted by WeathermanShawn
So new NBO2s are first up, or the wideband?
Edit: or is there something I need to do about the KR first? This is with high-grade (93 octane, plus all gas in Dallas County is 10% ethanol)
Last edited by derekf; July 20th, 2010 at 11:46 AM.
As long as your tune is stock, then at least Spark should drop to Low-Octane as determined by the Adaptive Spark feature. I would never say to not worry about KR, but I think fueling is #1. You could always copy your Low-Octane Spark over to High-octane until you get it figured out..Reckon that might explain the bogging/jerking I feel when I first start off from a dead stop. Figured it was just that I didn't quite remember how to drive a standard (been years, just had the car a week or so) but I suppose KR would do it.
Yea, I wasn't sure if you were just spinning your tires, or if ABS (Traction Control) was kicking in. I say that, because it looks like your Spark dropped to 2.5 degrees....Very odd..
So new NBO2s are first up, or the wideband?
Wow, I really hope it is not truly an either or. Your narrow-bands probably need replacing, but I would opt for a wideband no matter what. At least you will be able to accurately determine your AFR, both at stoich and WOT.
Edit: or is there something I need to do about the KR first? This is with high-grade (93 octane, plus all gas in Dallas County is 10% ethanol)
1. Get Wideband.
2. Get narrowbands.
3. Get LTFT's/AFR accurate.
4. Work on Spark.
Here's where the stream of profanity comes in.
I've had a new LC-1 sitting in a box in my garage for five years now. Finally installed it in something... and it doesn't work. Used the instructions at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...1_tutorial.pdf and it won't do the free air calibration and I can't connect via LM Programmer. I'll be writing a support email next.
However, I also installed new O2 sensors today and took new logs (even though I didn't have a functional wideband, grumble grumble).
derekf_03.efi
derekf_02.efi
Not sure if I'm wasting my time taking new logs, but I suppose at least y'all can verify that the new sensors are working better than the old ones. I did go through the steps in the calc.ve tutorial and I think that I got the PIDs right. It doesn't look like I'm getting the serious KR off-idle that was in the last log, anyway.
(edit: maybe you can't tell me that the new O2 sensors are working better, since the HO2 PIDs aren't in this latest log)
(edit2: GM.DYNAIRTMP_DMA isn't a "valid PID". Is there something I need to be doing to make it valid? Also, somehow I lost MAFFREQ as a PID so it's not logged. Might mean that these logs are completely useless)
Last edited by derekf; July 24th, 2010 at 12:53 PM.
Sounds like you just need to slow down and try one thing at a time.
There are numerous tuners on this board who can help you with connecting the wideband (not my best talent). Then you probably just need some help in validating your PIDS and selecting the correct ones. You can always verify them prior to logging.
One hint on PIDS, especially DYNAIRTMP.DMA..keep all units in metric. That includes your MAF Airflow..make it g/s. As far as I can tell there is no reason DYNAIRTMP.DMA should not be valid for your OS.
When you take a day off or two, try another log. With your logging of the O2's and MAF Frequency, one can tell a lot. As it is now, you look like your entire MAF Calibration Table will end up being an overall +10%. But, we need more logging.
You might want to start a separate thread for some of your issues. Hope that helps.
derekf,
How is your LC-1 wired up...?
Where do the black and white wires go...?
Logs are always good... don't assume new parts will work (I've had my share of faulty new parts).
Add these pids when you next log:
HO2S11
HO2S21
TP
Black wires go through the button and LED (in parallel) to ground.
White is connected to input D.
Will add those PIDs to next log.
New logs.
WB still not working right (separate thread for that), but I've got the NBs and MAFFREQ in this one.
derekf_25Jul10_01.efi
derekf_25Jul10_02.efi
Well, your O2's seem to be switching a little slower than normal, but the amplitude looks fine. Mine are the rear Corvette type..I have them right after the header collector and before the cats.
I posted several attachments as an example.
If you simply copy with labels (MAF vs LTFTBEN MAP) and then paste and multiply with labels against your MAF Calibration Table, you can see how easy it would be to calibrate your MAF. Very easy. See the CALC.VE Tutorial in my signature for more information.
I just looked at your log very briefly. If I see something else I will let you know..
Thanks for all the help, Shawn and Joe.
Should there be anything done with the MAF frequencies less than 2500rpm? Even if I turn off the empty cell hiding, there's no data in that map for thost RPMs.
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