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Thread: Idle Tips & Tricks

  1. #51
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Paste (i.e. no multiply).

  2. #52
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    Thanks Joe. I'll try that. It's pretty good driving now but I've learned so much lately ill keep trying things
    2000 NBM trans am.
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    Rmvb 4l80 with transbrake, 8" FTI converter
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  3. #53
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aint Skeered View Post
    Thanks Joe. I'll try that. It's pretty good driving now but I've learned so much lately ill keep trying things
    Good job

    I find I'm learning new things about this all the time.

  4. #54
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    can someone point me to weatrhermans "idle tutorial"? for the life of me i cant find it. (iv seen sspddmons.)

  5. #55
    Lifetime Member ChipsByAl's Avatar
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    https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...in-single-log)

    This is his work. You can start here. There is good info in this thread.
    Al
    "Trash that carb and get Injected!"

  6. #56
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Al, thanks

  7. #57
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    Just want to chime in here and add 2c, hope it helps someone else.

    Iv been scratching my head for the last 3 weeks desperately trying to idle tune my 6L with 92mm cable throttle running the LSA TVS 1900 blower with the LS1b pcm. After following the idle tips and tricks tutorial and hacking multiple tunes I still wasn't getting any results. No matter how much I hacked my idle settings mentioned in the tutorial or how many times I performed RAFIG nothing had any direct influence on my idle tune quality and it would stall frequently. That was until I modified my IAC effective area (B4403). If you change your TB or IAC motor from stock nothing seems to work correctly if your IAC effective area is not close. Maybe this is mentioned somewhere but I seemed to have overlooked it.

    Great forum, thanks for the info and contributors!

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffro View Post
    If you change your TB or IAC motor from stock nothing seems to work correctly if your IAC effective area is not close. Maybe this is mentioned somewhere but I seemed to have overlooked it.
    It was mentioned somewhere in this forum, and there also has been talk about it in other tuning forums... but any talk about it has always been somewhat vague. I remember reading comments like "you need to line up all your airflows" and "you need to shift your IAC effective area table", but I can't remember anyone posting an actual method.

  9. #59
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    Well this explains why the RAFIG didn't work for me, it spit out lower than stock numbers the last time I tried it. Going to try this once I fix the fire hazard fuel leak. Can someone clarify why effective IAC area matters on a cable throttle when you go up in size? I did bump the 3500 up to an 85mm TB and it idles all over, but I'm pretty sure that's just because I haven't touched the idle from the mishmash crap I dropped in there in the first place. If you put the stock IAC back into any TB is really shouldn't matter, right? I realize the larger blade may flow more at idle, but then again its bypass hole might be smaller too (haven't checked). I can totally understand why a drive by wire car would be affected by this. Or is the effective IAC area only applicable to DBW cars?
    1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7/4L80E, longtubes, 411 w/COS 5, marine cam/intake, Whipple. 91 octane at 6000'.
    1997 GMC Sierra K3500 7.4/4L80E, 411 w/COS 3, Whipple, small cam.
    2004 Corvette Z06 with longtubes.

  10. #60
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    The new TB has different cross-section area on its IAC passage...

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