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Thread: Wiring L92 with O2 sensors

  1. #21
    Lifetime Member 68problemchild's Avatar
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    OK guys. I have all this stuff. Wide band on the pass side, NB O2 stock on the drivers side. Just need a quick walk through on initial baselining. I put these in open air then reset them using the V2? thanks!!!! Also do I tell the V2 this is an LC-1 type sensor on the pass side?

    This is from above.................then all you need is the orange null-modem adapter show here (under $3.00): serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2

    You use the null-modem adapter to connect the LC-1 serial cable to the V2 serial cable.

    LC-1 SERIAL OUT --> LC-1 serial cable --> null-modem adapter --> V2 serial cable --> V2
    LC-1 SERIAL IN <-- 2.5mm terminator

    And then on the V2 LCD, you have to go into Options and configure the serial port for LC-1 wideband. [/I][/SIZE]
    Last edited by 68problemchild; September 26th, 2010 at 02:26 PM.

  2. #22
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68problemchild View Post
    OK guys. I have all this stuff. Wide band on the pass side, NB O2 stock on the drivers side. Just need a quick walk through on initial baselining. I put these in open air then reset them using the V2? thanks!!!! Also do I tell the V2 this is an LC-1 type sensor on the pass side?

    ...
    With the LC-1 you need to do two things:

    1. heater calibration:
    - un-plug the sensor from the LC-1 controller, and power up the controller for a moment;
    - remove power, and re-plug the sensor back into the controller;
    - the next time the controller is powered up it calibrates itself to the sensor's heater (allow it about 30-60 seconds to do this).
    Do this anytime you replace the sensor.

    2. free air calibration:
    - expose the sensor to free/clean air;
    - power up LC-1 controller;
    - connect V2 to vehicle OBD-II port,
    - on V2 go F2 Scan Tool->F1 Data Logging->F3 Display WO2 and select the controller;
    - press the power button (circle with vertical bar, overlays the zero key),
    - it asks "Do free air calibration?", press the Yes button (allow about 30 seconds to finish),
    - when finished, on the display you should see 20%,
    - remove power from LC-1 and allow it to cool down;
    - re-install sensor.
    Do this periodically every few months.


    You do those two steps on the LC-1 wideband... you don't/can't do those to the NBO2.


    Before you can do step 2. you need to configure your V2, see post #8 of this thread: showthread.php?14351-BBL-PIDs-V2

  3. #23
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Do you have the 2.5mm blank plug terminator...?

  4. #24
    Lifetime Member 68problemchild's Avatar
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    Thanks. No "COM in" or "COM out" on my screen but it does have "Com port" which I set to "Wide O2". The rest is set as you described. I do have the orange null modem adapter if this answers your latter question.

    On the V2 LCD/keypad go F4 Options->F1 Setup->F1 Edit Settings and set the following:
    Ser PIDs -> YES
    COM In -> Wide-O2
    COM Out -> Wide-O2
    WO2 Type -> Innovate
    WO2 Format -> Both
    WO2 Data -> AFR & EQ

  5. #25
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    What about the 2.5mm blank stereo plug/terminator that came with your LC-1...? This need to be plugged into the LC-1's SERIAL IN.

  6. #26
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68problemchild View Post
    Thanks. No "COM in" or "COM out" on my screen but it does have "Com port" which I set to "Wide O2". The rest is set as you described. I do have the orange null modem adapter if this answers your latter question.

    On the V2 LCD/keypad go F4 Options->F1 Setup->F1 Edit Settings and set the following:
    Ser PIDs -> YES
    COM In -> Wide-O2
    COM Out -> Wide-O2
    WO2 Type -> Innovate
    WO2 Format -> Both
    WO2 Data -> AFR & EQ
    COM In/Out is from the older firmware...

  7. #27
    Lifetime Member 68problemchild's Avatar
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    W02 not found. At the top it says "Innovoate(1)WO2" not found. "Innovate (2) WO2" not found.

    Is it possible I have the wrong bank?

    Current setup


    LC-1 to "out" to Cable to null modem to cable to V2. Put stub plug in "IN" stereo plug.
    Hey, Tach is working though!!!! Woo hooo.
    Thanks.

  8. #28
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Did you set comm type to wideband...?

    Are you using an actual null modem adapter (it must say "null modem" on it) and not just an adapter...?

    Try setting WO2 Format to single.

    Is V2 plugged into vehicle ODB-II port...?

    Is LC-1 being powered up...?

    Is the stub plug all the way into SERIAL IN (sometimes it sticks and needs an extra push to get it all the way in, put a small dab of oil on it).

  9. #29
    Lifetime Member 68problemchild's Avatar
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    Did you set comm type to wideband...? "Cpm Port" is set to "Wide O2"
    Are you using an actual null modem adapter (it must say "null modem" on it) and not just an adapter...? Will verfiy. Its the one you all spec'd in.
    Try setting WO2 Format to single. Will try.

    Is V2 plugged into vehicle ODB-II port...? yes.

    Is LC-1 being powered up...? How can you tell? I did not install the little led light.

    Is the stub plug all the way into SERIAL IN (sometimes it sticks and needs an extra push to get it all the way in, put a small dab of oil on it). Will verify.

    Thank you.

  10. #30
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    It might be good to connect the LED.

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