Need help with LTFT

[voda1]

Searched not finding what I need. I've done AutoVE and AutoMaf, now I want to follow up with LTFT. My problem is need to use narrow bands because I don't have extra bung for WBO2. Can anybody point me to thread on how it's done?

[Gregs]

why don't you use your wb to simulate the nb sensors? thats what i did and its worked great for me.

[joecar]

+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

[n8dogg]

+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

So wait, you can do this VS installing the wideband into the exhaust stream? Please explain, I too have the LC-1, just waiting for headers to do the bung install, but I want to use the wideband in the mean time.

[n8dogg]

+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

So wait, you can do this VS installing the wideband into the exhaust stream? Please explain, I too have the LC-1, just waiting for headers to do the bung install, but I want to use the wideband in the mean time.

[voda1]

Updated my signature with the wide band am using now - NGK-AFX. Had 2 LC-1 fail. Maybe next summer might consider a LM-1, but for now would like to finish fuel trims.

If one narrow band fails, does that force open loop?

[n8dogg]

+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

Hey Joe,
Can you go a little more into details with this? I have the LC-1, and like I said, am waiting for long tubes to weld the bung in. But if I can use the WB in my NB location and piggy back the NB off the WB. I will do that ASAP.

Is it as easy as splicing into the NB harness with the NB connected? Or do I need to remove the NB completely?

*edit* There is no green wire off my LC-1. Just red, blue, yellow, brown, black, white.

[joecar]

Hey Joe,
Can you go a little more into details with this? I have the LC-1, and like I said, am waiting for long tubes to weld the bung in. But if I can use the WB in my NB location and piggy back the NB off the WB. I will do that ASAP.

Is it as easy as splicing into the NB harness with the NB connected? Or do I need to remove the NB completely?

*edit* There is no green wire off my LC-1. Just red, blue, yellow, brown, black, white.

Get an old NB and cut the wires so you have the connector in your hand...

Then, splice this connector to your LC-1 as follows:
- NB signal hi -> LC-1 yellow,
- NB signal lo -> LC-1 green or LC-1->white.

(there's a thread here showing the pinouts)

Make sure to insulate the splices.

Remove the NB from the header/manifold, and insert your LC-1 with the made-up NB connector

(i.e. the WB completely replaces the NB)

Your LC-1 is already connected to vehicle, right (see quote below)...?

LC-1 red -> switched and fused power/battery,
LC-1 blue -> battery ground,

Also:
LC-1 SERIAL IN <- terminator 2.5mm stereo style plug,
LC-1 SERIAL OUT -> 2.5mm DB9 cable -> null modem adapter -> DB9 RJ12 cable -> FlashScan V2.

Note:
LC-1 black is not ground... this is the positive side of the LED/pushbutton; LC-1 white is the negative side of the LED/pushbutton.

[joecar]

n8,

See posts #50 and #66: showthread.php?564-LC-1-widband-hook-up

Your connector may look different... is this for your 2002 Z06 (did I get the right year)...? I'll look up the pinouts.

[joecar]

Be careful, absolutely do not allow the yellow or brown wires to short to anything.