Are you mounting it permenently and using a single purpose sensor for the WB or other?
Are you mounting it permenently and using a single purpose sensor for the WB or other?
2000 C5 Coupe, 6M, Callies/Mahle stroked LS7 (441), Blackwing, Halltech, LS3 intake, 90mm Shaner TB, ported L92 heads, FAST 50# inj, not too much cam, Kooks 1 7/8" headers , 3" catless mid pipes, Z TIs, track suspension, , 3:90 rear, EFI V2, LM-2, etc.
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LM-2 EFILIve package with TAQ -sLM2 V-2 serial cable> Package deals
The LM-1 needs 12v, not 5v. It send the 5v out of the LM-1 to the sensor itself. If this is for a C5, use the Aux power in the passenger side fuse box. It's behind the floor mat and a little door in the footwell. There is are black, orange and red wires under there, I believe. Black is ground, and the two others are switched and constant power. Use a multimeter to test which one is which.
I put a cigarette lighter plug on mine and just plug into the lighter or powerpoint.
\"You Can Never Have Enough Horsepower\"
Took a better look at the LM-1 instructions. It comes with a power cord to plug into the cigarette lighter for 12V power. Since I don't plan on permanently installing the WB this will be my power source for it. However, if I decide to leave it mounted in the exhaust I'll have to find a switched 5V source to keep it heated when I'm not using it for tuning. What's a good place to get power if I decide to go this route?
Not to avoid your question but first I suspect you will not want to run it when not tuning as you will need that extra bung and will need to keep it hooked up to 12V. The 5 volts really only comes into play if you want the WB sensor to also output to the PCM thus replacing the OEM and becoming dual purpose. That setup has not has not worked well for most folks.Originally Posted by VetPet
2000 C5 Coupe, 6M, Callies/Mahle stroked LS7 (441), Blackwing, Halltech, LS3 intake, 90mm Shaner TB, ported L92 heads, FAST 50# inj, not too much cam, Kooks 1 7/8" headers , 3" catless mid pipes, Z TIs, track suspension, , 3:90 rear, EFI V2, LM-2, etc.
PowrMax Performance
100 mm PowrMAF
LM-2 EFILIve package with TAQ -sLM2 V-2 serial cable> Package deals
Also a hint to make sure you power the LM-1 unit up everytime you start your engine otherwise it could lead to premature WO2 failure.
That's why a lot of people have purchased the simpler (and cheaper) LC-1 unit as it must be wired to a switchable 12V source... it kind of eliminates the often forgetful task of you having to remember to turn your LM-1 on.
EDIT: didn't read Joecar's same message.
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